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Making trans crossmember removable?

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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 08:55 PM
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Default Making trans crossmember removable?

How would one go about making a fixed transmission crossmember removable?...
-Certain way to cut it out? bend the top flap to the bottom?
-What bolt fixture would you use to secure it to the frame?
Any pics of this already done???
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 09:00 PM
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yes there was a really good thread on this within the last year or so ...lots of pictures and different ways of doing it.....try some different searchs onthe subject
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 09:25 PM
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Default Here's what I did....

I cut the crossmember, welded a plate on each on each stub, and then used bolts to (grade 8, 4 per side) bolted the 2 plates to each other.


---||------------||---
|| ||
---||------------||---

Hope this is somewhat clear.
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 11:04 PM
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heres one way to do it
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 12:00 AM
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by rosslato
heres one way to do it
Thats a neat idea. Is there enough room in those exhaust tunnels to get a wrench in there for the bolts? what gauge flat steel did you use?
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 06:57 AM
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I have just converted a 74 auto to a b w 4sp. the crosmember on the 74 unbolted from the side rails. I got the trans. from a 75 that one was welded to the side railes. I am thinking in 75 they started to weld them what yr. is yours?
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 07:56 AM
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Stick shifts were welded in, auto were bolted in....this for serviceability...seems simpler to have made them all bolt in...but no....

anyway, I cut my X support about 3-4 inches from each end, and got 2" angle iron welded on the support bar, and use just one 3/8? bolt fore and aft facing, through the entire mess...the angle holds everything solid as hell, and it's oriented to encourage water drainage....
you can see a slight bump under the cowling if you look lo enough or far enough away....
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 68 NJConv 454
Thats a neat idea. Is there enough room in those exhaust tunnels to get a wrench in there for the bolts? what gauge flat steel did you use?
to your 1st question i'd say plenty of room. don't know about what gauge steel. not my vette but a buddy's
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 12:35 PM
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Default Post From Bullshark

Here's a nice set of pictures and ideas:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1505590
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 12:39 PM
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Hi

To install the T56 Viper tranny, I cut out the manual tranny crossmember and got a used auto removable one, welded in some nuts into the frame and bolted the crossmember in the original way, but a few inches further back because this T56 is a huge tranny.
Looks original, at least to our car inspectors we have to visit evry 2nd year. When they see some of the aftermarked tube type crossmembers, they might bcome crazy and give you a hard time.

Günther
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by TopGunn
Here's a nice set of pictures and ideas:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1505590
Thanks TopGun. Bullsharks is ideal but i don't have the resources to have something like that fabricated.

Wonder if it would be just as strong if I put two full solid plates on each side instead of cutting out the center and welding around. That would make it a bit easier, it would also section off the member adding strength. What do you think? What guage do you think would work best?
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 06:07 PM
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Not just as strong - but likely strong enough.
You could always add some triangular gussets to strengthen it further.
Picture for illustrative purposes only ... not a design.
http://nhvette.homeunix.com/ftp/in/end_plate.jpg

I have an "extra" auto crossmember with the mating pieces of frame cut out.
If anyone is interested, I could be convince to part with it.
It's not nice and new, and it will take some decent metal/welding
skills to get it in right.


Last edited by NHvette; Nov 1, 2006 at 06:10 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 68 NJConv 454
Thanks TopGun. Bullsharks is ideal but i don't have the resources to have something like that fabricated.

Wonder if it would be just as strong if I put two full solid plates on each side instead of cutting out the center and welding around. That would make it a bit easier, it would also section off the member adding strength. What do you think? What guage do you think would work best?
Yes, I'm sure it would be just as strong also especially if you put some gussets on the sides. I think he may have cut out the center also to make it easier to line up the two mating plates. If they're butt welded to the ends of the crossmember it would have to be cut perfectly perpendicular so they bolt up flat and also the exact length. With the hole in the center you can adjust them infinately so they are flat against each other, bolt them together then weld them in place.

Hard to say what the thickness is, looks like maybe 3/8". Maybe he'll chime in.

Bill
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 07:38 AM
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.

Last edited by sblezard; Nov 2, 2006 at 09:06 AM.
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