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I'm thrilled that the 200R4 is holding up. I have the Stage 3 from BTO, but haven't run it yet- Working on the 396 small block right now. Sounds awesome Oliver-congrats.
The CPT 200R4 that I have in my '68 is advertised to hold up to 800 HP..
What's the BTO stage 3 TH200R4 rated?
you must not have been looking hard enough, there was a tube chassis on ebay not long ago and I tihnk it was on racing junk also ('t was a red car), why swap the body if you can find a tube chassis w/ roll cage and all, which would make swapping bodies extremely difficult. I'd just swap the driveline and be done with it.
You may have discussed this previously but why don't you manually shift? I think it will shift faster manually (I could be wrong).
Also, fyi - I am assuming a 200r4 is similiar to a 700r4, I put in a billet servo assembly in my 700r4 last week, it's an upgrade to the vette servo that in itself is an upgrade to the standard servo. If you want a clean, firm, hard (almost to hard for the street) shift get the billet servo.
You may have discussed this previously but why don't you manually shift? I think it will shift faster manually (I could be wrong).
Also, fyi - I am assuming a 200r4 is similiar to a 700r4, I put in a billet servo assembly in my 700r4 last week, it's an upgrade to the vette servo that in itself is an upgrade to the standard servo. If you want a clean, firm, hard (almost to hard for the street) shift get the billet servo.
I am bracket racing and a I want to reduce the "human" factor to a minimum. It's almost impossible to shift at the same RPM as exact as the transmission itself.. I also can't shift 1 - 2 manually because my transbrake takes place of first gear. (the tranny has a first gear but you can't manually shift into it. Therefore 1 -2 is ALWAYS automatic with my valvebody. I can manually shift 2 - 3).
Unfortunately electric or air shifters are not permitted in the footbrake class.. Therefore I'll have to stick with automatic valvebody...
Last edited by GrandSportC3; Jun 26, 2005 at 05:50 PM.
I am bracket racing and a I want to reduce the "human" factor to a minimum. It's almost impossible to shift at the same RPM as exact as the transmission itself.. I also can't shift 1 - 2 manually because my transbrake takes place of first gear. (the tranny has a first gear but you can't manually shift into it. Therefore 1 -2 is ALWAYS automatic with my valvebody. I can manually shift 2 - 3).
Unfortunately electric or air shifters are not permitted in the footbrake class.. Therefore I'll have to stick with automatic valvebody...
Way to go Oliver Shifting an automatic can be difficult. I wanted to manually shift at 7000 years ago and had my shift light set at 6200 and I often still hit the rev limiter at 7500 before completing the shift. That was a 400 as well.
I also feel that you are way too heavy for a powerglid.
I enjoy your post.
the engine revs very quickly and manually shifting, especially the 1 - 2 shift at the same rpm is difficult.. The transmission always shifts within 100 RPM.. A human can't do that...
I could've also gotten the TH200R4 with manual valve body. Other than strength, the TH200R4 beats the TH400 in every category:
1) lighter
2) eats less HP
3) better gear ratios
I'm not under time pressure to hit 10's.. There's no doubt at all that I'll hit 10's.. maybe even this summer. It will be possible to get the shift points where I want them and still will have a automatic valve body.
I also finally got some decent R/T's with my setup: .012, .061 and .077..
For the next months, I'll be tweaking engine and transmission..and I predict high 10's in summer and mid 10's in winter .
I'm extremely satisfied with my engine.. It's a real beast with a great power band . Except the shift point which I will get where I want it, I'm also very pleased with the TH200R4... Other than the shift point, the tranny is excellent. Love those gear ratios..
BTW, the new governor was modified for the spring not to pop out, so I won't have to worry about it to pop out .
So far, I have close to 40 passes on the 200R4 and it holds up excellent..
First of all....TH400 might be "a little" heavier but worth every bit in strenght over the 200. And when you have a TH400 built (not buying it out of a cataloge) there are many different gear ratio options(But when you look for the "cheapeast" you may not get all those options).
Next time you are at a drag race (not corvette only) see how many race cars (with 8 cyls.) are running a TH200R (I'll bet $1000 NOT ONE) You ALWAYS seem to find some lame excuse when you can not admit that your tranny was a MISTAKE with the bubba "brake". Hey I'm a poet and don't know it.
Nobody mentioned time frame, reaction time, or if you are happy with your engine. Do not try to change the subject.
Why would I need a stronger tranny if mine holds up just fine.. I'm sure that I already have more passes on my TH200R4 than you have on your 700R4...
My engine is f'n awsome and will get me deep into the 10's. New intake is going on this week..
BTW, if the manual valve body is so great, how many bracket race events have you won with your manual valvebody? A manual valvebody is nice in combination with a electric or air shifter. Both aren't legal in foot brake classes..
[Quote: GrandSportC3]So far, I have close to 40 passes on the 200R4 and it holds up excellent
HOW CLOSE!!??? 18?...28?...38? You are usually so technical & precise (with numbers), but I guess when it's in your favor. BUT not one pass with THE BRAKE!!!
"WE WANNA SEE THE BRAKE!!!!" "WE WANNA SEE THE BRAKE!!!!" I think you're scared!!!! Either of what the car will do or if the tranny will hold up. Either way...you are chicken...chicken...chicken
Why would I need a stronger tranny if mine holds up just fine.. I'm sure that I already have more passes on my TH200R4 than you have on your 700R4...
My engine is f'n awsome and will get me deep into the 10's. New intake is going on this week..
BTW, if the manual valve body is so great, how many bracket race events have you won with your manual valvebody? A manual valvebody is nice in combination with a electric or air shifter. Both aren't legal in foot brake classes..
I am NOT saying anything or comparing anything to my tranny. Only to say, "IF" I had a race car I would NOT have and O.D. tranny.
My Vette is NOT a RACE CAR. Do not compare my car to yours. Again "IF" I had just spent $20,000+ on my car I would have gotten a lot more than 1 second out of it (and you did not even gst that YET).
I am NOT saying anything or comparing anything to my tranny. I am just. Just IF I had a race car I would NOT have and O.D. tranny.
He already owns the transmission. Weather it is a mistake or not why would he not continue to use it? I agree he doesn't need an overdrive transmission but since it is paid for, installed and working why not just continue with it??
I admire his determination to continue even being polite when he is taking so much razzing. I myself have given him a rough time and he comes back with polite friend responses.
I don't think we should contiually pick on him because of the combination he has choosen.
He is out there trying alot harder then most of us and break or not he will continue to run his car hard.
He already owns the transmission. Weather it is a mistake or not why would he not continue to use it? I agree he doesn't need an overdrive transmission but since it is paid for, installed and working why not just continue with it??
I admire his determination to continue even being polite when he is taking so much razzing. I myself have given him a rough time and he comes back with polite friend responses.
I don't think we should contiually pick on him because of the combination he has choosen.
He is out there trying alot harder then most of us and break or not he will continue to run his car hard.
1000000000% But I would sell that 200 before it leaves something down the track(so he can get some $$$) to buy a real "race" tarnny
Norm, I will run the transbrake once I got my wheel spacers. I'm also running events where the use of the transbrake is not an advantage and/or illegal in my class.
Furthermore, my '68 is a street driven Pro Street car and not just a track car. I do drive the car around town and tranny and engine would run pretty hot without overdrive...
Norm, I will run the transbrake once I got my wheel spacers. I'm also running events where the use of the transbrake is not an advantage and/or illegal in my class.
Furthermore, my '68 is a street driven Pro Street car and not just a track car. I do drive the car around town and tranny and engine would run pretty hot without overdrive...
I remember you telling me " I would NEVER run wheel spacers" and what does that have to do with the "brake". T&T is your perfect opportunity for the the "brake" that is why it's has that name. I do NOT expect you to try it out (for the first time) during an "event".
I thought PRO-STREET term was used when a car is back-halfed. GOSH...silly me
He already owns the transmission. Weather it is a mistake or not why would he not continue to use it? I agree he doesn't need an overdrive transmission but since it is paid for, installed and working why not just continue with it??
I admire his determination to continue even being polite when he is taking so much razzing. I myself have given him a rough time and he comes back with polite friend responses.
I don't think we should contiually pick on him because of the combination he has choosen.
He is out there trying alot harder then most of us and break or not he will continue to run his car hard.
Ok, Norm, I'd bet that you would not gain more than a second with $20k.
Well, maybe for 1 pass before your differential craps out.
You'll have to expect to spend at least $5000 on rear end and rear suspension upgrades
$3500 for a purpose built tranny, $1000 for a legal 6-point rollbar, $300 for a shifter, $300 for a driveshaft (your aluminum shaft will not hold up to 600+ HP), $750 for a carb (your 750 will be too small), $300+ for a front suspension upgrade, $800 for lightweight wheels + big enough slicks. That'll leave about $7k - $8k for the engine.....
I'd like to see if somebody will build you a 650 HP engine for that kind of money... You'd need AT LEAST 650 HP to gain a second...
Let me know where you'd save the money to be able to spend more on the engine