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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 06:38 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by 682XLR8
Box looks good Al How do you secure it? I need to build another box for my 68, the one I have takes up too much room, as I am running Polk Audio components and a single 10" sub.

While all you car stereo guys are online, I have a question. I'm going to buy an older Alpine unit (7164 three poster) from another forum member to put in my 68. I pulled the wiring diagram from Alpines website, which includes what was called back in the 80's a DIN plug. This plug is used to directly connect to an external amp. I noticed the wiring description of this plug that it shares a common ground for the speakers. Now the instructions for my amp(Kenwood KAC-749) state that "sharing speaker wiring may cause this unit to fail". So my question is, can the wiring from the stereo be adapted somehow to work with this amp? Thanks in advance guys

I assume you have at least minimal stereo experience before getting into a setup like?

First, you're going to save yourself a lot of time by running your own wires. You can use the stock wires in the harness, but terminate them yourself and don't rely on the adapter plug.

As far as the speakers, you only want a pos/neg wire going from a source to a speaker. The ONLY time a speaker can share a wire is if you're running more than one speaker in aprallel or series. That's it. On that note, it is VERY important to get the phase correct. As in pos to pos and neg to neg on the speakers and amp.

Question. Are you amping the Polk speakers or just the sub? If the Polks are gonna be run from the head unit you will have poopy sound. That Alpine will only give each speaker 15-17 watts RMS per channel, and those speakers will want somewhere closer to 100 watts RMS. You would do well to find a nice amp to power the Polks.

The head unit is best used as a signal processor. Meaning, the only thing coming out of it should be the RCAs going to the amps. Give it a 12V constant, usually yellow. Then an ign source, usually red. Blue with a white stripe is a rmote wire to turn on the amps, and a blue solid wire is for the power antenna you probably have. Then it gets the antenna signal cable, and the RCAs leaing to the amps. Front channel should go to the amp powering the Polks, and the non-fade RCAs should go to the sub amp.

Then run wires from the amps to their respective speakers, and test everything. A note for installing amps. Don't skimp on power. Never use less than 8 gauge for an amp, and 4 is better for upgrading purposes. Also, the ground MUST be the same gauge as the power wire, and fed to a good ground on either the frame or the chassis. The ground wire should stay under 2 feet in length. Don't share ground either, each amp must have it's own ground. You can share power but through a fused distribution block, and make sure you have a fused link close to the battery and close to the dist block.

Anything I missed?
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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 07:23 PM
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Yep, you about covered it

The system is already installed using the Kenwood amp and Polk speakers, with the front 4x6's being powered by the head units internal amp. I installed it, so I know the wiring is right, although an experienced installer would probably have done a couple things differently.
I had planned on replacing the Custom Autosound unit with the Alpine. I've owned Alpines in the past, but as they don't make the three post design anymore, I will install a good used on instead if I can get around the common negative issue with the speakers. I know I can't just connect them and hope nothing smokes, that's why I'm asking if there is any other way around it, an adapter maybe, or something I can solder into the negative wires to prevent any feedback from getting into the amp(Here's where my knowledge of electronics starts getting really bad )
Anyway, you answered my question, if there's no way to do it, then I'll stick with what I have for now. Thanks for the help!
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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 682XLR8
Yep, you about covered it

The system is already installed using the Kenwood amp and Polk speakers, with the front 4x6's being powered by the head units internal amp. I installed it, so I know the wiring is right, although an experienced installer would probably have done a couple things differently.
I had planned on replacing the Custom Autosound unit with the Alpine. I've owned Alpines in the past, but as they don't make the three post design anymore, I will install a good used on instead if I can get around the common negative issue with the speakers. I know I can't just connect them and hope nothing smokes, that's why I'm asking if there is any other way around it, an adapter maybe, or something I can solder into the negative wires to prevent any feedback from getting into the amp(Here's where my knowledge of electronics starts getting really bad )
Anyway, you answered my question, if there's no way to do it, then I'll stick with what I have for now. Thanks for the help!

What do you have powering the sub?
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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 07:44 PM
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The same amp. Using the A side for the mids/tweeters and the B side is bridged for the sub.
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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 07:50 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by 682XLR8
The same amp. Using the A side for the mids/tweeters and the B side is bridged for the sub.

Okay. Have you thought about getting a nice 2 channel to run the Polks and use the 4 channel bridged to run the sub? That's assuming the the amp is stable at that ohm load.
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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 08:12 PM
  #66  
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Tried to scan the amp specs for you, but it didn't come out legibly.

The amp I'm using is described as two amps in one, with amp B meant to be bridged. If I bridged both A and B, whoa, that's way more power than I need! I'm not out to rattle windows or teeth fillings, just after clean sound.

It's the Kenwood KAC-749S in case maybe you've dealt with them before.
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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 08:34 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by 682XLR8
Tried to scan the amp specs for you, but it didn't come out legibly.

The amp I'm using is described as two amps in one, with amp B meant to be bridged. If I bridged both A and B, whoa, that's way more power than I need! I'm not out to rattle windows or teeth fillings, just after clean sound.

It's the Kenwood KAC-749S in case maybe you've dealt with them before.

I've installed many Kenwood amps but not the 749S. And the most important part is that you're happy with your system. If you're happy then you succeeded ten times over. Good job.
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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 08:55 PM
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Randy, I'll take the easy question. The box is just right in size to fit in the rear compartment and can't move sitting on the carpet as far sliding, AL.
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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 08:58 PM
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Thanks I'm far from an expert, but I do OK

With this system, should I upgrade the alternator? I noticed at idle, with the stereo turned up maybe halfway, the lights dim slightly with each punch of the sub. I'm running an alternator w/ an internal regulator, one I picked up at the local parts store.
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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 09:10 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by 682XLR8
Thanks I'm far from an expert, but I do OK

With this system, should I upgrade the alternator? I noticed at idle, with the stereo turned up maybe halfway, the lights dim slightly with each punch of the sub. I'm running an alternator w/ an internal regulator, one I picked up at the local parts store.

Yes, even with a small stereo system, it's drawing more amps than the old low idle amp alt can produce. For your Vette I would suggest upgrading to the CS144. There is a huge thead on this on the first page of Tech, and you'll learn everything you need to know from that and searching. I don't know exactly how to deal with the external regulator but I know that a CS144 will handle your needs even at idle.
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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 09:28 PM
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Took a look at the thread, sounds like that's what I'll need.
The external regulater was chucked a long time ago, and the wiring modified to accept the internal type, it's what I'm running now. One less hurdle to overcome when I upgrade.

Thanks for all your help Durango boy!

Al sorry for the long hijack, I owe you a case of California's best


You can collect it at the 68 reunion
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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 09:46 PM
  #72  
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make sure you get a 3-wire alt...... the 1 and 2 wire ones have issues that aren't good for a daily driver/weekend cruiser vette......
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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 10:18 PM
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Sure will. I see another winter project in the works
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by onaqwst
make sure you get a 3-wire alt...... the 1 and 2 wire ones have issues that aren't good for a daily driver/weekend cruiser vette......

Like what issues?
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 09:01 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by 682XLR8
Took a look at the thread, sounds like that's what I'll need.
The external regulater was chucked a long time ago, and the wiring modified to accept the internal type, it's what I'm running now. One less hurdle to overcome when I upgrade.

Thanks for all your help Durango boy!

Al sorry for the long hijack, I owe you a case of California's best


You can collect it at the 68 reunion
Randy, no problem, all ways interesting reading on this Forum . I have a real love for killer tunes as you may have seen in my post on my little 84 restored daily driver Buick wagon. The idea on on the Corvette stemed from keeping the stock radio and using 10 Ohm speakers and have it look like part of the car and I think we are there! There is not much room in these car and seeing the performance system has been interesting , AL.
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 09:04 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by IDOXLR8
Randy, no problem, all ways interesting reading on this Forum . I have a real love for killer tunes as you may have seen in my post on my little 84 restored daily driver Buick wagon. The idea on on the Corvette stemed from keeping the stock radio and using 10 Ohm speakers and have it look like part of the car and I think we are there! There is not much room in these car and seeing the performance system has been interesting , AL.

Hey by the way did you restore that emblem or buy it new?
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Hey by the way did you restore that emblem or buy it new?
I bought it new and had it on the car then found Dotor Rebuild had the 100% correct ones, so I biught them. I repainted the the one because GM was putting these out with the wrong color red so I repainted it the correct colors and use that one one the box, AL.
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 09:12 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by IDOXLR8
I bought it new and had it on the car then found Dotor Rebuild had the 100% correct ones, so I biught them. I repainted the the one because GM was putting these out with the wrong color red so I repainted it the correct colors and use that one one the box, AL.

That seems familiar. Did I already ask you that?
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 09:15 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
That seems familiar. Did I already ask you that?
I think you did but not a problem , AL.
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 682XLR8
Took a look at the thread, sounds like that's what I'll need.
The external regulater was chucked a long time ago, and the wiring modified to accept the internal type, it's what I'm running now. One less hurdle to overcome when I upgrade.

Thanks for all your help Durango boy!

Al sorry for the long hijack, I owe you a case of California's best


You can collect it at the 68 reunion

They sell that Sierra Nevada Pale at a bar here I think, I've seen it at Old Chicago. I didn't try it since I usually don't like pale ales...but it's cool we have soem west coast beer here in the centrals.
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