Lars is pure talent and magic!!!
Words could not describe the difference when he redid my q-Jet

 

As you guys can see from all this, it also goes to show the importance of testing everything you rebuild on these cars: Some of these problems are just not obvious, and the parts cannot be set up correctly without actually test-running the stuff to find the problems. If I didn't actually install the parts on my own car and take them out and flog them for a while, I'd be known as the worst carb builder in the country..!

 

Instead of the worst carb builder in the country... lars is known as... "Ye who wears out female intake manifold threads."

Heard it here first...

 

ZD -
Actually, that's no joke...

After having run over 500 different carbs on my car, I have actually worn out the mounting threads in my intake manifold. I've now installed stainless steel Keenserts in my Victor manifold, and I now use studs in my Q-Jet adapter plate in order to eliminate the female thread wear problem. I have fabricated a "change-over kit" that allows me to swap from Q-Jet to Holley and BG in a matter of minutes, and I have worn out several sets of hard fuel lines with all the carb swaps.

By the way, ZD... how did you know that I had worn out my manifold threads...? Did I tell you that, or did you just assume that I must have?

 

that would be a good guess

 

I just assumed...

Run a thread in and out a million times, and they get old and worn out like us!

 

Ted's parts are in the mail... we'll have to wait and see how they run for him.

 

cool waiting to hear

 

Lars,

Please advise on payment due and I'll initiate the payment today.

 

Simply amazing thread...I got nothing else to say.

 

I didnt know Lars will rebuild your carb for you. How do you go about getting this done? Does he have set prices? Thanks,
Hef

 

 

Got a note from Lars on the total bill. Was expecting something in neighborhood of $500-600. To my surprise, under $400 including shipping. This is an incredible value and I highly recommend Lars' services to others that require carb/distrib repairs.

The total charges and repairs performed (Lars, I reformatted):

Lars Grimsrud Date: 2/21/2006
Musclecar Restoration, Parts & Service
In Partnership with SVE Restoration

Vehicle Info:
'69 Corvette Coupe
350/350hp
M21
4.10 diff
Stainless chambered exhaust
K&N air filter
Otherwise stock

Carb Labor:
Set up & Test Carb complete $100.00
Carb# 7029207 ('69 Vette 350/325)
Carb is jetted as follows:
Primary jets: 66
Primary rods: 36
Secondary Rods: "BG"
Secondary Rod Height: 41/64"
Float Level: .375"
Idle mixture screws: 2-1/2 turns
Secondary windup: 3/4 turn
Repair stripped carb fuel inlet $50.00
Install 2 throttle shaft bushings $50.00

Distributor Labor:
Rebuild distributor complete.
Disassembly, hot-tank, blue-
print assembly, paint & detail,
Standard fee for Kwik Curve
installation & distributor
clean/detail/setup $75.00

TOTAL LABOR $275.00

Parts:
Qty/Description/Price
1 Carb Kit Incl
1 Nitrofill Float Incl
1 Secondary lockout lever $5.00
1 Choke Pulloff $15.00
1 Fast Idle Cam $5.00
1 Kwik Curve Kit Incl
1 Points Incl
1 Condenser Incl
1 Primary Lead Wire $5.00
1 Distributor lead wire grommet $3.00
1 Grease well seal $5.00
1 set Cross gear, bushing & washer,
matched set w/shipping $51.97

TOTAL PARTS $89.97


TOTAL SHIPPING $24.40

GRAND TOTAL $389.37

The following problems were noted and corrected:
Carb:
Primary throttle shaft loose - worn out
Stripped fuel inlet
Missing lockout lever
Damaged fast idle cam
Secondary throttle opens over-center
Throttle shaft choke break tang bent
Secondary throttle rod bent
Power piston set too deep (lean)
Incorrect choke pulloff
Float too high
Loose throttle plate
Dist:
Bushings not aligned
Damaged drive gear thrust washer
Damaged primary wire
Missing cross gear components
Excessive end play

 

Will post results once I install...

 

Received the parts today in record time considering Lars shipped from CO on Tues. Lars carefully encased/sealed everything in commercial plastic bagging in addition to the packing material (popcorn) that was in the box.

In the pkg: The carb, distributor, fuel inlet line, removed parts, fresh base gasket and instructions. Also the old cap/rotor. I see that USPS managed to mash the rotor thoroughly. I needed fresh cap/rotor anyway...

Installation begins this afternoon.

This is just like Christmas. Those parts that I will not be using will stay in their sealed bags in my '69 Take-offs box'.

Yipee!!! Can't wait to fire her up.

 

Carb and distributor mounted on the car.

Carb: Missing the choke lever that attaches to the coiled metal 'thing' mounted on the intake on passenger side of intake below carb.

Lars, do you have a spare one of these? If not, I'll need to find one.

Distributor: Due to the tach cable, I am unable to position the distributor in the engine according to Lars' diagram. Although, I am able to nearly align the #1 cap terminal with the rotor without completely binding the tach cable (what a nuisance and makes me wonder of that 90 degree elbow device would be of value?). Am using 6 degrees BTDC of static timing (Service Manual calls for 4 BTDC) at the harmonic damper and am using Lars' approach of setting based on behavior of the #1 cylinder rocker arms (ie. once they stop moving (valves closed) and timing mark at the proper mark on the timing tab, I can drop the distributor into the engine @ #1 spark plug terminal of dist cap.

Another question regarding the distributor has to do with the ohm meter test. I'm not an electrician but I am wonder if my readings were reversed from Lars' direction or else my very limited understanding of continuiting may be contributing (ie. what I see is not what I think I see). Anyway, After I make the ohm meter connections as directed, I find that when I turn the distributor base clockwise, it reaches a point where the needle drops to 0 ohms. If I turn it counterclockwise, the needle jumps and I see a reading on the ohm meter. Is this correct? I attempted to set the distributor base such that right when I get a reading (> 0 ohms) after turning the distributor counter clockwise, I stop and secure it (and ensure the cap and rotor still align. If not aligned, I make the necessary 'installation' adjustments to the distribtor to align the cap and rotor at #1 plug where I get the appropriate continuity reading according to Lars instructions (ie, just before the reading drops to 0).

So, at the risk of showing my lack of electrician skills, if there is no resistance (does 0 ohms mean there is no resistance?), does that mean the points have formed a circuit (closed) and does measured resistance (does > 0 ohms mean there is resistance?) mean the points have broken the circuit (opened) causing resistance. This was all measured with one lead of the ohm meter connected to the disconnected distributor wire (the one that attaches to the '-' pole of the coil) and the other ohm meter wire touching any metal surface of the engine. Oh, by the way, my Father in Law gave me the ohm meter as a gift when he got a new one... I just followed the directions provided with the meter and those provided by Lars.

Also, appears I managed to screw up my accelerator cable at the pedal as the accelerator pedal no longer activates the carb. Verified the carb is at 'idle' position so it isn't sticking wide open.

 

Lars instructed me to look in the bags of parts included and I found the choke rod and have since installed it.

The 68-74 corvette point style distributor install instructions are included in Lars setup/install instr's; I just didn't turn enough pages. Am referring to them now. The modified instructions provide guidance on setup with consideration to the tach cable (to avoid binding it).

Charging the battery at the moment and will be bumping the engine around the firing order to return to 6 degrees BTDC at #1, align the rotor at #1 and confirm my ohm readings.

Oh, and I gotta fix that darn accelerator pedal that came apart from the cable.