C3 Lower control arm removal
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C3 Lower control arm removal
I have a C3 1972 LT1 and am removing the lower control arms.
I searched a link and read the posts about a C4 (not C3) Lower Control arm removal. I've never seen the suspension on a C4.
Is the procedure to remove the lower control arm from a C3 the same as on a C4? The motor manuals give a completely different description from what seems a reasonable way to remove a C3 control arm.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, RGVette
I searched a link and read the posts about a C4 (not C3) Lower Control arm removal. I've never seen the suspension on a C4.
Is the procedure to remove the lower control arm from a C3 the same as on a C4? The motor manuals give a completely different description from what seems a reasonable way to remove a C3 control arm.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, RGVette
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Remove the wheel and shock. Use a spring compressor to collapse the spring some. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the ball joint, disconnect the sway bar link. Use a pickle fork to seperate the ball joint, remove the 3 bolts that hold the control arm on the frame.
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Can you do this without a spring compressor (Don't happen to have one) - by having a jack under the Lower control arm by the ball joint, releasing the ball joint then slowly lowering the control arm, then once the spring is loose take all of the bolds off whre the control arm attaches to the frame?
Thanks, RGVette
Thanks, RGVette
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by RGVette
Can you do this without a spring compressor (Don't happen to have one) - by having a jack under the Lower control arm by the ball joint, releasing the ball joint then slowly lowering the control arm, then once the spring is loose take all of the bolds off whre the control arm attaches to the frame?
Thanks, RGVette
Thanks, RGVette
The jack will work, but as things have a tendancy to shift and slide under load, it'd be a good idea to wrap a chain through the spring, and close it into a loop through the arm so that it if does slip off it won't fly out and crack your skull or fender.
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 36
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From: Chicago IL
Yeah you can. I just did this a week ago. Big jack, lower it REALLY slowly. If you have stock springs, it's still pretty dangerous b/c they are really long so they will be under load until the lower control arm is really far down, so they can pop out. I put the spindle b/w myself and the spring so that if it wanted to fly out, it would hit the spindle first. The aftermarket springs are a lot shorter and MUCH easier to deal with ( i got the VBP Gymkhana kind) If you haven't done so yet, now is the time to upgrade the springs.
Make sure you have a ball-joint puller tool or something similar handy. It'll save you so much time over hammer and/or pickle fork, esp. if the suspension's never been apart.
Good luck, let me know if you have any other questions, i'd be happy to help.
Make sure you have a ball-joint puller tool or something similar handy. It'll save you so much time over hammer and/or pickle fork, esp. if the suspension's never been apart.
Good luck, let me know if you have any other questions, i'd be happy to help.
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rentalcop79 stated getting new springs that are shorter and easier to deal with - and that prompted another question. I've thought about that and thought that in doing so the front would ride lower to the ground. Is that correct or does the spring have anything to do with the ride height?
Thanks, RGVette
Thanks, RGVette
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by RGVette
rentalcop79 stated getting new springs that are shorter and easier to deal with - and that prompted another question. I've thought about that and thought that in doing so the front would ride lower to the ground. Is that correct or does the spring have anything to do with the ride height?
Thanks, RGVette
Thanks, RGVette
Yes, and depending on how much of a drop you have you may have to lower the rear, and adjust the toe front and rear. Could mean a lot of work...more than planned. The upside is a better looking stance.
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by RGVette
Thanks to respondents to my control arm and spring questions. I know just what to do now and will get to it. You've assisted me a great deal.
Thanks, RGVette
Thanks, RGVette
Well it sounds like you have it all in hand, but as things come up that yopu don't understand come see us. We're all here to help.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,334
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From: Midland TX
Some Corvette restorers past this on to me and now I'm passing it on to you....
Get some all-thread - as big as will go through the upper shock mount hole - about 3' long.
Get a piece of round metal that is larger than the hole in the bottom control arm (where the lower shock mount is). I had someone in our shop cut out a piece for me. I think it is about 6 inches in diameter. Cut a hole in the center that is a little larger than the all-thread.
Run the all-thread through the upper shock mount down through the spring and out the bottom of the lower control arm. Install a nut, washers, and metal disk on the bottom of the all-thread. Install washers and nut on the upper end of the all-thread and tighten the nut to take up all the slack.
Now you have a large metal bar running down inside the coil spring so it won't come flying out.
Remove the nuts from the ball joints. Loosen the top nut on the all-thread to slowly lower the lower control arm.
You can install the control arm the same way.
Get some all-thread - as big as will go through the upper shock mount hole - about 3' long.
Get a piece of round metal that is larger than the hole in the bottom control arm (where the lower shock mount is). I had someone in our shop cut out a piece for me. I think it is about 6 inches in diameter. Cut a hole in the center that is a little larger than the all-thread.
Run the all-thread through the upper shock mount down through the spring and out the bottom of the lower control arm. Install a nut, washers, and metal disk on the bottom of the all-thread. Install washers and nut on the upper end of the all-thread and tighten the nut to take up all the slack.
Now you have a large metal bar running down inside the coil spring so it won't come flying out.
Remove the nuts from the ball joints. Loosen the top nut on the all-thread to slowly lower the lower control arm.
You can install the control arm the same way.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
I have done this several times, and that $30 spring compressor is WELL worth the money
I admire the safety aspect, but have to admit I've done all my springs using a floor jack that I got for free out of the back of a junk car. If you're slow and careful, you can get it all done with a floor jack. They do make tools that safely help you...it's just up to how much to want to invest in it.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 19
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From: Dallas Georgia
I like my fingers and toes just the way they are, I'd opt for the 30 dollar spring compressor. Beside the fact that a friend needs to do the same job so we could share the cost. Springs can make a mess if they get away from you. Just a thought for the saftey side.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,694
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From: WI
I've done it both ways, but never on a Corvette. The spring compressor is the more civilized way to do it. The floor jack technique works fine too. either way, I would definitely chain the spring securely so it can't fly out. There is a lot of energy in that spring. The cost of a mishap could be anything from busting a fiberglass fender to breaking your skull (neither of which sounds good). Usually, once the control arm is lowered, you have to pry the spring out and vise versa during installation. JC Whitney has a nice ball joint stud compressor (remover) that you may want to check out. I bought one and it works great. I don't recall the number, but do a search. Good luck,
Mark G
Mark G
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Columbia Missouri
A thought I had. If you haven't yet removed the shock...which may be difficult if it hasn't been replaced in a long time...the shock can act as a safe gaurd against the spring coming out. You can unbolt it from the lower a-arm, and leave it hang. Now, it can bind up with that shock in there, so it's just a good idea to remove it first...but it may be able to stop the spring from flinging out in the event something slips.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
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From: Carmichael CA
Another thing that helps alot is a ball joint remover tool...basically a press which slips around the ball joint and a bolt which presses against the shaft of the joint. I used a pickle fork for years and can say that a ball joint remover is so much more painless
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Seems to me that tying a strong chane through the spring and around the lower control arm would prevent the spring from dangerously popping out as you lower the control arm to get the spring free. has anyone solved the problem this way?
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The suggestion about getting a ball stud remover sounds like an excellent one. I'm now trying to implement what I've learned from you all and find I can't get the ball joint out. Also by the sorry about the post about a chain, somebody already answered that question.
Thanks RGVette
Thanks RGVette
Last edited by RGVette; Oct 6, 2006 at 10:31 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by RGVette
The suggestion about getting a ball stud remover sounds like an excellent one. I'm now trying to implement what I've learned from you all and find I can't get the ball joint out.
Thanks RGVette
Thanks RGVette
Did you grind out the rivets or remove the bolts?
Don't underestimate the power of a heavy hand held hammer. Put that pickle fork in there are whale on it...it's caveman but in the end it's about the best way to wrestle it out.