But you did adjust the float level during the rebuild?

 

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The vacuum actuator worked when tested. I have never gotten that much throttle to see them crack open when revving it or driving it. I rebuilt the card because they where DUMPING fuel even at idle. something was stuck in the Needle in the back. Once I rebuild the whole carb, blew it all out, and put it back together no more smoke at all, and secondarys are not dumping or dripping.

I did not, as i said the carb says its non adjustable, does not have the normal adjustments either.

 

Even Holley's with no external adjustment have adjustable floats and they are set with the float bowl off during a rebuild. The float tab is bent and set to a specific number of drop.
Did you have an instruction sheet to follow during the rebuild?

 

I did have a sheet but did not talk about float level... and when i googled it said "A Holley 600 non-adjustable float carburetor (like the popular 4160 models) has factory-set floats with Tru-Set needle/seats, designed for optimal fuel levels with 3-6 psi of pressure, meaning no external adjustment is needed for normal operation" I missed the other part about bending it to a measurement... I can pull bowls and redo. But i don't think sounds like its fuel starving. But what do i know haha. I am learning on this one ha

 

What is the carburetor list number found on the front of the choke airhorn?

 

80457-8

1289

 

Float is adjusted by bending the tang, with bowl upside down float should be parallel to bowl top.

 

OK, so had a delay an older buddy got me scared on my adjustment of the rockers, so I did not touch car for a week or so, till he came buy. Re-did the rocker arm adjustment using his method. Pulling the push rods up and down and slowly getting to zero lash, then 3/4 turn. This vs what I found online was tighten until push rods don't spin, then 3/4. not too much different but better saftey margin for not collapsing a lifter.

So with the plugs out for rotating motor, also did a compression check. 165-170, with a single 175.. so bottom end seems good too. BUT HERE is where second set of eyes comes in as i hand him plugs as I am removing them...... I normally always gap plugs for my high HP toys, turbo ski, and boats, and blower C7 or C8s. This car with my dad looking over my shoulder he handed me plugs and I put them in.back when we first got it..... just old car. I guess I did not inspect plugs.... we found 2 of them with the electrode touching the plug... #2 and #7.... So little to no spark....... SO fixed the plugs, gapped them all. She runs with no miss. can rev it out and go down road smoothly.

There is a 1700 ish transition that part throttle you can feel but stab it and runs, or cruise across it runs too. My older buddy's advice, that feels like a carb fine tune adjustment. My dad thinks it runs good now, says I am just used to modern stuff its good haha. So she is firing and running and driving now. Oil change, and fix brake lights. Then on to power steering leak, and making the headlights not slowly rise when driving it.

I told both my friend and my dad. That will be a life lesson, bet i never DONT inspect new plugs with a OCD eye haha. I am normally very OCD, **** ect. hell, when doing the rocker adjustment, they say do it 8 times 90 degrees each, I did that then checked them at 15-45 a bunch of random checks with by muddy making fun of me.... I am knowen for over doing and over thinking, so something so small being a issue the whole time is annoying but things happen.

Lessoned learned haha.


SO brake lights, they worked. Then with the starters new Hot lead, and a weak ground it would pop that fuse (making a artificial ground you guys taught me about).... So redid the ground to correct spot and all was good., fixed the starter working good, and had original starter rebuilt.... But the Brake lights pope its fuse instantly now.... any advice where to go to fix that? Could it have somehow ruined a bulb so still shorting that circuit?

 

Your comment 8 times 90 degrees I hope means you adjusted only two valves at the 90 degree marks. Also checking or adjusting at any other number of degrees is totally wrong.

 

Started with all 8 loose... then adjusted all till zero lash pulling up and down on push rods, not side to side, or spinning.
Ten rotated 90. Checked and adjusted the loose ones.

Doing this 8 times walked the cam around 360 adjusting all on base circle. If one was not on base, then it would become loose once it hits base circle and was then adjusted once on base. Thus leaving all 16 valves adjusted on the base circle, and to zero lash up and down. Then 3/4 of a turn on all 16 for preload on lifter. I also before doing the 3/4 preload, amd putting covers back on rotated at random degrees, spots and checked them all for lash and loose or tight stuff. all 16 still at zero lash no matter where motor was at. then preload and covers.

 

This gent Ellison shows a very easy idiot-proof method for Hydraulic lifters. His Hydraulic lifters are Not full of oil.

 

This is what I did (Car was off and a week sitting cold) but I did not do the "spin" of the push rod I was instructed by other videos and by old school gear head friend the spin method can be to tight / veriables, and to use the up/ down method to get to zero lash. but same concept, starting loose, walking them all down to zero then 90, and repeat on loose ones till all 16 are zero lash on base ,and then add 3/4 turn.

The only other thing I did extra was spin the motor over to some random angles just to be sure nothing was loose. it was all correct and then 3/4 turn on it all, put covers back on.

 

The video shows him adjusting ONE cylinder every 90 degrees starting with number 1 on TDC and then proceeding in the firing order sequence 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. He does NOT adjust every loose valve every 90 degree turn.

 

If you watch the whole video, he talks about multiple ways. at the start yes he talks about doing it in the firing order, and then he talks about how inf he was interrupted with customer or phone calls he would forget what number he was on. So then his Main point of the video was to do them all, loose at first ,and work them all to zero lash, then 90, and redo, some will be good still and othes loose, and adjust the loose ones checking the others. the end result is all 16 zero lash on base circle. after 8x 90 degree rotations checking and adjusting the loose ones every time.