After going through the discussion located here, I have decided that my problem is most likely a bad clutch. My car has absolutely no acceleration from a stop though the engine does seem pretty happy. The car accelerates slightly better when I start to engage the clutch at a low RPM and slowly accelerate. If I hit it hard, the RPMs go through the roof, but the car hardly moves and I smell a distinctive burning/rubbery-like smell (not one I have experienced before.) So, I am pretty sure it is the clutch (unless, of course, you guys can think of something else causing it.)

It is a 69 with a 4 speed and a replacement 305 (I know, I know)…

I have a bunch of questions:

1) When I say I need a new clutch, what exactly does that mean? Does that mean I just need to buy a disc and have it put on? Are there more parts that need to be replaced?
2) What is the difference between a stock replacement and the street/strip or heavy duty versions? Does that mean they last longer?
3) Given that I want to replace the 305 with a decent 350 at some point, will that impact which clutch I should choose?
4) I notice there are a couple different diameters. Which one will I need?
5) How many hours is a standard clutch replacement on a 69?
6) What should I expect in the way of price to have one put on?

I am absolutely not equipped to do this myself, so I will have to take it in to have it done. Due to the standard mark-up on mechanic supplied parts, I would like to purchase what I need in advance and walk in with the part in hand. Anything else I should know? Words of advice? Things to look out for? Please feel free to talk to me like I am an infant since I only marginally understand how these things work.

 

You need a clutch kit. A kit includes clutch disc, pressure plate and throwout bearing. You want a quality piece, but not a race clutch. Zoom, Hayes, RAM, McCleod etc make good street clutches.

Expect 6 hours labor.

 

What Zwede said...

Plus 2 cents more:

I'd ask the installer if it's OK with him that you buy the parts first from your preferred sources. He might balk, or he may be able to get a better price than you can for the same items. Racing clutches may have heavier springs and be more grabby than stock clutches which might make it harder to drive smoothly on the street (might be a problem, might not). Small blocks shipped with 2 sizes, 10.5 and 11 inches as I remember. I'd go with whatever you have in there now. It's only about $20 to have the flywheel resurfaced, so I'd have it done while everything's apart. Also, you might also get a new pilot bearing (cheap).

Here's an interesting link...
Clutch Basics

 

There is nothing wrong with the stock clutch. Upgrade to heavy duty if you think you will someday upgrade your engine to more than ~350hp. Better to do it right one time.

While you're there you may want to consider a scatter shield instead of the stock bellhousing. A scatter shield will contain the flywheel & clutch in case of a catastrophic failure, preventing your feet from being cut off. I don't know how much hp would call for a scatter shield, they are pricey too.

It is important to have your flywheel resurfaced. This is when a machine shop smooths the surface that the clutch mates to. Costs about $30 to have it done. Clutch manufacturers often do not warranty the clutch unless the flywheel has been resurfaced.

old clutch & flywheel................................ .......................new clutch & resurfaced flywheel

 

It's also possible that you have an oil leak from the engine that leaks onto the clutch. If this is the case it has to be fixed before the new clutch is installed or the new one will be ruined immediately. Best way to check this is to remove the tranny and old clutch and the mechanic will be able to see if there is a leak.

 

Zwede brings up a good point. The clutch in my Camaro was destroyed because the previous owner rebuilt the trans, and did not use care putting it back together. The Muncie transmissions have a large nut on the front with a tapered surface. This surface seals against the bearing retainer. Most people don't have the wrench for this nut, so they use a chisel to get it off. This can be OK, if the taper is cleaned up with a file so the taper is smooth. If not, you end up with a clutch covered in burned gear oil. Once it's covered with burned oil, you have to replace the disc and have the flywheel and pressure plate resurfaced.

I went with a Luk kit when I rebuilt the Corvette. It has handled my stock big block just fine. Whether or not you need a heavy duty clutch dependent on how you drive, as well as the torque/HP you have.

Ken

 

Thanks for all the info. Based on what you guys have said, I am not too worried about needing a heavy duty clutch. Given that it is a 305 now and will likely not be anything more than 350hp when I switch to a 350, I am guessing a stock replacement will be fine. The closest thing I get to racing is jumping off a red light a little too quickly just.

Before I saw all your replies, I ran across the street and they quoted me $485 + tax for the whole job. Didnt ask about having the flywheel resurfaced. Sound somewhere in the ballpark?

And thanks for the heads up on the oil leak.