When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just put a b/b in my 69 vette. Running a new Dewitt alluminum radiator.180 thermostat, new clutch fan, all rad and support seals in place. The car is a fresh 30 over bore. Tri-power set up.The timing is set a 4 deg bttc.It's running hot 210-220 is this normal for a new b/b to break in so hot?
Thanx Mark
What is the ambient temp when you're seeing 220? What kind of driving? Stop-n-go or freeway?
220F sounds hot to me. My 454 runs 180F (at thermostat). If I drive at low speeds it heats up to 200F where the electric fans come on and it drops back to 180F in a few minutes.
I have a tri-power BB too. Mine runs around 190 when the weather is cool but when it gets above 90 degrees out then mine runs around 210-230 on the interstate or stop and go traffic.
I just put a b/b in my 69 vette. Running a new Dewitt alluminum radiator.180 thermostat, new clutch fan, all rad and support seals in place. The car is a fresh 30 over bore. Tri-power set up.The timing is set a 4 deg bttc.It's running hot 210-220 is this normal for a new b/b to break in so hot?
Thanx Mark
4 deg initial is what is causing you to run hot at idle. It should be more like 12-16 BUT you should get the Lars tuning paper and set your timing as stated in the paper and let the initial end up wherever. Basically Lars says that 36 degrees with vacuum advance disconnect is where you want to be with all of it in by 2500 RPM or so.
Have a 73' 454 vette and was having the same problem. It was running around 200-220. I adjusted the fuel mixture so it wasn't so lean by tighting it until the engine almost failed and then backed it off 1 1/2 turns. Worked perfect. I never go past the 200 mark but stays steady at 180 even on a hot Florida day. Simple fix it may work for you.
4 deg initial is what is causing you to run hot at idle. It should be more like 12-16 BUT you should get the Lars tuning paper and set your timing as stated in the paper and let the initial end up wherever. Basically Lars says that 36 degrees with vacuum advance disconnect is where you want to be with all of it in by 2500 RPM or so.
My .02
Jay
My 468 runs max 210 fahrenheit stop 'n' go. Rad/hood seal is very important.
I just put a b/b in my 69 vette. Running a new Dewitt alluminum radiator.180 thermostat, new clutch fan, all rad and support seals in place. The car is a fresh 30 over bore. Tri-power set up.The timing is set a 4 deg bttc.It's running hot 210-220 is this normal for a new b/b to break in so hot?
Thanx Mark
1.First make sure your are actually running 220 with an IR gun
2.At least 50 % distilled water
3.Vacuum can functioning
4.Lean fuel mixture (mentioned above)
have a 533 cube tri power car...180 thermostat, stock copper radiator, twin spal fans...doesn't matter what type of driving I do...stop and go or freeway...needle is barely past the first mark
I assume the thermostat is opening all the way, if not, that could be your problem...put the thermostat in a pot of boiling water and see it opens or not.
Built 468 here . Running about 150 h.p. over stock ; Dual electric fans from a 1990's LT1 Motor set to come on at 200 off at 185. 180 thermostat. 20 degrees initial. Never goes beyond 200 even if I idle it a long time in hot weather. Ill bet also, that, your motor needs alot more initial timing ; go with 75% distilled water and a bottle of water wetter.
Thanx everyone.
I got with Tom Dewitt at Covettes at Carlisle last weekend. My problem was the aftermarket sending unit. I drained my system and replace the sending unit with one I got from him at the show. The car is running 190 degree's now and that's good for a new motor and being in south Fla.
Thanx Tom