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VB&P have poly engine mounts: P/N 51092 (Trans), 51093 (engine). They're also good folks over there and forum members receive a 10% discount. VBandP.com (1-800-237-9991).
It is easier if you loosen or remove the through bolts in the tranny first. I do the passengers side first, then the drivers side and then you usually pry the tranny mount over a little to get those bolts started.
If you leave the tranny bolts in the drivers side is often the problem side with aligning the bolts.
I did this 2 weeks ago with no probems but I do take the tranny bolts out first.
I am also a fan of solid mounts. When I pull a tranny I replace the solid mounts with rubber mounts to allow the mounts to flex when I lower the tranny but once the tranny is back in I do a quick mount change.
I used a piece of wood (2X4) beween my jack and the oil pan to spread the load a little, but otherwise, yes.
I did this replacement last year. The first mount was pretty easy, the second a nightmare. I just couldn't get the bolts all lined up. if you end up with the same problem, Jughead suggested that i loosen the block to mount bolts, put the large bolt in place, then tighten the bolts up. This was all it took to make mine work.
I have replaced two sets this way. the 2x4 on top of the jack under the oil pan.
Guys the motor is torqued over by the tranny mount. If you relieve the pressure on the tranny mount the other two mounts are alot easier.
For the tranny mount you pry it over until the 2 bolts start.
You dont need to take the distro cap off for clearance... but some ppl do to be safe.
You dont need to disconnect exaust...
Use a 2x4 or something like that to spread the load when jacking on the oil pan. Is is not safe to jack on the oil pan for just about any other reason than this. All you are do is lifting the engine just enough to take the load off the motor mounts, which will allow you to remove them and replace.
I suggest doing one mount at a time.
I suggest Poly mounts. For a daily driver solid is just not nessasary. Rubber wear, rot, and break too quickly for my taste.
Guys the motor is torqued over by the tranny mount. If you relieve the pressure on the tranny mount the other two mounts are alot easier.
For the tranny mount you pry it over until the 2 bolts start.
Do you use 5the Moroso solid mounts? Any other suggestions or are they the berries?
Most auto stores or hotrod shops should have them; or Jegs or Summits. Norval runs solid mounts on his 600 HP monster and doesn't notice any uncomfortable vibration and on my stock engine there is bearly a feel of it. I am going to get a set of custom made ones for my 92 and doubt there will be any noticeable vibration with it. It isn't like a motorcycle engine vibration and even they aren't that bad. On the 79 both rubber mounts were broken when I bought it and had heard many talk about broken mounts on their vettes with stock engines.
Bernie
Do you use 5the Moroso solid mounts? Any other suggestions or are they the berries?
I was against solid mounts, I was afraid of vibrations being felt while idling but after ripping a couple of sets of poly mounts and wanting to use the motor as a stress member I went for the Morosso solid mounts.
Now the motor helps stabalize the frame under the steering box.
There is no vibration and the motor seems to blip faster. The motor no longer torques over with a rev. I am sold on the solid mounts.
I was against solid mounts, I was afraid of vibrations being felt while idling but after ripping a couple of sets of poly mounts and wanting to use the motor as a stress member I went for the Morosso solid mounts.
Now the motor helps stabalize the frame under the steering box.
There is no vibration and the motor seems to blip faster. The motor no longer torques over with a rev. I am sold on the solid mounts.
I've never used solid, but I went to Energy Suspension's red poly from summit racing. I had to do an emergency swap using the emergency jack under the oil pan with a 2x4 Lucky for me, I can still squeeze under the car while it's still on the ground. One side at a time, and make sure everything is started before tightening. Also, clearance is pretty tight and BFH makes it easier to "massage" it into place
I've never used solid, but I went to Energy Suspension's red poly from summit racing. I had to do an emergency swap using the emergency jack under the oil pan with a 2x4 Lucky for me, I can still squeeze under the car while it's still on the ground. One side at a time, and make sure everything is started before tightening. Also, clearance is pretty tight and BFH makes it easier to "massage" it into place
How the heck can you get under the car with it not jacked up? I have a 32 waist and I can't fit...maybe it's my chest.