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I am ready to install my new cam and lifters, no one has the original moly lube by Comp Cam available. (Summit is out and will deliver in like 8 days.) I picked up some engine assemble lube from Advanced Auto, which should be the same stuff I am guessing.
Is it imperitive to use the comp cam lube, or are they just trying to sell their lube? Will I be safe using someone elses start up cam lube?
Go back to advance & look again ... I've bought moly paste in a squeeze tube about size of toothpaste tube from advance .. I don't recall the brand ... advance also has Moly CV joint grease linked here http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...rtnumber=03618
If you are installing a non-roller cam from what I have read in the past year I would use only oil like Shell Rotella 10-30 or 10-40 or similiar oil which has the additives including zinc which is needed to break in the the cam and lifters. The GM Supplement has been around for a very long time and has the additives needed for engine break in.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by 70ZZ3 96LT4
I would use only oil like Shell Rotella 10-30 or 10-40 or similiar oil which has the additives including zinc.
Rotella just revised their formula and lowered their zinc content. The new revised formula is in the containers with the more brightly colored label. I just went out around town and bought every old container of Rotella I could find...
Don't panic yet. If you use most of the oils that are in the marketplace for "racing", you'll be good-to-go!
This includes the entire Valvoline "Race-Only" weights and one specific Pennzoil "Race" weight, of the 25W-50, that I'm aware. Both these oils still have the required additives, but whichever you choose, make certain the containers stipulate "For Racing Only".
There are probably some other brands out there, but to date we have not a single issue with respect to cam-lobe/lifter failure with these two specific brands. This is NOT to be confused with the oils with the same names but sold in many of the "standard" retail outlets. You will most likely need to locate some type of "race-oriented" speed-shop to buy it!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. I would still strongly recommend using "moly" lube for the initial break-in. And ALL the "old-school" rules still apply, make certain unit fires immediately, keep it at 1500 RPM for about 15/20 minutes, and under NO circumstances let it idle. If you have any issues, you're better off shutting it down and starting over! On one other note, we still use only the "Johnson" tappet line! No others, period. These are as close to the original G.M.'s out there.