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On page 3 of my restoration, I have photos and directions on U-Joint replacement. I used a cut off wheel and my compressor to 1st cut the U-Joint centers out, leaving the rusted caps in the flanges. I was then able to knock the caps inward with a socket and mall. I had to do it this way due to the retaining clips being rusted in place.
I don't believe in pressing at all. I take my cutting torch and burn the X out of the ujoint. I then take a air chissel and while the joint is till hot walk the caps out of the flange. I then take a small flapper wheel and polish the bore's in the flange, use a small file to remove any burrs and clean the grooves.
I then place the 1/2 shaft in the vise, lube the bores really well and then with a small brass hammer walk the caps on.
No force is used, the caps actually almost push in with finger press only
Take heed men, this is the correct proceedure. Using presses, vices, sockets or whatever will only collapse the yokes. There is more to this job than beating the hell out of the joints with the BFH and thats why our shop gets $30.00 per joint after Bubba gets them.
Batman,
The way Norval does it is the best way! Polish the insides of the flanges and the u-joints will go in with slight pressure. Ease the flanges back out to their original position and the clips will go in! Ask me how I know!
Bernie
The caps slid into the bores fairly easily - the only problem is that they don't quite sit far enough down to get the clips in easily. I'll tackle the problem again this afternoon.
The caps slid into the bores fairly easily - the only problem is that they don't quite sit far enough down to get the clips in easily. I'll tackle the problem again this afternoon.
I bought my U-joints from MidAmerica and I had to grind on two of the caps get the clip in. As I said in my post on page 1, it only takes a few thousands to prevent the clip from fitting into the groove.
I messed up one U-joint that didn't fit correctly, the needles fell out and I couldn't find all of the needles..... great, went to AutoZone and bought one "BruteForce" U-joint. That U-joint fit perfectly without any problems.... go figure...
Who manufacturer's the U-joints are you installing? I heard that Dana/Spicer U-joints fit exactly with no room for error. So if you bend a flange they will not fit. Other manufacturer's such as TRW have extra room to play with, go figure.
Update:
I just did some messing around with the joints. My drive flanges are bolted to the splined section that goes on the spindle, so they are absolutely flat. Clips still won't go in. I'm going to take some fairly coarse sandpaper, stick the clips to a block of hardwood with double-stick tape, and thin them down a bit. The joints aren't binding, nothing's bent...the stupid clips just WONT GO IN!
Batman try slipping a .030 feeler gauge in between the 2 flanges then tighten them together and in essence bow the u-joint flange backwards there by spreading the cup ears-then you can drive them in further.Also use a small hammer with lots of small hits to move the cups---A big hammer only bends and flexes the flange and then it springs back.
Last edited by ...Roger...; Sep 22, 2006 at 09:07 PM.
Batman try slipping a .030 feeler gauge in between the 2 flanges then tighten them together and in essence bow the u-joint flange backwards there by spreading the cup ears-then you can drive them in further.
Tried that, got a bit of back-bow to the flange. The clips still won't go in. The caps are compressed as far as they can be. They still move fine. The freakin' clips just won't go in.
I think at this point grinding the clips is the only solution I have. I'll keep an eye on them, and if the clips seem loose down the road I'll get a replacement set to install.
Darn hoped that might work-my plate is probably arched a little more but not much maybe .100. I get 1 clip in and then drive against it-but you probably are doing that already.I havent had to do it for awhile but I used to get some u-joints that I had to grind the caps.I think I made sure they were around 3.625 max.
Yeah, I've been driving them against the opposite clip until the clip distorts. This has been really frustrating. I'll try to grind the clips down a bit this week. It looks like I just got unlucky and got into a batch of joints that are a bit out of spec - or the machining is off a bit on my yokes.
Batman, you screwed up. The YOKES have been pressed together to a point even though minor, will not allow you to put the clips in. You could go through a case of joints and they will all be the same. A possible solution is to go back where you bought them and let them put them in if it was a quality parts house that has a machine shop. If it was a discount joint {parts house} your in trouble. Then take it to one that has a machine shop that can resize the yokes. Dont worry, it`s a common do-it yourselfer problem. Most places will be glad to help.
good luck,
Why don't you ask someone to mic the distance on a known good set of yokes or good ujoint so you can measure yours to compare.
Batman---I took some measurements.I pressed a joint out of a 78 1/2 shaft that had 58k on it.It has no zerk fittings so I'm pretty sure it is original.It measured 3.625 on outside of caps.I popped the caps off and measured the trunnion-it was 3.373.A brand new one out of the box was the same.The clips old and new were .0563.Hope this gives you something to work with and will help.
Batman---I took some measurements.I pressed a joint out of a 78 1/2 shaft that had 58k on it.It has no zerk fittings so I'm pretty sure it is original.It measured 3.625 on outside of caps.I popped the caps off and measured the trunnion-it was 3.373.A brand new one out of the box was the same.The clips old and new were .0563.Hope this gives you something to work with and will help.
Great specs.
Is it possible for you to reinstall the clips into the yoke without the ujoint and somehow measure the inside clip to clip distance. Perhaps using a cyl boe mic??
Batman, you screwed up. The YOKES have been pressed together to a point even though minor, will not allow you to put the clips in. You could go through a case of joints and they will all be the same. A possible solution is to go back where you bought them and let them put them in if it was a quality parts house that has a machine shop. If it was a discount joint {parts house} your in trouble. Then take it to one that has a machine shop that can resize the yokes. Dont worry, it`s a common do-it yourselfer problem. Most places will be glad to help.
good luck,
Unless the flanges have somehow physically become shorter than they were, they aren't bent. I actually have a slight bit of BACKbend in one of the drive flanges, using the method described by DWncchs, and the clips still won't go in. I'll take some measurements tonight.
Does anyone have a suggestion for getting the joints back out intact? The last one I tried ended up broken, because I couldn't get the body and one cap to come out between the flanges. When I tried to realign it and press it back through, the cap ended up broken. I REALLY don't want to buy another set of u-joints...
Is it possible for you to reinstall the clips into the yoke without the ujoint and somehow measure the inside clip to clip distance. Perhaps using a cyl boe mic??
I dont have one of those mics.These clips were snug in the groove.So if you add the 3.625 and 2 clips at .0563 you come up with 3.7376.I did not stress the flange at all.I removed each one by using the 1/2 shaft to force the cup out.That way you dont bend the flange and thats the way I remove all of mine.If you use a press and force the joint out using the other cup you generally stress the flange even with a plate installed.
I should probably note again that I'm having the same problem on both the halfshaft flanges and the drive flanges - that's why I was thinking that it's a slight problem with the joints. One of the joints was cut out with a torch, the others (and the cups from that joint) were removed by a professional shop owned by a third-generation machinist.