steeroids binding on a-arm
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,600
Likes: 0
From: Valencia (near LA) CA
I had to grind the engine mount "horn" also. I also used shorter set screws, but ones that are not too short to also accept a lock nut. Even with the set screw and a lock nut, it still came loose!!!
I have since drowned it in lock-tite. It has beed about two years and it's still tight. I feel a bit safer using lock nut + thread lock.
~Jay
I have since drowned it in lock-tite. It has beed about two years and it's still tight. I feel a bit safer using lock nut + thread lock.
~Jay
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 10
From: Big Pine Key FL
OK, that happend to me too. Pic is worth a thousand words...Horns are the part of the frame up front that we box in to hold the sway bar and front part of the roll cage. What you are talking about is a motor mount. I used a shorter set screw, cut a 35 thou slot in the end and used 32 thou stainless lock wire around the whole deal...
The wire in the slot keeps the set screw from turning and the wire can not move 'cause of the slot....
I dont trust nylocs or locktite !! Its some sort of positive, "inspectabel" locking mechanism for me...
An adaptation of the old if it moves and it shouldn't Duct Tape, Zip Ties, or Saftey Wire, and if it dosent move and it should, WD40, Hot Wrench, or a Bigger Hammer.
The wire in the slot keeps the set screw from turning and the wire can not move 'cause of the slot....
I dont trust nylocs or locktite !! Its some sort of positive, "inspectabel" locking mechanism for me...
An adaptation of the old if it moves and it shouldn't Duct Tape, Zip Ties, or Saftey Wire, and if it dosent move and it should, WD40, Hot Wrench, or a Bigger Hammer.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
or even better yet, tig welded universals. I'm building my custom steering input shaft from weld on universals and bar, not the splined stuff. A plug weld on the side and a nice bead around the shaft and it won't go loose every again. You could do that on one side only so you can still remove the rod end/support bearing by removing the joint that does not bind.
