Vetteman9368 uses them on his Super Stocker...

 

Put traveler limiters on your front suspension so it doesnt drop all the way down when you lift the front end, Tweak your engine, I bet you have 100 untapped hp in there,easier than loosing a 1000lbs.I told you you could have an extra set of strange calipers I have ,you would need thier rotors and brackets, you send them your spindles for machining,Im sure thats how the other kits are, they stop very well.You need to spin that baby to 7000 plus. If it cant go to that rpm or higher than thats where you need to make it.A good sb should go to 8000 if you want it that fast.RPM retard in top gear would help keep the engine from working against itself.Start with 4-6 degrees should mile an hour and drop et .Keep jetting it up til you loose mph.You dont want a lexan front windshield it distorts the view except in front. Side windows are ok.

 

I have never heard of that. What is the reasoning behind it?

Oliver, that kit isnt listed on the Jim Meyer Racing website for some reason. No clue why. You would need to email them to see if they would sell the upper control arms separately. The guy that answers the emails is a good guy and will ask the owner questions to try to satisfy you. They normally dont sell the lowers individually but the guy answering the emails talked to the owner and made it happen for me. The guy on the phone that takes the orders doesnt seem to be as helpful. He looks at the parts list and if it isnt on there, o well.

 

Has to do with the intake runners being longer on those cylinders. You are speeding up the valve event to compensate and even things out. No need to do it on the exhausts..they are the same. It's not big power..maybe 5 or so, but if you're buying rockers anyway, you can mix and match them for similar $$ and 5 hp here and there adds up to 10-20 before you know it. That's the kind of stuff that makes some motors run better than others at this level.

Not sure where he's going to find much mroe weight. The steering colum will be a fab deal..check with your roll bar guy,,he could probably do it. Might be able to install something like the aluminum Corvair type boxes that the roundy pounder and street rod guys use.

3-5 gallon fuel cell is lots lighter than a stock tank.

Get a basic $40 Moroso flat pan setup out of the Jegs catalog. It comes with foam etc and is very easy to use to seal carb too hood.

Thin Race oil won't hurt anything..just doesn't hold much oil pressure. But it will keep stuff alive with low pressures. great for that last little bit.

No "electronics" means you can't have delay boxes and crossover boxes installed with your trans brake..ahs nothing to do with how you control timing. A high gear retard often helps alot. As I was telling you, I ran one with 55* in 1st and 2nd gear once and then started pulling timing out as it went down the track. You can get a fully progammable setup that will really help when you start spraying it..it will take timing out on the launch to cut wheelspin....add it back in after the 60' mark and start pulling it out again for top end pull. Neat stuff..all the tire limited guys use them.

You will need to cut springs to get it down some. As light as your car is you will need to whack them to get it lower.

For sure a big block is easier....in fact I'm feeling pretty wimpy with my measly 540..everyone is going 600"+ these days it seems! Just think what it could do if built to use race gas instead of 93 octane!

That was the deal with my car...I figured I could go on a diet or build a bigger motor....guess what won? Plus it's still a street cruiser..in fact we took a 250 mile road trip yesterday. Nothing like a nice top down cruising with the wife on a 95* TX day!

JIM

 

The engine was dyno-tuned on the engine dyno but the tuning might be slightly different but I doubt that the tuning is off too much. My spark plugs look perfect. My RPM range might be lower than it could be because my exhaust ports are unported.. Everything else on the heads is ported.. If I'd have the exhaust ports ported, I'd shift the RPM range higher and gain peak HP.. However, I prefer the RPM a little lower and getting a longer life out of the engine. Right now, I couldn't send out any parts like spindles because I can't have the car down for more than a week because I have at least 2 races each month... I'll only be able to do that during the off season from about Dec. 20th to Jan 8th or so...
At this point, I only need .15 better ET.. That's all I want..
I'm sure that I will not get the car into 9's on engine and high 10's in summer is all I need to get the car into 9's with a 150 shot in winter.
10's on engine and 9's on spray is all I want with my current setup. I'm sure that with relatively minor mods, I'll be running 10 in summer and mid 10's in winter.. That's basically all I want with my current setup.. I want this setup to hold up for 2 full seasons (approx. 150 - 200 passes)
and then I'll get myself a big block.. Might even backhalf the car then and get a full cage... If I go with a big block, the goal will be 8's...
I highly doubt that I want to go faster than 8's... especially with a regular frame car... It will also be very expensive to run 7's or lower... which will be too expensive.. even for me.. unless I'd find sponsors...
As of right now, I'm so close to my goals and I'm going to try to just add a few more mods to be in the 10's in summer...

 

gonna e-mail them and check if they'd only sell the upper and lower control arms. The rest of their suspension setup is for road racing and not for drag racing.. There's even a sway bar which definetely has no business on a drag car..
I wonder if their control arms will work with regular springs

 

Jim, I only need very few mods to reach my goals... so I'm only going to pick the least expensive mods for now and will save the extra money towards my 8 second big block fund . I might actually not need any mods, just a good transbrake pass and I could be in the 10's... It doesn't make a difference for me if I run 10.99 or 10.70 in summer or 10.30 or 10.60 in winter.. Only full seconds count for me... and as I said before.. I'm sure that I won't be hitting 9's on engine with a little small block in a full frame car.. but I'll be able to hit 10's and 9's on spray if I actually go through with that...

The lightweight a-arms and front brakes should reduce front end weight by another 100 lbs.. which should make a nice difference...

 

Oliver, those lower control arms can only be used with coilovers. There is no spring pocket for a coil spring. I do not believe the ones listed in that link you had on a previous post were actually for a c3. Also, if you want to borrow spindles or whatever else while you send yours out, I have mine just sitting in the garage. My car is down to the frame right now and I wont be needing anything for a while. Just PM me if you want anything.

 

The front coilovers aren't good for drag racing... They don't extend long enough to get enough weight transfer for the front. Drag cars need to get the front up for maximum weight transfer.. Coilovers are great for handling and road racing, but I doubt that it's the right thing for my setup..
BTW - your spindles won't help me because '68 spindles were different from all other years (actually the bearings on them)

Another one of the beautiful '68 only parts

 

Then just take the whole assembly

 

I won't need it at the moment, but I might at one point..
Thanks for the offer!! BTW - I still have your yoke laying around in my garage...

 

Yeah, I will have to pick that up one day

 

I could also bring it to you.. but if you wanna come and also check out my Vettes, you could stop bye any time that I'm home.. which is usually after 6 PM...

 

I couldn't find the article, don't know the going weight of BBCs but this place sells the parts or engines to produce a caddy/chevy hybrid that weighs about 60 lbs? more than a SBC and can be pumped to around 570 cu in. Thats going a bit high though.
I'm not sure if the weight can be brought down to SB or not, I think it can. They do sell aluminum heads now so that should bring it close.

I think if your interested at all to give them a call since their website is a bit weak.
http://www.cad500parts.com/catalog/index.htm

 

Forgot to ask.. Who sells travel limiters?

 

??? Why do you want the springs to drop the front suspension? Who told you that you need that? You are not running the baha500 where you want the wheels to keep in touch w/ the surface as much as possible going over bumps to get the most traction and contact for steering input..something in your reasoning is wrong. You need something w/ as little movement downward as you can, soft springs yes but not long soft springs and a drooping suspension, as big632 says...travel limiters, easy to make some by drilling and tapping the frame for some droop snubbers that are taller than the stock things.

 

I'll have to find someone that can fabricate those travel limiters for the front suspension.. That definetley sounds like a good idea..
The reason that I want the front to be lower is to reduce drag on the car... It might not make a huge difference for the first 100 feet, but at higher speeds, the drag will be a lot higher if the front of the car is sitting high..
And for front springs.. . In order for the car to sit at the same height, you'll need a longer spring if it has thinner coils (softer) because a softer spring will compress more....
If you look at the Moroso trick drag race springs, the softer you order them, the longer they are...
Springs are rated in lbs/inch..
Let's say you have a 550 lbs/inch coil and 250 lbs/inch coil.. If you'd install a 250 lbs/inch coil that has the same length as the 550 lbs/inch coil, your car will sit way too low because it compresses more... Therefore you need a longer spring if you go with a softer spring rate..

 

missed your post.. I already use a superlight race seat...

 

Yes of course, a 550lbs spring compresses 1" for every 550 pounds and a 250 1" for every 250 so putting the same 550# load on the 250 will compress it 2.2" that's basic spring mechanics and that's just how it works, however that doesn't mean your wheels have to droop all the way to china when they are off the ground, if you use coil overs you don't have the same problem, you can use softer springs and adjsut the collar and have the shock extended length take up the droop you want and then no more.....

 

I doubt that a coilover front setup is suited for drag racing... I spend a lot of time at the drag strip and noone uses coilovers in front... There has to be a reason for that...