The later vettes used a Nippondenso starter. Racers started using them on big blower motors and then suppliers caught on

Racecar cranking power.

Summit's lightweight Nippondenso-type Protorque starters

 

Man I'm gonna be kicking myself on that one. The guy that bought the motor didn't want it for anything but the block and a few brackets. The rest I think ended up in a junk pile. Shame.

 

I've had the basic cheap Summit on my car for about 7-8 years now I think. It has been on the 427 and on the 540. No issues. It's the Nippondenso style that is adjustable as far as being able to rotate it. I've had to reposition is several times to clear different headers and oil pans over the years.

As a side note....when I had my C-4....the starter started acting up one weekend. No one had one in stock...so I started eyeballing the 'ole Summit one laying on the bench since I had motor out of the '67 at the time. Since they were both Nippo style, I was able to take the solenoid contacts out of the Summit and put in the GM C-4 starter. Pure bolt in deal...in fact the Summit contacts were a lot larger...but still bolted in. The next week I went to an alternator/starter repair place and bought a new set of large contacts for $10 to install back in the Summit starter.

You will find that most of these things are based on the same starter..just eyeball the pics and get the one with the most adj. position on the mounting plate.

The other choice is the new permanent magnet GM style ones. They work well, weigh a little less..but cost more. If you are really bucks down..hit the Pick a Parts place....those suckers don't wear out hardly...you can get them cheap there.

JIM

 

What did they come in?

 

I got a reman at AutoZone for less than $200. Pricey, but it solved my heat soak problems once and for all.

 

Yeah my current can style starter has bad heat soak problems. For ever I thought it was a bad ground. It was just a hot starter.

 

There in no such condition as heat soak starters as a reason for poor cranking, that is pure I dont care it your running any type of header either. Every part in or on the engine would fail with that type of reasoning because everything under the hood gets or becomes almost too hot to touch.

 

So what causes the problem then? It seems to start great when it's cold. When it's hot and I shut down it doesn't want to turn over. Sluggish is a good word.

 

I've got that same one. No problems here.
-M

 

I am using a CVR brand mini starter on my zz4...works great. Got it from scoggin-dickey for about $150

 

Ok gentlemen lets use or heads here. These cars {Vettes} or what have you all started right from the dealership as new without any {heat} problems and with any HP or cubic inch engine. Right! I think you will agree with that statement offered for it`s truth. {aye Batman} Basically the answer is that quality parts wont fail. A good charging system will keep the battery up so when a restart is necessary everything works as it should. A good suggestion is to use a battery that is as good as the car came with or even better. Failures in the cranking and charging systems begin to happen when the deviation from OEM quality parts are substituted. If the piece will not start in 5 seconds of cranking you have a problem that needs to be addressed. And most of the time it`s not the starter unless you have cranked and cranked it to burn the damn thing up. You will need a high amp cold cranking battery and a charging system good enough to deliver 12V as soon as you turn the key. Unfortunately these cars are not new any more and most if not all may have gone through several amature bubba hands before you became the owners. Restore the critical systems too, not only the bodys and probably the most negelected. Thats why they may fail.

 

The battery was new when the problem started getting annoying. Not only that, the car starts GREAT when it's cold. Maybe a full revolution, and it's firing. After I go for a drive...and shut it down and get back in...it really strains to turn over. If it sits for another 30 minutes to an hour...it starts great again. I've had the carb rebuilt and then changed in the midst of all that and that didn't solve anything. Not a fuel problem. I went through a few different alternator applications trying to keep up with all the electric components I was adding, and I never solved it that way either. It seemed, when I had this problem in an old Dodge truck, that when I switched from a new can starter to a new mini starter...the problem stopped. I just don't get it if it's not the starter getting hot and not wanting to turn the motor.

 

I have a 75 L-82 Automatic --- all stock. How do i know how many teeth on the flywheel?

 

Should be 168 and uses a staggered bolt aluminum nose starter. Get the HD {heavy duty} starter.

 

I had a brand new Optima in it and it still wouldn't start when the engine hadn't cooled off. The old-style Delco starters are well-known for the overheating problems...else no one would sell heat shields for them.

 

They were on about everything. Mid nineties pickups..Vettes Camaro's etc. As I've wandered wreckign yeards I see them everywhere.

Most start issues are caused by voltage drops. Before changing parts, I like to do some voltage drop tests with voltmeter to make sure cables and control wiring will carry the load.

As a solenoid's contacts wear, there is more resistance in the circuit. You can test this with the old "short across solenoid" with a screwdriver trick when it is hot and not starting. If it starts Ok then, then the issue is in the solenoid or the control wiring to it. The rest of the main cables and starter itself are probably OK. If it works you can cheaply wire in a Ford starter relay remotely mounted that will bypass the GM solenoid. Many motorhomes did that...GM even offered a kit at one time as well as Summit and folks like that. There was also a different spring you could install in solenoid to help the situation.

JIM

 

In my case, that didn't work. I also had a weird battery drain that was solved with the new starter, so something was wrong in there.

 

I fully believe it could be the solenoid.

 

So any Lt1 starter can go with a t-56? even a starter for 4L60E ?
but a old starter fot Th350 can't?

sorry for stupid question

 

It's not a stupid question...but I think the newer ones work because the size is so much smaller.