Motor Mount Replacement
Per the repair manual I should remove the distributor cap for clearance and lift the engine using a floor jack and block of wood under the oil pan. I am a little worried about lifting on the pan and am thinking I may need to disconnect the exhaust for lifting clearance.
Does anyone have any experiences with this little job they can share?
Thanks
Eight cylinders, all mine.
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1982 Vette- Stan's chrome headers, 1985 FP, Holley 670 carb, Edelbrock heads, cam, manifold, MSD Ign, 2800 RPM stall, N2O, LM-1 data logger
I did this replacement last year. The first mount was pretty easy, the second a nightmare. I just couldn't get the bolts all lined up. if you end up with the same problem, Jughead suggested that i loosen the block to mount bolts, put the large bolt in place, then tighten the bolts up. This was all it took to make mine work.
I did this replacement last year. The first mount was pretty easy, the second a nightmare. I just couldn't get the bolts all lined up. if you end up with the same problem, Jughead suggested that i loosen the block to mount bolts, put the large bolt in place, then tighten the bolts up. This was all it took to make mine work.
Thanks,
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Yeah, solid just means the motor dampens through the frame...hence, no movement.
Rubber will go bad over time, poly is just more tolerant to years of abuse.
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A lot of forum members have made the swap and none say it's noisy. Also, they say it feels tighter...that when you mash the go pedal...you feel the power without a damping sensation.
I was going to buy poly mounts - are solid mounts ok for 'normal' driving or is it more like a 'track only' thing ????














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