TKO-600 Install Question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 132
Likes: 1
From: Diamondhead MS
TKO-600 Install Question
I'm purchasing a TKO-600 for my 69 SB Coup,e and the instruction say to loosen the exhaust manifold bolts. I assume this is to allow the engine to angle down to install the transmission. I have headers and I wondering if the bolts have to be removed completely or lossened enough create some movement. Any other hints about installing this would be welcome.
PS This whole job started out to install Vintage Air, but while the dash is apart I may as well strip the interior and insulate, put carpet, new seat covers, re-dye the panels etc. Oh and while the dash and console are off may as well swap the 4 speed for a TKO-600.
PS This whole job started out to install Vintage Air, but while the dash is apart I may as well strip the interior and insulate, put carpet, new seat covers, re-dye the panels etc. Oh and while the dash and console are off may as well swap the 4 speed for a TKO-600.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,640
Likes: 287
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
I had hooker sidepipes on mine, so I didn't have to loosen from engine. Just removed the pipes. After doing mine, if it had stock exhaust, I think it would help more if you dropped the exhaust pipes and even the intermediate pipe that goes through the x-member. Things are REALLY tight when trying to install the trans, so the more stuff that's out of the way, the better. gkull, nice looking Vette.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 132
Likes: 1
From: Diamondhead MS
I have the same thing, Hooker sidepipes. So it sounds like I'll pull the pipes as well and that should allow the engine to drop down.
One question I keep debating is pulling the engine and installing on the ground or leaving the engine in and doing it the air. I do have a four post lift and high tranmission jack. After going through it would you still leave the engine or pull it?
One question I keep debating is pulling the engine and installing on the ground or leaving the engine in and doing it the air. I do have a four post lift and high tranmission jack. After going through it would you still leave the engine or pull it?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,640
Likes: 287
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
If you have a lift and trans jack you should be good to go. All I had was jack stands and it was difficult. If I had it to do over again, I'd pull the motor and install as a unit. The attached thread has a few more observation. Good luck.
Gary
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...hlight=keisler
Gary
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...hlight=keisler
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I did the auto to manual conversion. So I had quite a bit more to do.
I had no problem mounting the tranny to the motor and bell housing in the car.
I bought the blow proof bell housing with the 11 inch 22 pound billet steel 168 tooth 11 inch fly wheel. I mounted the bell housing and did the run out check. I had the Motown 427 small block at the time and it was near perfect alignment.
The problem was the McLeod steel bell housing was so exact in machining that i could not get the tranny into to bell housing. So I had to take it down and use fine sand paper to remove the paint on the inner bell housing to tranny surface.
Then my 427 small block blew up within a short period of time. So i had to pull the 427 ci and install my spare 383.
I could not get the 383 to mate to the installed TKO 600. Even with a motor leveling device on the engine hoist. We tried everything!
So we (fellow CF member) pulled the tranny and installed the motor. then installed the bell housing and last the tranny.
My advice is order Amsoil tranny fluid. It's cheaper and better than the GM syncromesh stuff that i bought. At my rip off local Chevy dealer it was $38 for three quarts with tax. It actually only requires @ 2.8 quarts to fill to the overflow mark.
I had no problem mounting the tranny to the motor and bell housing in the car.
I bought the blow proof bell housing with the 11 inch 22 pound billet steel 168 tooth 11 inch fly wheel. I mounted the bell housing and did the run out check. I had the Motown 427 small block at the time and it was near perfect alignment.
The problem was the McLeod steel bell housing was so exact in machining that i could not get the tranny into to bell housing. So I had to take it down and use fine sand paper to remove the paint on the inner bell housing to tranny surface.
Then my 427 small block blew up within a short period of time. So i had to pull the 427 ci and install my spare 383.
I could not get the 383 to mate to the installed TKO 600. Even with a motor leveling device on the engine hoist. We tried everything!
So we (fellow CF member) pulled the tranny and installed the motor. then installed the bell housing and last the tranny.
My advice is order Amsoil tranny fluid. It's cheaper and better than the GM syncromesh stuff that i bought. At my rip off local Chevy dealer it was $38 for three quarts with tax. It actually only requires @ 2.8 quarts to fill to the overflow mark.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,640
Likes: 287
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
If you have an auto and are swaping in a TKO, your cross member will come out. 4 Speed cars are welded in. W/O the xmember to get in the way, installation would be easy w/o pulling the engine.
Gary
Gary
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Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Originally Posted by BFowlkes
Mine is a factory 4 speed. So I'll have to work around the welded in support.
I think that I would cut the crossmember out and make it removable.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: knoxville tn
[
My advice is order Amsoil tranny fluid. It's cheaper and better than the GM syncromesh stuff that i bought. At my rip off local Chevy dealer it was $38 for three quarts with tax. It actually only requires @ 2.8 quarts to fill to the overflow mark.[/QUOTE]
not taking anything away from gkull but Tremec recommends that you only use gm syncromesh we have had customers use other alternatives with poor results i.e. shifting problems. that's just my 2 cents
My advice is order Amsoil tranny fluid. It's cheaper and better than the GM syncromesh stuff that i bought. At my rip off local Chevy dealer it was $38 for three quarts with tax. It actually only requires @ 2.8 quarts to fill to the overflow mark.[/QUOTE]
not taking anything away from gkull but Tremec recommends that you only use gm syncromesh we have had customers use other alternatives with poor results i.e. shifting problems. that's just my 2 cents
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Originally Posted by GENE-KEISLER SALES
Tremec recommends that you only use gm syncromesh we have had customers use other alternatives with poor results i.e. shifting problems. that's just my 2 cents
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/mtf.aspx
I also use the better synthetic motor and rearend oils.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: knoxville tn
My advice is order Amsoil tranny fluid. It's cheaper and better than the GM syncromesh stuff that i bought. At my rip off local Chevy dealer it was $38 for three quarts with tax. It actually only requires @ 2.8 quarts to fill to the overflow mark.[/QUOTE]
sorry didn't see that in the description. Wasn't as transparent to me
just amsoil tranny fluid makes no metion of syncromesh or additive's
thank you for the correction
sorry didn't see that in the description. Wasn't as transparent to me
just amsoil tranny fluid makes no metion of syncromesh or additive's
thank you for the correction
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 3
From: Halifax, NS, Canada
Just wanted to say it is nice having Gene here on the forum. My kit was shipped out on Friday so I should finally have it by the end of the week. I was using Gene as my go between Corvette Central and Keisler. Thanks Gene for looking after me.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 4
From: Somers CT
Originally Posted by gkull
I think that I would cut the crossmember out and make it removable.