What mods?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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why wouldn't it be suited, it first of all is a helluva lot lighter, most serious guys probably run a mcpherson strut arrangement which basically is a coil over mounted straight to the spindle eliminating the upper control arm. most if not all tube frames run these mcpherson struts (like the stuff from strange engineering)
It's your choice...run the bulky stock setup or a set of nice lightweight control arms, and aluminium lightweight small tube coil overs & springs...a lot lighter, a lot easier to tune.
It's your choice...run the bulky stock setup or a set of nice lightweight control arms, and aluminium lightweight small tube coil overs & springs...a lot lighter, a lot easier to tune.
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Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
why wouldn't it be suited, it first of all is a helluva lot lighter, most serious guys probably run a mcpherson strut arrangement which basically is a coil over mounted straight to the spindle eliminating the upper control arm. most if not all tube frames run these mcpherson struts (like the stuff from strange engineering)
It's your choice...run the bulky stock setup or a set of nice lightweight control arms, and aluminium lightweight small tube coil overs & springs...a lot lighter, a lot easier to tune.
It's your choice...run the bulky stock setup or a set of nice lightweight control arms, and aluminium lightweight small tube coil overs & springs...a lot lighter, a lot easier to tune.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
If we are talking drag racing then go heavier and with loads more horsepower such as a blower or nitrous. I envision a vehicle that is like 50 feet high and weighs like 20 tons with an engine that produces around 100,000 ftlbs of torque...at least the weight will help keep the friction steady on the tires eh?
OK, so don't go to that extreme...but if you aren't interested in lateral acceleration (turns) then forget about weight and go for more torque. Going from 3,400lbs to 3,300lbs is only a 3% decrease in the weight and also in HP/Weight ratio, but going from 400HP to 450HP is a 12.5% increase in HP and also in HP/Weight ratio. You should only be looking for weight reduction of 100lbs or less when you can't increase your HP by more than 3% or around 10HP. It's really easier to get an extra 10HP on the road and safer than it is to lose 100lbs from your vehicle. Just my thoughts.
OK, so don't go to that extreme...but if you aren't interested in lateral acceleration (turns) then forget about weight and go for more torque. Going from 3,400lbs to 3,300lbs is only a 3% decrease in the weight and also in HP/Weight ratio, but going from 400HP to 450HP is a 12.5% increase in HP and also in HP/Weight ratio. You should only be looking for weight reduction of 100lbs or less when you can't increase your HP by more than 3% or around 10HP. It's really easier to get an extra 10HP on the road and safer than it is to lose 100lbs from your vehicle. Just my thoughts.
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by Rockn-Roll
If we are talking drag racing then go heavier and with loads more horsepower such as a blower or nitrous. I envision a vehicle that is like 50 feet high and weighs like 20 tons with an engine that produces around 100,000 ftlbs of torque...at least the weight will help keep the friction steady on the tires eh?
OK, so don't go to that extreme...but if you aren't interested in lateral acceleration (turns) then forget about weight and go for more torque. Going from 3,400lbs to 3,300lbs is only a 3% decrease in the weight and also in HP/Weight ratio, but going from 400HP to 450HP is a 12.5% increase in HP and also in HP/Weight ratio. You should only be looking for weight reduction of 100lbs or less when you can't increase your HP by more than 3% or around 10HP. It's really easier to get an extra 10HP on the road and safer than it is to lose 100lbs from your vehicle. Just my thoughts.
OK, so don't go to that extreme...but if you aren't interested in lateral acceleration (turns) then forget about weight and go for more torque. Going from 3,400lbs to 3,300lbs is only a 3% decrease in the weight and also in HP/Weight ratio, but going from 400HP to 450HP is a 12.5% increase in HP and also in HP/Weight ratio. You should only be looking for weight reduction of 100lbs or less when you can't increase your HP by more than 3% or around 10HP. It's really easier to get an extra 10HP on the road and safer than it is to lose 100lbs from your vehicle. Just my thoughts.
.. I'm only going a straight line 
The goal is to drop the ET by about .1 and.. with a good 60' time I will be in the 10's... For .1, I'll need about 15 HP or 150lbs off the vehicle (or a transbrake launch
)... My engine is already built very radical and it will be hard to extract another 15 HP... even though I'm sure that it's possible.. I'm basically looking for the cheapest method of reducing the ET by about .10.. The lightweight front brakes are about $550.. and will reduce the weight by 50 lbs... If I'll have someone fabricate me a chromoly tranny crossmember, it'll cost me about another $500 or so... That will take about 30 lbs off the vehicle...
A lightweight battery should reduce it another 20 lbs...
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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Stored energy? it doesn't matter what rating springs you have, they both store the same amount of energy since the energy stored is the weight load on them, the only difference is the extension. The 550# spring unloads the enery over a shorter extension length than the 250# but the energy released is the same, if not you would have found a source of free energy. What you want to get the shock to extend without interference is a shock w/ little rebound dampening (not safe for street).
You are always referring to what others run, do those others run corvettes also? What are adjustable 90/10s? Either they are 90/10 bump/rebound valved or they're adjustable over a certain range. 90/10 shock technology is ancient, do some research and you'll be amazed at what's available today.
You are always referring to what others run, do those others run corvettes also? What are adjustable 90/10s? Either they are 90/10 bump/rebound valved or they're adjustable over a certain range. 90/10 shock technology is ancient, do some research and you'll be amazed at what's available today.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
Ah...OK...how about rigging up a remote control unit and swap a plastic dummy in there ...er...never mind, that would just defeat the purpose...the dummy would be getting a great ride while you will be like playing a computer game. 
Seats? That huge vacuum reservoir? Isn't it Norval that like drilled holes in his frame...well...you've been around and seen his posts. I can't think of anything that anyone else has thought of or you have thought of already. A/C still in there? Kinda hard to go without A/C in Florida though. How about some racing stickers...I hear there's like 10HP per ounce with those!
I think I recall you saying that the Spare tire is already out. I think you've done it all. Solid motor mounts will shave a few pounds. Do you still have power windows, power steering, etc.? Going manual will help some. How about cutting holes in the body just in front of each of the rear wheels and mounting some super glue injectors to spray on the track just before launch? OK...I've reached the outer limits now...well...I started in the Twilight Zone so it's probably no surprise.
Can you remove the windows? I think the glass actually weighs a good 30 to 40 lbs.
...er...never mind, that would just defeat the purpose...the dummy would be getting a great ride while you will be like playing a computer game. Seats? That huge vacuum reservoir? Isn't it Norval that like drilled holes in his frame...well...you've been around and seen his posts. I can't think of anything that anyone else has thought of or you have thought of already. A/C still in there? Kinda hard to go without A/C in Florida though. How about some racing stickers...I hear there's like 10HP per ounce with those!
I think I recall you saying that the Spare tire is already out. I think you've done it all. Solid motor mounts will shave a few pounds. Do you still have power windows, power steering, etc.? Going manual will help some. How about cutting holes in the body just in front of each of the rear wheels and mounting some super glue injectors to spray on the track just before launch? OK...I've reached the outer limits now...well...I started in the Twilight Zone so it's probably no surprise.
Can you remove the windows? I think the glass actually weighs a good 30 to 40 lbs.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Stored energy? it doesn't matter what rating springs you have, they both store the same amount of energy since the energy stored is the weight load on them, the only difference is the extension. The 550# spring unloads the enery over a shorter extension length than the 250# but the energy released is the same, if not you would have found a source of free energy. What you want to get the shock to extend without interference is a shock w/ little rebound dampening (not safe for street).
You are always referring to what others run, do those others run corvettes also? What are adjustable 90/10s? Either they are 90/10 bump/rebound valved or they're adjustable over a certain range. 90/10 shock technology is ancient, do some research and you'll be amazed at what's available today.
You are always referring to what others run, do those others run corvettes also? What are adjustable 90/10s? Either they are 90/10 bump/rebound valved or they're adjustable over a certain range. 90/10 shock technology is ancient, do some research and you'll be amazed at what's available today.
Believe me, with long, soft springs you will get the wheels up higher than with short springs. Coilovers for the front are for road racing where a tight suspension is needed.. Coilovers are great for handling, but I don't need handling, just weight transfer.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by Rockn-Roll
Ah...OK...how about rigging up a remote control unit and swap a plastic dummy in there ...er...never mind, that would just defeat the purpose...the dummy would be getting a great ride while you will be like playing a computer game.
Seats? That huge vacuum reservoir? Isn't it Norval that like drilled holes in his frame...well...you've been around and seen his posts. I can't think of anything that anyone else has thought of or you have thought of already. A/C still in there? Kinda hard to go without A/C in Florida though. How about some racing stickers...I hear there's like 10HP per ounce with those!
I think I recall you saying that the Spare tire is already out. I think you've done it all. Solid motor mounts will shave a few pounds. Do you still have power windows, power steering, etc.? Going manual will help some. How about cutting holes in the body just in front of each of the rear wheels and mounting some super glue injectors to spray on the track just before launch? OK...I've reached the outer limits now...well...I started in the Twilight Zone so it's probably no surprise.
Can you remove the windows? I think the glass actually weighs a good 30 to 40 lbs.
...er...never mind, that would just defeat the purpose...the dummy would be getting a great ride while you will be like playing a computer game. Seats? That huge vacuum reservoir? Isn't it Norval that like drilled holes in his frame...well...you've been around and seen his posts. I can't think of anything that anyone else has thought of or you have thought of already. A/C still in there? Kinda hard to go without A/C in Florida though. How about some racing stickers...I hear there's like 10HP per ounce with those!
I think I recall you saying that the Spare tire is already out. I think you've done it all. Solid motor mounts will shave a few pounds. Do you still have power windows, power steering, etc.? Going manual will help some. How about cutting holes in the body just in front of each of the rear wheels and mounting some super glue injectors to spray on the track just before launch? OK...I've reached the outer limits now...well...I started in the Twilight Zone so it's probably no surprise.
Can you remove the windows? I think the glass actually weighs a good 30 to 40 lbs.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
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From: Carmichael CA
Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
I removed already all excess weight from interior. No power accessories and I use a lightweight race seat.. The car is already down to 2850 lbs... Except the crossmembers, battery, a-arms, brakes and spindles, I don't see too much more possible weight saving...
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by Rockn-Roll
Hmmm...how about a smaller gas tank? You only need one that holds a gallon right?
I also want to rather save weight in front than in the rear..
Last edited by GrandSportC3; Aug 17, 2005 at 12:00 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 6
From: FRANKLIN GA
O... There's not to much left you can do to that car except replacing perfectly good working stuff with very expensive unobtainian stuff.
You need to be thinking cubic inches or forced induction of some kind...nitrous the cheapest, blowers the prettiest, or twin turbos the rarest (in a C3 anyway). All three can be as mild or wild as you want to get. Oh yeah, I almost forgot...Quit being a sissy and RUN THE TRANSBRAKE!!!
You need to be thinking cubic inches or forced induction of some kind...nitrous the cheapest, blowers the prettiest, or twin turbos the rarest (in a C3 anyway). All three can be as mild or wild as you want to get. Oh yeah, I almost forgot...Quit being a sissy and RUN THE TRANSBRAKE!!!
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
Likes: 88
From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by EDDIEJ82
O... There's not to much left you can do to that car except replacing perfectly good working stuff with very expensive unobtainian stuff.
You need to be thinking cubic inches or forced induction of some kind...nitrous the cheapest, blowers the prettiest, or twin turbos the rarest (in a C3 anyway). All three can be as mild or wild as you want to get. Oh yeah, I almost forgot...Quit being a sissy and RUN THE TRANSBRAKE!!!
You need to be thinking cubic inches or forced induction of some kind...nitrous the cheapest, blowers the prettiest, or twin turbos the rarest (in a C3 anyway). All three can be as mild or wild as you want to get. Oh yeah, I almost forgot...Quit being a sissy and RUN THE TRANSBRAKE!!!
I've set myself the goal to get into 10's in summer ALL THROTTLE WITH NO BOTTLE OR BOOST!! I know that I'm able to run 10's before the end of summer.. That will get me into mid 10's by winter and with a 150 shot, I should easily get into 9's in winter.. I think that 9.70's - 9.80's should be possible with spray... The engine could handle a bigger shot, but the tranny is only built to 800 HP and I would exceed 800 HP with a 250 HP shot.... I want to be on the safe side...
I might run the transbrake very soon... First I'll have to fix my 1-2 shift point...
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,325
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From: FRANKLIN GA
The HP isn't what kills these OD trans...it's the torque. The 150 shot will increase the torque drasticly, so the 800 number is probably irrelevent.
Good luck with the 1-2 shift, I gave up on my 1-2 shift and decided to let it shift where it would. I can get 2-3 and 3-4 to shift right where I want it, but the auto shift feature for 1-2 in these trannies is almost impossible to overcome unless you go to a full manual valve body. The way your brake works, I wouldn't have a clue what would help it. Actually it might help it to hold the pressure longer...You might be chasing a ghost, you'll never know till you try it.
Good luck with the 1-2 shift, I gave up on my 1-2 shift and decided to let it shift where it would. I can get 2-3 and 3-4 to shift right where I want it, but the auto shift feature for 1-2 in these trannies is almost impossible to overcome unless you go to a full manual valve body. The way your brake works, I wouldn't have a clue what would help it. Actually it might help it to hold the pressure longer...You might be chasing a ghost, you'll never know till you try it.
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Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by EDDIEJ82
The HP isn't what kills these OD trans...it's the torque. The 150 shot will increase the torque drasticly, so the 800 number is probably irrelevent.
Good luck with the 1-2 shift, I gave up on my 1-2 shift and decided to let it shift where it would. I can get 2-3 and 3-4 to shift right where I want it, but the auto shift feature for 1-2 in these trannies is almost impossible to overcome unless you go to a full manual valve body. The way your brake works, I wouldn't have a clue what would help it. Actually it might help it to hold the pressure longer...You might be chasing a ghost, you'll never know till you try it.
Good luck with the 1-2 shift, I gave up on my 1-2 shift and decided to let it shift where it would. I can get 2-3 and 3-4 to shift right where I want it, but the auto shift feature for 1-2 in these trannies is almost impossible to overcome unless you go to a full manual valve body. The way your brake works, I wouldn't have a clue what would help it. Actually it might help it to hold the pressure longer...You might be chasing a ghost, you'll never know till you try it.
If I'm going to add the 150 shot, I'd also go with a 3000 RPM on, 6000 RPM off switch, so that I won't spray through the shifts.. However, for that to happen, I'll have to get my shift point above 6000 RPM...
Last edited by GrandSportC3; Aug 17, 2005 at 12:45 PM.