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That thar is mainly the stock '81 gymkhana suspension!
The pencil thin rear bar and decent sized front bar. The front springs are supposedly like 550 lb. and it has a 9 leaf steel spring in back. KYB gas-a-just shocks in front and Gabriel ultras in the back. (I been cheap thus far) Got polyurethane bushings in the front.
Coil-overs should fix some of the body roll along with the ride height. Definitely need a bigger rear bar.
It doesn't look to me like it's really rolling that bad. Sure, it could be reduced some more but I think ride height and camber are bigger issues. It looks like the outside tires are in positive camber during cornering. More aggressive camber will definitely get you more grip. What are your current camber settings?
Off the top of my head I don't know what ratio my 79 steering box is??? It must be pretty fast ratio because I never really move the wheel that much. I'm going to look it up when i get home unless somebody knows.
You can't really compare ratios to cars with new racing technology.
It would be like comparing my 125 shifter Kart to a riding lawn mower. I've even tried different length steering arms on my kart. Slower tight road coarses and then up to 3.8 mile tracks.
I really considered slower ratio to drive really fast.
It doesn't look to me like it's really rolling that bad. Sure, it could be reduced some more but I think ride height and camber are bigger issues. It looks like the outside tires are in positive camber during cornering. More aggressive camber will definitely get you more grip. What are your current camber settings?
Right now it's only at like .5 to 1 degree negative. I had a ton of negative camber when I had the front suspension rebuilt and had it set to vb&p's autocross baseline. Somehow it has settled a bunch and isn't as negative.
I agree that ride height could probably help a bit, but also the springs and shocks definitely need some help. I'd only go to like a 5/8" rear bar as that back end is rather light and the tail can really get slippery, if you're not careful. Also noticing some understeer in the REALLY tight twisties. That could partially be because I'm not picking the right line, though.
The TPI setup I'm looking at doing should also help, too, though. The first part of the course I was owning on as I could keep it in first gear and pull my weight through the slaloms and chicans, but later I had to move on to 2nd gear and there's really no going back to first safely after that. Possibly a higher stall torque convertor or just better torque from 1500 - 2500 and I could keep the speed up.
Also the last 1/3 of that course was all off camber downhill turns. How do we get our tails to stay in on those?
Not a very good example, roundy round cars. Look @ F1 & Champcars, they have quick ratios.
quick ratio (in fact they are more direct) have 2 big advantages:
-best feeling of "where wheels are"
-i don't need to realse steering wheel to take the right angle for the curve! (and 2hands for a non assist direct steering is not too much)
about body roll and handling! be aware that more you retard sliding of the car more it will be harder to take it in the right way!
How much gas do you run with? I always run a full tank to help keep the rear planted.
Usually pretty close to a full tank. However I don't have the spare tire crap back there and being that it's an '81, the rear differential weighs quite a bit less than yours does.
The weekend of Sept 6th is my next RR event. Cross my fingers and hope that all brake mods keep the oil from cooking. I sent in my resume' and doctors OKay to the SCCA to get my competition license. So I will be good to go at major events.
Originally Posted by 69autoXr
How much gas do you run with? I always run a full tank to help keep the rear planted.
I've heard the same thing from my co-worker with his 496 ci 680 hp 72 road race Vette. As for me, I believe that is only a true statement on sub 50 turns like Auto-X. Anything above that speed and weight is a major hang up.
This summer I tried some new parts: Stahl 1-3/4" headers and side pipes, and switched from a 650 DP Holley to an original LT-1 4555 780 vacuum secondary Holley. The difference in throttle response from the carb change was quite significant. The car was a bit loose after that so I softened my rear shocks a bit and it seemed to help.
After replacing my clutch that was slipping since June, at my next event in October I turned FTD, over a multi-time National Champ in a Ron Fellows C6Z shod with Hoosier A6's, and a trophy-placing SS C5Z also on A6's. This was on my seven-year-old Hoosier street TD bias ply 275's.
The next event was at Gingerman, for which I swapped in a close ratio Muncie (my autocross setup is a wide ratio Muncie w/4.11). I improved my time by about 2.5 seconds. Still about seven seconds off the fully prepped race Vettes, but I did manage to be faster than a few race-tired C4's and C5's.
I finished out the year with an NCCC autocross weekend at Grissom AFB in Peru Indiana, where the only car faster than me (and not by much) all weekend was a gutted C4 with 406 (+?) ci and tires two inches+ wider. I'm running a stock '70 LT-1 engine with headers on 275 width tires.
I finished out the year with an NCCC autocross weekend at Grissom AFB in Peru Indiana, where the only car faster than me (and not by much) all weekend was a gutted C4 with 406 (+?) ci and tires two inches+ wider. I'm running a stock '70 LT-1 engine with headers on 275 width tires.
Do they race there yearly? I live in Indiana and haven't been to too many events, just a few autocross and HPDE days.
I'm trying to get experience, but I didn't really build my car for racing so I don't fit into most classes competatively. I just like to go out and have some fun at tracks where its safe and no chance for tickets. The roads around here are getting too freaking busy. I looked on NCCC website for Indiana and didn't find any rules or regulations. How does NCCC do their events?
Last edited by Jason Staley; Nov 6, 2007 at 07:14 PM.
Do they race there yearly? I live in Indiana and haven't been to too many events, just a few autocross and HPDE days.
I'm trying to get experience, but I didn't really build my car for racing so I don't fit into most classes competatively. I just like to go out and have some fun at tracks where its safe and no chance for tickets. The roads around here are getting too freaking busy. I looked on NCCC website for Indiana and didn't find any rules or regulations. How does NCCC do their events?
There are several weekends at Grissom every year, put on by both NCCC and SCCA. It's a great site, but the abrasive concrete can be hard on tires. NCCC weekends at Grissom can offer up to 28 runs+.
With your mods you'd be in NCCC's exhibition class. Lots of people build their cars the way they like and then decide to go racing, only to find out that they're bumped into one of the highest classes. That's all fine if you're only looking to have fun (first priority), but if you want to be competitive it can be a turn-off to the organization running the event.
NCCC does not have their rules online yet, but they should be soon. If you want, pm me with your email address and I'll send you a pdf copy of the speed event rules.
Yeah, mine was never ment to be a race car. It just slowly developed over the years into a nice street car. It first started out as my daily driver (even saw a few snowy winters), and then progressed into my weekend car after a wreck I had that forced it into retirement for about a year.