When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Picked up a 69 coupe. I saw it run. Then it would not start again. we assumed starter, or battery, or bad connections.
I have replaced the Hot and ground battery cables, Verified the Ignition is working. I have The main starter post with the new Direct hot to battery, and the Main 12V to car, When I push key in I get the open door buzzer. like should.
.The right small term on starter (S) is the START / 12V when you hit rotate key all the way to Start the car.
The left side is 12V in both the RUN position and the start position, and off when key is off. Powering the coil.
But when I try and start the car, IT click the starter and Pops the Ignition fuse. Which is kind of confusing as it was not doing that before it would just turn over the motor very slow liek weak battery, or starter or connections. now with good connection, POP.
Ensure that the ground from the battery is good and attached bolt clean, also look for ground wires from the engine to the frame. Inspect the positive battery cable that goes to the starter, make sure cable is not rusted/corroded on the inside, and there are no cracks in the outside jacket.
Ensure that the ground from the battery is good and attached bolt clean, also look for ground wires from the engine to the frame. Inspect the positive battery cable that goes to the starter, make sure cable is not rusted/corroded on the inside, and there are no cracks in the outside jacket.
\
As stated I replaced Both the Hot battery lead from Starter to battery, and the Battery to Frame All brand new. I can double check the Ground bolt Its currently mounted to the Parking brake cable bracket bolt. If this is incorrect or nor original, I am open to putting it in the correct location, but this is where it was when I replaced the cable.
Would a weak ground, cause the Hot side to blow? I would think just weak starting?
Take a picture of the wiring at the starter terminals. Might have a short there. The big terminal black wire needs to be to ground, not the positive terminal.
Looks like a fun car. Some were saying you overpaid, but I would say it was close to what people are paying for pretty 69's. Not enough $ to matter for a driver Corvette.
There is 4 wires to the starter solenoid. New hot lead, & hot to car on main post
left to coil when key is on run or start.
right is hit when key hits start.
there is a ground going from frame to starter mounting bolt.
One side note, the Left small wire going to the coil. The crimp was bad, catching insulation, and the raw wires coming out were touching the Nut & washer.. made connection but crappy one (maybe this was causing a miss when I saw it running). This was the case when we saw car running, and once I tried to start the car at home with slow spinning of motor. Once replacing all the Battery cables, I noticed this, So I Trimmed the wires, Then we started popping the fude.
I have now replaced the crimp properly. This connection would only provide the coil with better signal, and was not grounded out. But wanted to disclose unless something like not having the coil connected would cause the issue?
Having a fuse POP usually indicates a short in the wiring. Try taking the starter off and doing a bench test on it. You might also disconnect your start wire from the starter , insulate it and turn the key to see if the fuse pops.
Good luck.
“Pops the ignition fuse”. Is it still points ignition, or have the points been replaced with an electronic ignition conversion kit wired to 12v from the fuse box?
Having a fuse POP usually indicates a short in the wiring. Try taking the starter off and doing a bench test on it. You might also disconnect your start wire from the starter , insulate it and turn the key to see if the fuse pops.
Good luck.
Ed
I did this yesterday. Removed the starter. had all wires not touching anything. Connected the 12Vmain from battery to the 12V to car. and then could verify, the 12V to Coil on Run and start position, and the 12V to starter on START. Nothing popped all worked as expected, power windows and stuff worked.
I also used a Battery gave the starter 12V, and Ground and then jumpered 12V to the start term on solenoid and start spun and kicked the gear out....
BUT when you have started in place, and try and start car, POP Ignition fuse. ONLY thing I have NOT tried is the starter with the Fixed Coil wire. But would think it would not run but start would not pope fuse because of that.
Bottom left hand corner shows the proper ground location.
Thank you sir, anyone happen to know that bolt size? will get one and move mt ground from Ebrake bracket to that with clean threads and new bolt. Google says a 7/16-14 x 1-1/8 inch bolt with a star washer
Are you aware the R terminal on the starter solenoid that runs to the positive on the coil should read 12v ONLY when cranking?
Just to clarify - The yellow resistor bypass wire at the starter will be connected to the ignition coil positive at all times so it will show a voltage in the "run" position. It's just not being supplied by the solenoid while in the "run" position.
“Pops the ignition fuse”. Is it still points ignition, or have the points been replaced with an electronic ignition conversion kit wired to 12v from the fuse box?
Will be checking this. if its still points, its possible that the GROUNDing issue?
IF that's the case at some pint luck will have the motor stock and pints connect and it would leave you stranded correct?
Just to clarify - The yellow resistor bypass wire at the starter will be connected to the ignition coil positive at all times so it will show a voltage in the "run" position. It's just not being supplied by the solenoid while in the "run" position.
In the run position the 12v is coming from the ignition switch which is the resistor wire.
He should be checking the R terminal with the coil wire disconnected to prevent reading the voltage from the switch.
Are you aware the R terminal on the starter solenoid that runs to the positive on the coil should read 12v ONLY when cranking?
The R terminal will read voltage during run and crank as the resistor wire and the bypass wire are both connected at the coil. At the R Term., in the RUN Pos., the voltage will be less than 12V ( due to the resistance wire) if the coil is connected and the points are closed. If points are open then R terminal will be 12V due to no load on the resistance wire.
When I Verified the Wires and Voltages this was with the Starter Disconnected. So the Small left wire that goes to the R terminal was disconnected and got 12 V in both the Run and Start position.
I can mount starter again and verify. what it does with it connected to the Starter as well. BUt whenI hit start i expect it to click, and pop fuse again.
Also parts store tested starter a few times saying it was "Good" as well *** my bench test.
Will be checking this. if its still points, its possible that the GROUNDing issue?
IF that's the case at some pint luck will have the motor stock and pints connect and it would leave you stranded correct?
if you are familiar with a points distributor, you can remove the distributor cap and see the points or if they have been replaced with an electronic ignition conversion kit.
I think this issue needs to be clarified first because with the key in the run position, power is usually not from the resistor wire to power most electronic conversion kits. You mention it keeps popping the ignition fuse. A points setup generally has no fuses.
When I Verified the Wires and Voltages this was with the Starter Disconnected. So the Small left wire that goes to the R terminal was disconnected and got 12 V in both the Run and Start position.
I can mount starter again and verify. what it does with it connected to the Starter as well. BUt whenI hit start i expect it to click, and pop fuse again.
Also parts store tested starter a few times saying it was "Good" as well *** my bench test.
I understand. You will get voltage on that wire as the two wires (the bypass and resistor wires are tied together at the coil). Do you have a transistorized ignition or possibly an aftermarket points conversion kit? If you do , then the resistor wire that feeds the ignition coil is omitted and replaced with a regular wire( non-resistive). This should be determined first.
Possible ignition Sw. problem or short or open to ground. I would start tracing wires from the starter back to the ignition switch. Check all the ground wires, you may be creating an artificial ground thru your ignition circuit, due to lack of a grounding point elsewhere in the system.
if you are familiar with a points distributor, you can remove the distributor cap and see the points or if they have been replaced with an electronic ignition conversion kit.
I think this issue needs to be clarified first because with the key in the run position, power is usually not from the resistor wire to power most electronic conversion kits. You mention it keeps popping the ignition fuse. A points setup generally has no fuses.
I suggest taking your distributor cap off and taking a photo or two of the inside so helpers here can take a look.
69 Starting issue
