U-joint nightmare
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
I figured out how to carefully remove a u-joint so that it isn't destroyed in the process. I'll polish the inside of the bores, oil them, and try this all again. 
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Originally Posted by DWncchs
I dont have one of those mics.These clips were snug in the groove.So if you add the 3.625 and 2 clips at .0563 you come up with 3.7376.I did not stress the flange at all.I removed each one by using the 1/2 shaft to force the cup out.That way you dont bend the flange and thats the way I remove all of mine.If you use a press and force the joint out using the other cup you generally stress the flange even with a plate installed.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,441
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
that's why I was thinking that it's a slight problem with the joints.
Cheap Harbor Freight made in China vernier calipers are only about $15.
If you are concerned about small measurements you need to be able to measure them, otherwise your just guessing.
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
I actually have a slight bit of BACKbend in one of the drive flanges, using the method described by DWncchs, and the clips still won't go in.
How did you determine you have a backbend?
Last edited by shafrs3; Oct 3, 2006 at 11:43 AM.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by shafrs3
Why don't you measure them with a micrometer, this would remove all doubt. According to my cheap Harbor Freight made in China vernier calipers, the brand new Brute Force U-joint I have lying around as a spare measures 3.619", if I compress it's jaws onto the caps with my fingers. I think this is about right, these clearances would leave about .005" operational clearance per side. My C-clips are measuring .0585" using a good mic.
Cheap Harbor Freight made in China vernier calipers are only about $15.
If you are concerned about small measurements you need to be able to measure them, otherwise your just guessing.
I still think you've got bent ears.
How did you determine you have a backbend?
Cheap Harbor Freight made in China vernier calipers are only about $15.
If you are concerned about small measurements you need to be able to measure them, otherwise your just guessing.
I still think you've got bent ears.
How did you determine you have a backbend?
I'll run by HF later today and get a set of their cheapo verniers and see what I come up with.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Batman just got some more joints in and measured them.These are in Borg Warner boxes.8 measured 3.624,1 measured 3.625,,,1 measured 3.635--pulled the caps off and measured the trunnions-they all measured right at 3.373 except the 3.635 and its trunnion measured 3.383---EDIT---shafrs3 said his clips are .002 larger than mine-check yours-all of mine are .056-.057
Last edited by ...Roger...; Oct 3, 2006 at 01:23 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,429
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From: Northern CA
St. Jude Donor '10-'12, '25
Batman - Sorry this might not help you much, but after reading your problems, I wanted to make sure I didn't bend the flanges so I removed U-joints with a die grinder. Took awhile, but they came out. Then to install the joints I mounted the flange back onto the TArm. Pressed the U-joint in with a large C-Clamp. Piece of cake. I also pressed the U-joints into the arms with the vise. 
I think Ironcross might be right.... During my installation it looked like I had extra room (after pressing) to install (2) clips?!? Good luck....
I think Ironcross might be right.... During my installation it looked like I had extra room (after pressing) to install (2) clips?!? Good luck....
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Leander Texas
Do you have the grease fittings installed in the joints? You may want to try removing them if you do. You could possibly be hydrualic locking the joint by trying to compress the grease. If you remove the grease fitting this will allow the traped preasurised grease to escape.
Just an idea.
Just an idea.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by DR.Jay
Do you have the grease fittings installed in the joints? You may want to try removing them if you do. You could possibly be hydrualic locking the joint by trying to compress the grease. If you remove the grease fitting this will allow the traped preasurised grease to escape.
Just an idea.
Just an idea.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,429
Likes: 19
From: Northern CA
St. Jude Donor '10-'12, '25
Originally Posted by noonie
Gr8Wht
Your stuff looks way way too clean.
Your stuff looks way way too clean.
I'm in know hurry, just having fun. That's probably why.... The trailing arms look nice, huh? I have to thank Gary (gtr1999) for that. Doesn't he do a great job?
Last edited by Gr8Wht; Oct 5, 2006 at 04:42 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
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From: Florida
Originally Posted by Gr8Wht
Noonie,
I'm in know hurry, just having fun. That's probably why.... The trailing arms look nice, huh? I have to thank Gary (gtr1999) for that. Doesn't he do a great job?
I'm in know hurry, just having fun. That's probably why.... The trailing arms look nice, huh? I have to thank Gary (gtr1999) for that. Doesn't he do a great job?
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by shafrs3
So Batman, what did you find? Give us your root cause analysis.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I may have to re-do the joints in my half shafts. As I was putting the tires back on, I tested, and there was more play than I was comfortable with.
Can the half shafts be removed and worked on without presing the hub out of the trailing arms? Also, what's involved with getting the yokes changed in the rear end?
Can the half shafts be removed and worked on without presing the hub out of the trailing arms? Also, what's involved with getting the yokes changed in the rear end?
Last edited by Durango_Boy; Oct 6, 2006 at 01:39 PM.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
You can easily unbolt the drive flange from the hub - shine a light on the inside of the T/A and you'll see what I mean. I'd recommend taking the spindle nut off and pulling the inner portion of the drive flange, too - you can use it as a backing plate to stiffen the drive flange while messing around with the joints.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
You can easily unbolt the drive flange from the hub - shine a light on the inside of the T/A and you'll see what I mean. I'd recommend taking the spindle nut off and pulling the inner portion of the drive flange, too - you can use it as a backing plate to stiffen the drive flange while messing around with the joints.
And the yokes? Do they pull out of the pumkin or are there clips on the inside holding them?