Gyopp, I tried to get ahold of Lloyd today and never could. I did leave a message for him. I am wanting to get a full written quote with parts/part numbers used. I am about 90% sure I am going with this combo.

I talked to an old rat motor enthusiast/builder today. He lives for BBCs and he even recommended for no more then what I want out of the car(mid 11s NA) to stay with the big inch small block.

His reasons(keep in mind he is a rat motor guy)

1)Much less heat in the passenger compartment
2)Much better fit in the engine compartment-easier to work on.
3)Less chance of heating problems down here in the Houston summers
4)Less weight on the nose of the car, even with alu heads/pump/intake
5)No conversion crap to deal with aka. radiator/fan/shroud/brackets/pullies/AC compressor hoses.

He thinks the 408" will go 11s no problem with the right converter/gear. Then put a little spray on it and go 10.90s

 

I haven't run it at all yet. Its still sitting in my garage while I wait to get my 350 trans rebuilt. So, I hope to get it in by the end of January and no later than the beginning of Feb. This waiting is killing me.

 

Lloyd is in the process of building me a 408 at the moment.

Concerning the crank and rods he said that I could choose from either Scat or Eagle bough in forged 4340 material and the rods are of the 6" H-beam type. He checks the tolerances and makes the balancing before the assembly in any case so I choose to go with Scat.

I have decided for a solid roller cam for my engine. It's grinded on a small base circle because of the long 4" stroke. It has a 242 deg at 0.05 lift and a 112 LCA in order to make enough vacuum for the accessories.

Lloyd is shopping around for a set of the new AFR eliminator heads for my engine. He predicts that it will make 530-540 hp on his dyno with this combination of parts.

I'll keep you updated on how it goes with the build in the coming time.

 

DK, keep me posted on your motor. That sounds like a nasty combo. How come you guys just didn't decide to fully work the big valve Darts? I am sure Lloyd has a flow bench and does race porting? Either way yours should make some serious power. You going to run a Victor JR intake?

 

dk-vette : sounds similar to my 383 that T&L / Lloyd built- I decided to go with the AFR195-prior version. Both Lloyd and I shopped, I found a set before he did and it was right near T&L - Doug Herbert's Performance near Charlotte, I had them put on hold and Lloyd called in and ordered them.
Next time you talk to Lloyd tell him Larry and Marshall(my son) said hello.

 

Base on the many good feedbacks for the AFR-heads on this forum I had a preference for them, and with the many new features of the eliminator heads there was not really any doubts from my side.

I’ll talked with Lloyd about it too and I understood that it would be more costly to port a set of Darts to the same flow, and after this the Darts will still not have the new lightweight 8mm AFR valve gear.

My motor will have to live with my 3.08 rear / TH400 and 2400 stall for a beginning. Therefore we have decided to go with the 195cc runners and the RPM air gap but after reading this tread I will discuss with Lloyd if a single plane manifold would make more sense. I have been looking in the direction of a Team-G 7530 manifold more than ones but I’m afraid that the vacuum will be to low with this. And like ajrothm I also plan to have my engine look all original painted orange so here the RPM would also be the best choice.

And Larry, I will definitely say hello to Lloyd from you and Marshall when I phone him next week. Btw are you running the Holley carb T&L normally use? I’m very much in doubt if I should go for this or a Demon.
Best regards, DK.

 

I am going to do the motor/tranny/converter and full exhaust at the same time, BUT I will be way to broke to do the rear end, half shafts, trailing arms etc then so....I to will be living with my 3.08s until something blows up. I am sure mine is ready for a full a$$ end rebuild but...seeing as how thats another $3k, I don't see it happening at the same time I am dumping $8k in the motor/tranny etc.


Damn these turds are expensive. I need to sell a few toys for some $$

 

I am using 750DP Speed Demon, purchased thru Lloyd, I had some issues with it after I got home(BG quality control, NOT T&L), there were some debri in the front bowl and I had to replace the float needle valves/seat. It looks like Lloyd is selling the A&E performance Holley carbs, I think that is a better performance choice. I wanted to use one but my son wanted the pretty speed demon
A&E is local here in Richmond,Va and they hand build and test each carb before it goes out the door.

 

I bought the AED 750 DP Holley from Lloyd. He must sell a pretty high volume because I couldn't buy parts from Summit and ship to him any cheaper.

 

This shop sounds legit and the owner sounds like a good guy, it still has me scratching my head how he can build and sell a motor for less than one can buy the parts for though

 

I understand why you would be skeptical, I was, but everything I could find out was all positive. Lloyd is a really nice guy, very knowledgeable, and I don't think he would steer you wrong intentionally. Thier facilities are top notch also. His engines have a 1 year warranty but realizing that some people take a while to complete a rod project you call him and tell him when you are ready to crank it up and he starts the warranty then, even if its a year after you buy it.
BTW, I have a warranty issue with a failed ps pulley from my March serpentine kit I bought from them and they can't get any cooperation from March. From what I understand March is holding them up on completing several projects so they are tooling up to make thier own billet pulley kits. I think they also make other specialty items for Nascar engines. Its pretty cool to go there and meet your engine builder while he is assembling a SB2 for someones Busch car

Oh, I don't know how he builds these so cheap but I bet buying 500 or so sets of heads a year he probably gets pretty good pricing. He line item qouted me the carb, distributor, serp kit, etc. installed for the same money that I would have to pay for them at Summit or Jegs.

 

Hey I will gladly go watch your engine being dynoed Im only 30 minutes away from his shop.

 

Thats a generous offer. If I hadn't gone myself I know that I would really have appreciated that.
Have you been there before?

 

Hi Hoss,

Thanks for your offer to go and watch the dyno-test. I might take you up on that. I would love to go and watch myself but taking the trip all the way from Europe might be a problem.

Larry, about the A&E Holley it’s the same Lloyd tells me, works perfect all the time and Demons has just to many quality problems. They looks great but has poor assambly.

 

Hell I might take you up on that also. It would cost me too much to fly out there and watch.

I will also go with the AED from Lloyd, I am also going to get the fuel pump/aluminum water pump from him, All I am sending him is my original distributor to use.


Anyone see a problem using the factory points distributor in a 408"? I really won't have the money for the MSD tach drive distributor and ignition box so I am gonna have to pimp the stock stuff for a while. I will put fresh points and a new coil in it and let it rip.

If an original LT1 and use a points dist to 6500, why shouldn't work for this one at 6200 rpms or so?

 

Ive never been there but who can pass up a chance to go see a dyno run? Not me! If you get the details figured out, email me hosspowerinc@alltel.net

 

Definitely go with the Carter fuel pump , not the fancy looking Edelbrock. Be sure the bottom of the fuel pump inlet/outlet are clocked properly so they don't hit the frame. My original 71 LT-1 TI(transistorized Ignition) not points. At least use a high voltage coil, I recommend the MSD High Vibration resistance.
If you have a manual trans. be sure the block has a tapped boss on the drivers side for the clutch cross-shaft.

 

B71--I didn't know the LT1 was transistorized. Do you think there will be a problem running a points distributor in the 408" since it won't be revving too high? I wont have the $600 for a tach drive MSD and the 6AL ignition box. My original distributor is in good shap, actually looks like its been rebuilt/recurved at some point. Gonna make do with it for while.

 

Talk to Lloyd about using your points distributor and what effects if any it will have on performance.

 

I have a MSD system from my existing engine that I'm planning to use on the 408. Unfortunately it has the 6A box without a rev. limiter, so this I will exchange with a 6A-Digital or a Crane HI-6R.

I'm also planning to use the following Hamburger oil pan:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
According to Summit it will keep the original 7" corvette pan dept and it is ready for up to a 4" stroke.

What do you think of this? Have any of you experience with this pan? All the other oil pans I have looked at has a 8 1/4" dept or more and I'm affraid this is to much for a C3.