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The wheels themselves are moved further back..but so is the differential I moved everything around. It's a C4 super Dana 44 so it required custom mounting anyway and custom drive and halfshafts. The track width is also wider by about 2". That way I can run even wider tires with more backspacing on the wheels, I have an honest 2,5" of clearance on the inside now
How tall are you? With the rear end moved back, can you get the seat further back than stock? Just a thought. We want you comfortable.
When I was a kid, I would build model airplanes. I always waited a week or two after finishing the frame before covering it with tissue. I enjoyed looking at my craftsmanship. My point, put a seat and windsheild on that monster, and drive it that way while you work out the bugs and continue to mod. At least you can drive your car uncovered. My airplanes couldn't fly till I covered them.
PS. Do you have a name for this monster? Merlin is already taken.
About 6'1"
I didn't move the rear firewall, all the tubing and stuff is there..but I may cut it out and also cut out the floor and lower it. I may build a whole frame under the floor area where the new floor will rest on and it'll stiffen up the chassis..I kinda hate the stock floor, it's butt ugly.
I can't drive it like this, I need to have a sort of MOT on it and they won't approve it like this, it has to have a full body, lighting, windshield..you name it. I now have 2 stock seats in it, they are just not comfy..and they are going out again, just put them in for testing purposes
Looking good, TT! It's cool to see the wheels on the car and it rolling around. It's always motivating to stand back and see all the progress rather than being so close to individual projects you don't feel like things are moving along. Your efforts are truly inspirational and I really look forward to seeing the finished result.
FYI, one area I could have done a better job on initially, that would have made life much easier during final assembly would have been prep before powder coating. All bolt holes or even areas requiring specific tolerances should be well masked/plugged. EG: we powder coated my rotor caps but then had to have the coating machined off and trued as my rotor were not running true, some suspension areas etc. we needed to remove the powder coating to maintain functionality. The powder coating is really great and wears like nails but its hard to get off where you don't want it. Straight Acetone worked fairly well and I'm told Zip strip works but powdercoat is tough it takes a bit of work.