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This is quite the saga. I think it's time to get back to basics. The one issue that leaves me puzzled is the cam install with the timing marks at 6 and 12. While this may be possible (it's too early to think theory through), every engine I've built (that start every time), I install the cam with the crank and timing marks at their closest point at 12 on the crank and 6 on the cam sprocket. Obviously, this is with the #1 cylinder at TDC. The balancer mark should be at about 1:30 - 2:00 when facing the engine. Forget the timing tab, it's just a piece of tin for now.
Without rotating the engine, install the distributor anyway it drops in. Where the rotor is pointing is now your #1 cylinder on the distributor cap. Rearrange your plug wires 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 (if you have custom wires, you might have to swap a few out to get enough length). Now rotate the distributor an RCH couter clockwise (advanced) and it will start if you have spark and gas.
I think you've got the cam and distributor 180 out. Good luck.
I'm wondering if the rods are hitting the bottom of the cyl. bores
We will soon see. I spent all day today disconnecting everything. Tomorrow the engine comes out for inspection. My worst nightmare is that I don't find anything!
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I have seen some weird things like cranks and camshafts snapped in half, but when you turn it over and the ballancer and the rotor are moving then I don't think that's your problem
"We will soon see. I spent all day today disconnecting everything. Tomorrow the engine comes out for inspection. My worst nightmare is that I don't find anything!"
Could we have a drum roll please?
Last edited by David Ey; Nov 12, 2005 at 12:22 PM.
Nastee 383 - So how did it go? Do you have an update? Is it possible that you need a small base circle cam with your stroker? I don't know too much about different types of cams but I have heard in the past that this can be an issue with small block strokers. I've been following the thread. I hope things work out for you.
Nastee 383 - So how did it go? Do you have an update? Is it possible that you need a small base circle cam with your stroker? I don't know too much about different types of cams but I have heard in the past that this can be an issue with small block strokers. I've been following the thread. I hope things work out for you.
I took the motor out Saturday morning. I haven't done anything else yet except rotate it by hand on the stand trying to feel any unusual resistance and listen for any abnormal noises. I didn't notice or feel anything abnormal. I'm currently trying to locate an engine dyno in this area. I want to see if it runs on the dyno in it's current condition before I start disassembly. Plus I can get a read on what kind of power its making if it runs.
I took the motor out Saturday morning. I haven't done anything else yet except rotate it by hand on the stand trying to feel any unusual resistance and listen for any abnormal noises. I didn't notice or feel anything abnormal. I'm currently trying to locate an engine dyno in this area. I want to see if it runs on the dyno in it's current condition before I start disassembly. Plus I can get a read on what kind of power its making if it runs.
I'm currently trying to locate an engine dyno in this area. I want to see if it runs on the dyno in it's current condition before I start disassembly. Plus I can get a read on what kind of power its making if it runs.
That sounds like an expensive way to see if it runs!
I would degree the cam first. It is a simple procedure and takes little time. If it is in properly with spark the motor should run. D
You do NOT need the distributor in the car to check spark. Hook everything in the ignition up and turn the distributor by hand. Spin if freely in the air with a plug on the ignition coil. It will spark like normal.
Rods or anything hitting will NOT cause the motor not to start. It would start and just rattle.
Degree the cam first.
Haven't done alot this week. I get off work relatively late. But I did pull the oil pan to take a look around. I rotated the motor and visually observed to see if anything was scraping, bent or otherwise messed up. It all appears fine. In fact, the motor looks darn good, H-beam rods, 12 point ARP hardware, clearancing on the pan rails, etc, etc. This was a quick 20 minute or so check but I plan to be more thorough this weekend and take some pics.
The pressure is on now because I pre registered for the Power Tour today and this vehicle IS going with this motor in it.
Haven't done alot this week. I get off work relatively late. But I did pull the oil pan to take a look around. I rotated the motor and visually observed to see if anything was scraping, bent or otherwise messed up. It all appears fine. In fact, the motor looks darn good, H-beam rods, 12 point ARP hardware, clearancing on the pan rails, etc, etc. This was a quick 20 minute or so check but I plan to be more thorough this weekend and take some pics.
The pressure is on now because I pre registered for the Power Tour today and this vehicle IS going with this motor in it.
I can't wait to hear what the issue is that caused the engine not to start..
Nothing worth posting. Work, both kids playing BBall for the high school, wife taking me shopping on the weekend, hospital appts, etc. Not leaving much time to do anything significant.