Holley Carb Question
I am posting in the technical section because it is engine related.
I have a Holley carb on my 73 454. How do I identify it? I think it is a 4175, but I dont know the CFM rating for it. I am looking for numbers and serial numbers, and can only find the ones shown. Also, there are two large spots of what looks like JB weld covering up the areas where the adjustment screw or nut should be.
Any help on identifying this carb, 4175 or other, and how to determine the CFM rating would be appreciated.
kdf
Passenger side view

Top down view

This has a number on it. fY18B99





Lars
Thanks Lars,
This is the carb that I wrote to you about recently. I am trying to get all the information to you so that I would know what it is I am sending!
I looked through my Holley book last night and the best I could match it up to was the 4175. If its the wrong CFM, then sending it to you to work on would not fix the problem of it being the wrong size to begin with.
Thank you for the information on the location. I will get this number tonight when I get home.
kdf





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As the guys have noted above, the 7002-1 is a 650 cfm 4175 (spread bore) carb. That's a little small for a performance application on a big block. The only advantage that carb has is that it is a direct-replacement for the spread bore Q-Jet (which is 750 cfm), so it fits the stock manifold, and you have no hood clearance issues. If you are not concerned about maximizing peak performance and just want the car running well, the carb will run fine once correctly set up. The stock Q-Jet will probably provide a better level of performance.
Thank you for your input. I do have some type of clearance issues with this carb.
The carb is sitting on a 1/2 inch thick phenolic gasket. This is needed in order to gain clearance due to the throttle linkage hitting the intake manifold.

The linkage hangs down below the carb. In order to gain clearance the previous owner installed a 1/2 thick black phenolic gasket between the intake manifold and the carb. This gives the clearance needed for the linkage, but will not allow the ring that fits on top of the air cleaner, or the air cleaner to hood seal/gasket that is used on 73-75 air filters.
I was looking at it and think that I can take the linkage off and turn it upside down, which would give me the clearance, and then I can remove the 1/2 thick gasket, and allow me to use the air cleaner ring and gasket again.
But then I will still have a 650cfm carb on a 750cfm stock carb spec engine. So I think I will start looking for a 750 CFM qjet carb first in order to a) get the correct CFM carb, and b) get the stock engine look, although not numbers matching.
Also, any idea on why there is the large glob of metal/JB weld on top of the bowls? Shouldnt that have some type of screw on it to help with the float adjustments?

Thank you,
KDF
FYI- since the return spring is at the top of the throttle arm you could remove some of the lower section to give you manifold clearance since yours appears to be manual car with no kick-down linkage.





The big block manifold is known for throttle lever interference. The Q-Jets used on the big blocks had the lower part of the throttle arm cut off at the factory in order to clear the manifold. I can always tell when someone sends me a small-block Q-Jet that is being used on a big block, because the throttle arm has had the lower part bent to crap. Just cut off the lower part of the throttle arm just like the factory did and relocate the return spring to the top of the lever.
The JBWeld is sealing off the plugs in the bowl. Your carb does not have externally-adjustable float levels, so Holley put steel plugs in the top. These will sometimes seep fuel, so people seal them off with JB.
Sounds like an easy fix. I can remove the bottom part of the linkage, take out the 1/2 inch phenolic spacer below the carb, put the carb back on, add the air cleaner ring to the top of the air cleaner, and finally install the air cleaner to cowl induction hood seal.
Sounds great.
Thanks for your help. Photos of the completed job should be up by Sunday.
KDF.
I would remove the JB weld and fine out why its there.
There is a gasket washer under the screw head and one under the adjustment nut.
The motor would like a manual secondary carb with a manual trans, the one you have is a vacuum secondary.
If it a 650 I would put on a 780 1450 Holley.
Locar makes a real nice throttle linkage setup that hooks up opposite with the cable on top.
Be thankful the carb isn't leaking through the float plugs, accelerator pump cavities or the bowl mounting screws. Leave as is and enjoy.
Dave
I think I will leave it as is until I get a 750 cfm Q-Jet. I was looking at the Ecklers catalog and found P/N A5924 Rochester Qjet for 1971-72 454 or P/N A5929 for 1974 454. $270 - $295.
There is no part number for a 1973 454 engine. I think the 1974 should be similar becasue of the EGR valve requirement.
kdf
i've had several of these series carbs (vacuum and double pumper secondaries) and have experienced them leaking though the plug and have fixed them the same way.
Dave





Dave is right - that 4175 does not have a float adjuster, and it's not a center-hung float. The float can only be adjusted be removing the float bowl and bending the float arm. The location where the external adjuster is normally located has a steel press-in plug installed there by Holley - similar to a freeze plug - and this steel plug will often leak. Standard fix for a "weeping" bowl plug is to JBWeld it.
IM the one that should have looked at the picture's better.
One can see it doe's not have any float adjustment.
Plus the plug is next to the metering plate.
I agree the standard fix for a "weeping" bowl plug is to JBWeld it.













