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Well, dropped the $$$ for the Motive Products bleeder. Nice unit.
Ran a quart of fresh fluid through the system. Little air bubbles in the left rear outboard (couple of whacks with the rubber mallet broke them loose). Brakes had felt real good with gravity bleeding but this just a nice tool to have. Besides, got to spend the dollars on something fun.
Almost did the test drive but decided just to drive it work tomorrow. Just getting lazy in my old age.
BTW: Used the CF tip of a 2x4 and C-clamp to hold the reservoir cover on. Worked great.
I'm not familiar with the 2x4 and C-clamp trick? Maybe because I don't know about the Motive Products bleeder? Is it a vacuum pump deal that you bleed from the caliper side, or does it someone put pressure on the system from the master cylinder?
Forgive my lack of enthusiasm, as you live too far away to borrow it.
Sounds good Steve. What type of fluid do you run ?
I finally decided (took a long time) on a high boiling point DOT4.
Forgive my lack of enthusiasm, as you live too far away to borrow it.
Sounds good Steve. What type of fluid do you run ?
I finally decided (took a long time) on a high boiling point DOT4.
Standard old DOT3. I change it fairly regularly now and I am also running organic pasds. Good for the street, no squeaks.
I got part #0252 which come with the square plate for our dual masters and a nice round one which will work on my Avalanche. $69.95 at Jegs (Summit was out of stock).
And for the pic (blatantly plagarized from an old thread):
They give you a bunch of J-hooks and chain to hold the cover on. I just used a C-clamp and piece of 2x4 (just imagine a 2x4 instead of the meatl plate in the above pic).
Works great. Took longer to get the wheels off than to bleed the brakes.
That is the USS ABRAHAM LINCOLN (CVN-72). My buddy took that picture from the B/N's seat of an A-6E Intruder but I had that view many times myself (485 total traps, 250 in A-6E Intruders, 235 in EA-6B Prowlers).
So while I'm being too lazy to google things today, can you all answer another question for me? Is this bleeding technique better than using a vacuum pump on the caliper side? I've been tempted to buy one of the mighty vacs or some similar thing as it has other uses as well and would mean that I could bleed the brakes myself. My wife really gets tired of pumping the brake pedal
So while I'm being too lazy to google things today, can you all answer another question for me? Is this bleeding technique better than using a vacuum pump on the caliper side? I've been tempted to buy one of the mighty vacs or some similar thing as it has other uses as well and would mean that I could bleed the brakes myself. My wife really gets tired of pumping the brake pedal
-dath
The vacuum pumps tend to suck air into the system either around the pistons or the bleeder valves. I personally think that pressurizing the system is a much better way of doing it since you are forcing fluid in. It will also help you find defective calipers since they will start leaking when you pressurize the system.
Well, dropped the $$$ for the Motive Products bleeder. Nice unit.
Ran a quart of fresh fluid through the system. Little air bubbles in the left rear outboard (couple of whacks with the rubber mallet broke them loose). Brakes had felt real good with gravity bleeding but this just a nice tool to have. Besides, got to spend the dollars on something fun.
Almost did the test drive but decided just to drive it work tomorrow. Just getting lazy in my old age.
BTW: Used the CF tip of a 2x4 and C-clamp to hold the reservoir cover on. Worked great.
I'm glad to hear this good report because I just ordered this bleeder myself......should arrive in a few days, looking forward to better results than my past "bleeding efforts".......
The vacuum pumps tend to suck air into the system either around the pistons or the bleeder valves. I personally think that pressurizing the system is a much better way of doing it since you are forcing fluid in. It will also help you find defective calipers since they will start leaking when you pressurize the system.
That makes sense. In that case, what about taking a flat piece of steel and installing an air fitting on it and a flat piece of rubber where it will contact the master cylinder and just using an air compressor pressurize the system? You'd have to add fluid once in a while of course. . . I think I read an article about doing that once . . . Same idea?
SteveG75
To deviate once again what are those lights for on the nose gear. I used to watch them for about 4 hours a day.
Techo,
I assume you are talking about the red, amber and green lights. They indicate the angle of attack for the LSO. Angle of attack relates directly to speed of approach when you land Navy style. Basically a repeat of the lights in the cockpit that the pilot can see.
That makes sense. In that case, what about taking a flat piece of steel and installing an air fitting on it and a flat piece of rubber where it will contact the master cylinder and just using an air compressor pressurize the system? You'd have to add fluid once in a while of course. . . I think I read an article about doing that once . . . Same idea?
Probably was this article which I saved for future reference. FWIW.