When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That makes sense. In that case, what about taking a flat piece of steel and installing an air fitting on it and a flat piece of rubber where it will contact the master cylinder and just using an air compressor pressurize the system? You'd have to add fluid once in a while of course. . . I think I read an article about doing that once . . . Same idea?
dath,yes you can do this,save the money and take the wife out for a drive.This is how I bleed mine,all by my self.
glad to see someone using their head.
dath,yes you can do this,save the money and take the wife out for a drive.This is how I bleed mine,all by my self.
glad to see someone using their head.
I also do mine with a steel plate, but I use the schwinn bicycle pump for air, too much work to haul the compresser over...
Works great and I don't need intterupt wifies 'chores'
dath,yes you can do this,save the money and take the wife out for a drive.This is how I bleed mine,all by my self.
glad to see someone using their head.
Well, if you have a compressor or the necessary parts, this is great. Of course, you have to keep taking to cover off to ensure that you haven't let the master cylinder bleed down or to add more fluid.
The beauty of the Motive Products bleeder is that it pressurizes the system with clean brake fluid and keeps replenishing the master cylinder. I ran a quart of nice clean fluid through my system with no problems and no stopping except to pump up the pressure occasionally.
Thanks for the info, that article was in fact the same one I read originally. Makes perfect sense to me. I think myself, I'll save the money and build it myself.
I bought the Motive Products bleeder but it leaked all over. It just wouldn't seal the master cylinder. It kept blowing fluid past the rubber seal no matter how tight it was clamped to the master cylinder. I am using Dot 5 silicone so maybe that is why. I eventually gave up and used the two man method (one to pump the pedal and one to bleed at the caliper).
Has anyone had this problem with the Motive Products bleeder and if so, were you able to solve it? I have a '68 so it has the old style metal master cylinders that are kind of oval.
I bought the Motive Products bleeder but it leaked all over. It just wouldn't seal the master cylinder. It kept blowing fluid past the rubber seal no matter how tight it was clamped to the master cylinder. I am using Dot 5 silicone so maybe that is why. I eventually gave up and used the two man method (one to pump the pedal and one to bleed at the caliper).
Has anyone had this problem with the Motive Products bleeder and if so, were you able to solve it? I have a '68 so it has the old style metal master cylinders that are kind of oval.
2 C clamps, one over each reservoir. Also, don't put any fluid in the unit until you pressure test it first. I hook it up empty and pump it up to 20 pounds and then start removing the wheels. If it holds pressure while I do that then I open it up and put in fluid. Sometimes you need to adjust the clamps. When done bleeding, I turn the tank on its side and open the drivers side front bleeder one more time while watching the air gap in the clear hose. When the gap gets to the master cylinder, bleed a little more then stop. No mess.
Mike
Oh yeah, toss those chains and j bolts in the trash!
Well, dropped the $$$ for the Motive Products bleeder. Nice unit.
Ran a quart of fresh fluid through the system. Little air bubbles in the left rear outboard (couple of whacks with the rubber mallet broke them loose). Brakes had felt real good with gravity bleeding but this just a nice tool to have. Besides, got to spend the dollars on something fun.
Almost did the test drive but decided just to drive it work tomorrow. Just getting lazy in my old age.
BTW: Used the CF tip of a 2x4 and C-clamp to hold the reservoir cover on. Worked great.
Wait a dang minute!!!!! Aren't you the same SteveG75 that insisted GRAVITY was the ONE AND ONLY way to bleed brakes??? Aren't you the guy that ragged on me on every post where I recommended power bleeding with the Motive unit????
Now you come out with this post about how great it is?!?!?!?!?
Oh MAN!!!! NO freakin way I am gonna let you slide on this one Stevieboy. Time for you to ease up to the dinner table and order a nice CROW PIZZA!!!!
Wait a dang minute!!!!! Aren't you the same SteveG75 that insisted GRAVITY was the ONE AND ONLY way to bleed brakes??? Aren't you the guy that ragged on me on every post where I recommended power bleeding with the Motive unit????
Now you come out with this post about how great it is?!?!?!?!?
Oh MAN!!!! NO freakin way I am gonna let you slide on this one Stevieboy. Time for you to ease up to the dinner table and order a nice CROW PIZZA!!!!
Dep
Do they gravity bleed the lunar lander??? Note that gravity bleeding will
NOT let you know if you have a weak caliper or brake hose. You might
want to jump into the 21st Century and pick up one of these:
Check the Motive Prroducts Instructions. 10 PSI is what they recommend. All you are doing is forcing fluid through. You WILL NOT find a weak hose or caliper with 10 PSI.
After all brake systems run in the 100's if not 1000's of PSI level. Heck air pressure is 14.7 PSI at sea level.
Originally Posted by DJ Dep
And I will counter that with another
I found two bad calipers by using the Motive bleeder. This mirrors the experiences of MANY others who have used the pressure bleeder.
Sorry....practical results destroy your "theory".
Dep
Originally Posted by SteveG75
Then those were pretty bad calipers. Here is a question for you. Did they leak under gravity bleeding? Did you even try gravity bleeding? If you only do it one way that is not evidence of the fact that your method is the only way to find a leak.
If you did, my bad. I'll just apologize now.
Sounds like I didn't say it was the ONE and ONLY WAY, just a way.
I don't eat pizza but I will have a steak if it is delivered to my house. Of course, you need a car that runs in order to deliver stuff. Ever decide what you are building or how to do it?
Steve:You can twist and turn in the wind, but you AIN'T gonna change what's been posted. So how much did you sell the Gravity Boots for?
Dep
Dep,
Did you even bother to go back and read the thread. Your gravity boots comment was to someone else. If you can post to a link where I said it was the ONE AND ONLY WAY, then I'll eat crow, till then..
BTW, why are using a power bleeder? That is new technology. GM didn't use it in 1969 so there is no reason to use it today.
Come back and talk when your car is running and you need brakes.
Last edited by SteveG75; Aug 18, 2005 at 09:51 AM.
I had trouble sealing my cover to the master as well, I used the C clamp and pumped it up. It still leaked a little pressure out the top, but it maintained from 20-15 lbs for about 10min so I went ahead and blead them and it still worked great.
I think I will not use the chains next time and only use 2 C clamps, but it worked great even thoughit was leaking a little.
Did you even bother to go back and read the thread. Your gravity boots comment was to someone else. If you can post to a link where I said it was the ONE AND ONLY WAY, then I'll eat crow, till then..
BTW, why are using a power bleeder? That is new technology. GM didn't use it in 1969 so there is no reason to use it today.
Come back and talk when your car is running and you need brakes.
You're right...I was talking about/to Toms454 with the gravity boots comment. He's another "gravity proponent". Nice to see you are moving into the 21st Century though.
I use the pressure bleeder because I have no "assisstant" to "pump it up".
But didn't GM have a "special tool" to bleed the brakes, which was a pressure bleeder. I think it is listed in the Service Manual and it was shaped like the top of the master cylinder. You probably can't buy them new any more but I don't really think this is new technology just technology to the masses. Besides, the power bleeder from Motive Products allows a fresh supply of brake fluid so you don't pressure bleed it dry and then you have to start all over again.
Garages have had pressure bleeders since at least the 70s. Maybe before that time. But most mechanics just asked someone nearby to "pump it up". More convenient since they had help readily available.
Plus the brake pumper could take a quick smoke break in the car