When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I think your money would be best spent on dyno tuning, do you know what your A/F ratio is ? How do you know the motor is dialed in properly, you could be leaving 50HP on the table right now
Checked the plugs and they look perfect... They color is just right.. I think that my A/F is close to perfect...
For the uppers, I believe VBP makes soem tubular ones. Jim Meyer Racing also has uppers that they sell with their kit. They might sell them individually if you ask. I was able to get them to sell me just the lowers from their kit. Talk to them through email first though.
I was going to suggest just that, those look to be extremely light, about as light as you can get. Would be nice to have the lower ones but then w/ a spring pocket added since O wants to keep the stock coil setup.
Well, for drag racing I'll have to stick with coil springs.. I hardly doubt that a composite front spring is going to give me enough weight transfer..
Flush mounted Lexan windows since you're racing more than streeting these days.
Planning on changing the windshield and side windows..
Lighter steering column assy.
Who makes a light weight bolt on with the right connector?
Aluminum master cylinder and light brake components you're talking about.
Who makes a bolt on light weight master cylinder? Any links are appreciated... (BTW - I have manual brakes)
Completely block off radiator opening and air coming into engine compartment except scoop.
it's very limited already...
Seal scoop to carb with an aluminum base plate.
That would require fabrication skills that I don't have.. The top of my carb already sits at the same level as the hood.
Open up back of hood/cowl area to make sure no air is trapped under hood. This helps keep nose down at speed.
The cowl is open already.. I cut it open when I installed my home made cold air setup..
Drop nose down to bump stops while at rest.
Need details on that...
Play with high gear timing retard.
I doubt that this is not legal for no-electronics brackets...
I'm really looking for what MPH does in cooler weather. Still looks a little off potential to me.
I'm sure that I can get to 125 mph in winter..
Still not sure on 3/8" fuel lines, bigger is good insurance, especially when you start spraying.
If I'll start spraying, I'm going to run a separate fuel system for the nitrous.. I might go with bigger fuel lines anyway to keep the fuel cooler.. I'll have to pull the sending unit on the tank and have someone install a fitting for the larger line.. Planning on running #8 braided fuel line all the way from the tank to the carb..
Go ahead and plan on 200-250hp N20 hit.
I won't go with more than 150 HP shot because my tranny is only built to 800 HP and I want to be on the safe side... Anyway, 150 HP shot should be good for 9's.. Even with a 250 shot, I won't get into 8's.. so it really doesn' tmatter.
Plastic fuel cell?
When I installed my current fuel tank, I noticed that it's not too heavy.. Don't think that a fuel cell will make a difference...
Very small aluminum race radiator..sell regular one. Less water is lighter weight too!
not worth the money.. My Griffin isn't too heavy and I'm planning on driving the car on the street again at one point and anything smaller will overheat..
I like light control arm idea
me too!!
Check into an aluminum manual rack and pinion set up
That would be too much money considering the weight savings... I'm not going to spend $1000 to save 20 lbs...
Look for someone to replicate your bumpers in chromed plastic.
If I would have somebody fabricate them, it would be way too expensive and not worth the weight savings.. The bumpers are maybe 25 lbs...
Use Royal Purple "0" weight REAL race oil for the banzai runs. This is NOT to leave in for a long time, but it will help turn the number..guaranteed! Not street oil..RACE oil.
I don't wanna take the chance to damage my engine with that oil.. I'm using Royal Purple 10/30 and it works great.
Gotta get those shift points up there.
no doubt.. It's only the 1-2 shift.. I manually shift 2 -3
Set the valves!!
I'll do that when I'll get a chance... The stud girdles should be holding them in place pretty good..
Many small blocks respond to 1.65-1.7 rockers on the outboard cylinders only. That's 4 intake rockers, doesn't cost much.
There are some fuel additivces that will actually increase power, not just resist detonation
I'm pretty sure that the 110 octane leaded fuel has some additives in it.. I'm not thinking in changing out rocker arms.. My 1.6 ratio arms shoudl be fine..
[quote]
Seriously consider whacking heads to get to 13.0 compression with .015 gaskets and go to alcohol. Cheaper than gas, even if you do use twice as much. If you're racing, it just makes sense.
Don't think that this will be necessary.. I only need .15 and most of that I should be getting with the transbrake.. All the suggested weight savings should easily get me .2 or so...
The Jim Meyers racing kit is set up for coil overs, not some silly monospring deal.
Those coilovers look way too short for drag racing.. Drag Race front springs need to be able to extend a lot and those don't look like they'll do that...
I wonder if this ia more like a Road Race rather than a drag race setup
I also looked through the Jim Meyers Catalog and didn't see anything for '68 - '82 Vettes.. just for pre '62...
except:
Check out the Precision Brakes link on the side of the Forum page.....they are making me a bolt-on Wilwood kit with drilled rotors and Dynalite 4 piston calipers for my '69...(I am also trying to lighten my car).....
Check out the Precision Brakes link on the side of the Forum page.....they are making me a bolt-on Wilwood kit with drilled rotors and Dynalite 4 piston calipers for my '69...(I am also trying to lighten my car).....
The Aerospace kit is lighter than the Wilwood kit... That's why I'm planning on using the Aerospace kit..
Last edited by GrandSportC3; Aug 14, 2005 at 05:05 PM.
too short? what do you wnat? You want the car as low in the front as possible, if it sits high you'll have a pole vaulting type action going on, lifting the nose and squatting the rear..wasting power into the suspension, why would you want long springs that extend? Soft springs yes but long springs? It's not like you're competing in the baha 500.
too short? what do you wnat? You want the car as low in the front as possible, if it sits high you'll have a pole vaulting type action going on, lifting the nose and squatting the rear..wasting power into the suspension, why would you want long springs that extend? Soft springs yes but long springs? It's not like you're competing in the baha 500.
In order to get the most possible weight transfer in front, you need springs that extend a lot.. I'm not talking about springs that make the car sit high, just about springs that have very thin coils and compress easily but also extend easily.. Most drag front springs are rated 250 lbs/inch...
good brake's is allways nice, driver diet is the cheapest,maybe not the easiest but
Well, those brakes are know that they don't really stop too good... :will:.. The stock brakes very likely stop better, but 50 lbs off the front would be nice...
Well, those brakes are know that they don't really stop too good... :will:.. The stock brakes very likely stop better, but 50 lbs off the front would be nice...
so those are the little 9" rotors with the tiny single piston calipors??
so those are the little 9" rotors with the tiny single piston calipors??
I think that they are 10".. but I'm not sure.. They aren't really good brakes.. but they are light.. I actually if they'll hold the car good enough for the burnout...
I think that they are 10".. but I'm not sure.. They aren't really good brakes.. but they are light.. I actually if they'll hold the car good enough for the burnout...
look / see if the Super/Stockers (NHRA) run them if not i wouldn'r spend the money ..I'd go up i size and a couple eztra pounds