What mods could I do to my '68 to make it even faster?

One of the things that I'm thinking in getting is the Aerospace front brake setup which takes 50 lbs off the front..which should also reduce the ET a little bit... I could also go with a chromoly trans crossmember which would take even more weight off...

I really can't think of any more performance mods that I could do, except for a dominator carb...
I'm planning on adding a 150 shot of nitrous in wnter, but I still want to do some more mods before that.. but I can't think of anything...

 

Did you find your electrical problem? Make the car as light as possible. Have you had the car dyno tuned? Indexing spark plugs, fuel additives, put ice on the intake right before a run.

Neal

 

getting the transmission straightened out so it shifts where you need it

 

I'll have the car dyno tuned in fall.. However, I'm pretty sure that I'm very close to where I'm supposed to be.. The spark plugs looked beautiful after my last track visit.. The electrical problem isn't fixed but the car is running again.. I'll still have to figure out what wire caused the problem and bypass that connection..
I doubt that fuel additives would help considering that I'm using 110 octane leaded fuel at the track..

 

remove lights and hardware
remove bumpers and brackets
remove front frame extension and make your own lightweight one
replace front suspension with something lighter
buy a blower and nitrous

 

I'm gonna do that this coming week if I'll get a chance.. I'll actually put the old governor back into the car but I'm going to change out the spring...

 

i agree with marck,try and lighten it up a light as you can

 

The lights and hardware have very little weight and won't make a difference.. They are less than 10 lbs..
I could take the bumpers off.. That should give me about .02 or so...
I have no fabrication skills.. so #3 won't happen... at least for a while..
I have been looking for lightweight a-arms but haven't found anything.. The a-arms are definetlye heavy and there's a huge weight savings potential.. I will however have to stay with coil springs vs. lightweight composite spring for the front because composite springs will not give me enough weight transfer to hook up. Any links etc. for lightweight a-arm assemblies would be appreciated..
I'll probably add nitrous in winter, but my compression ratio is too high for a blower.. I could only run very little boost..

 

I think that I could get the car down to about 2600 lbs... Lower than that would be difficult..

I'd have to replace all crossmembers with chromoly crossmembers, use lightweight front brakes, remove bumpers etc..

I also could go with a lightweight battery, eliminated the alternator and brackets etc...

 

We ran Max Race Fuel in our outboards and it worked very well. It contains Nitro Methane with a propane carrier to help it mix with gasoline I will have to lookup their web site and post it they had some good info on their site.
Here is the link: http://www.pricechemical.com/max_race.htm
Neal

 

I think your money would be best spent on dyno tuning, do you know what your A/F ratio is ? How do you know the motor is dialed in properly, you could be leaving 50HP on the table right now

 

For the uppers, I believe VBP makes soem tubular ones. Jim Meyer Racing also has uppers that they sell with their kit. They might sell them individually if you ask. I was able to get them to sell me just the lowers from their kit. Talk to them through email first though.

 

I was going to suggest just that, those look to be extremely light, about as light as you can get. Would be nice to have the lower ones but then w/ a spring pocket added since O wants to keep the stock coil setup.

 

Go on a diet and lose 50 lbs. Cheaper than any mod

 

replace glass with lexan
remove interior, install lightweight drivers seat & dash
lighter top???
carbon fiber front end???
Helium in tires

 

What about the front spindles? That whole assembly is so heavy. Are there any aluminum units that would fit?

 

I just did a google search on steel tube frames.... looks like you could drop some major lbs!!!

 

Flush mounted Lexan windows since you're racing more than streeting these days.
Lighter steering column assy.
Aluminum master cylinder and light brake components you're talking about.
Completely block off radiator opening and air coming into engine compartment except scoop.
Seal scoop to carb with an aluminum base plate.
Open up back of hood/cowl area to make sure no air is trapped under hood. This helps keep nose down at speed.
Drop nose down to bump stops while at rest.
Play with high gear timing retard.
I'm really looking for what MPH does in cooler weather. Still looks a little off potential to me.
Still not sure on 3/8" fuel lines, bigger is good insurance, especially when you start spraying.
Go ahead and plan on 200-250hp N20 hit.
Plastic fuel cell?
Very small aluminum race radiator..sell regular one. Less water is lighter weight too!
I like light control arm idea
Check into an aluminum manual rack and pinion set up
Look for someone to replicate your bumpers in chromed plastic.
Use Royal Purple "0" weight REAL race oil for the banzai runs. This is NOT to leave in for a long time, but it will help turn the number..guaranteed! Not street oil..RACE oil.
Gotta get those shift points up there.
Set the valves!!
Many small blocks respond to 1.65-1.7 rockers on the outboard cylinders only. That's 4 intake rockers, doesn't cost much.
There are some fuel additivces that will actually increase power, not just resist detonation
Seriously consider whacking heads to get to 13.0 compression with .015 gaskets and go to alcohol. Cheaper than gas, even if you do use twice as much. If you're racing, it just makes sense.

I'll keep trying to think of more....


JIM

 

I heard that seats from 78+ are much lighter than the older styles.

 

Start drilling holes...
If it's not necesssary for the car to function, remove it...i.e. interior, dash, e-brake, extra wiring, that heavy dash...
Replace as much stuff as possible with aluminum and other alternative lightweight materials.
Tube frame?
250 shot of nitrous.
solid rocket boosters under the back bumper
switch to alcohol and up your compression to 17:1

well..ok...maybe not on the last couple...but 2lbs, 3lbs, 6lbs, 10lbs, 3lbs, 5lbs all adds up to almost 30lbs...keep whittling it down...its adds up.