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Stripped the fuel intake housing on thr Q jet. This is the big one that threads into the carb body and than the fuel intake goes into that. How to fix???
there is the Bubba and a $$$$ way,, the self tappers that have a seal have worked for me,,,I don't put the filter back in there i add a inline on so it never gets oped again, i all ground off the letters that saw filter
It would be best and probably cheaper just to pick up another body. You could use a bunch of JB weld on the threads and force it in. In 99% of the time I trust in JB weld, but in the small chance a leak would develop, you'd be risking an engine fire. Used Q jets are cheap at swapmeets, even on ebay, just check your numbers first.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
If your carb is an early Q-Jet with divorced choke and 7/8-20 inlet threads (not the 1"-20 threads used on the later carbs that have the inlet fitting with the white nylon seal), I can repair the threads. I have all the equipment to correctly thread the carb and install the stainless steel insert. Drop me an e-mail for detailed info and cost on the service.
Lars V8FastCars@msn.com
Stupid question. Is there enough material to use an NPT tap, then install a male pipe to inverted flair adapter?
Much easier and cheaper than the special helicoil.
Gary
Stupid question. Is there enough material to use an NPT tap, then install a male pipe to inverted flair adapter?
Much easier and cheaper than the special helicoil.
Gary
I believe the casting is too thin, and there is not enough depth even if there was enough meat.
Lars has the right equipment for the job to be done properly... toss it his way.
If your carb is an early Q-Jet with divorced choke and 7/8-20 inlet threads (not the 1"-20 threads used on the later carbs that have the inlet fitting with the white nylon seal), I can repair the threads. I have all the equipment to correctly thread the carb and install the stainless steel insert. Drop me an e-mail for detailed info and cost on the service.
Lars V8FastCars@msn.com
Have not done it yet, but can you repair threads on the later (17***etc. series) carbs in case I f**k it up?
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
glen -
I have only invested in the tooling to do the 7/8-20 early threads. As one of the guys noted above, the tooling is pretty expensive, and the 1"-20 threads very seldom strip. So I can only do the early threads.
To help get a little longer life out of your threads, I always recommend to people that they lubricate the threads on the inlet fitting (the big nut) with some LubriPlate or wheel bearing grease prior to installing it. The lube allows you to achieve good torque on the nut with little effort and no galling of the threads - you can just cinch it up lightly and it will seal. This helps prevent the classic thread strip-out.
Lars
glen -
I have only invested in the tooling to do the 7/8-20 early threads. As one of the guys noted above, the tooling is pretty expensive, and the 1"-20 threads very seldom strip. So I can only do the early threads.
To help get a little longer life out of your threads, I always recommend to people that they lubricate the threads on the inlet fitting (the big nut) with some LubriPlate or wheel bearing grease prior to installing it. The lube allows you to achieve good torque on the nut with little effort and no galling of the threads - you can just cinch it up lightly and it will seal. This helps prevent the classic thread strip-out.
Lars
There used to a company called "Thexton" that sold repair kits for those, available through most auto parts stores. Also BlueStreak/Hygrade in their carb kit catalogue.
There used to a company called "Thexton" that sold repair kits for those, available through most auto parts stores. Also BlueStreak/Hygrade in their carb kit catalogue.
I dunno, where is the diy section? I just remember that repair kits for q-jet inlets were readily available at better auto parts jobbers. I sold lots of them back then.