Motor Mount Replacement
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Yeah, he's on my list.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
It is easier if you loosen or remove the through bolts in the tranny first. I do the passengers side first, then the drivers side and then you usually pry the tranny mount over a little to get those bolts started.
If you leave the tranny bolts in the drivers side is often the problem side with aligning the bolts.
I did this 2 weeks ago with no probems but I do take the tranny bolts out first.
I am also a fan of solid mounts. When I pull a tranny I replace the solid mounts with rubber mounts to allow the mounts to flex when I lower the tranny but once the tranny is back in I do a quick mount change.
If you leave the tranny bolts in the drivers side is often the problem side with aligning the bolts.
I did this 2 weeks ago with no probems but I do take the tranny bolts out first.
I am also a fan of solid mounts. When I pull a tranny I replace the solid mounts with rubber mounts to allow the mounts to flex when I lower the tranny but once the tranny is back in I do a quick mount change.
I have a set of ES poly motor mounts that I haven't installed, but I'm seriously considering going solid. Just trying to work out all the details.
Also, I have those solid rear crossmember mounts. I can't decide if I should go ahead and use the poly cushion for the differential tongue mount or if I should make an aluminum replacement. Any thoughts?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
Batman,
Go with a stock rear tranny mount. There isn't enough torsional stress on the tranny mount to cause the problem you have at the motor mounts. Rubber or poly work just as good on the tranny!
Bernie
Go with a stock rear tranny mount. There isn't enough torsional stress on the tranny mount to cause the problem you have at the motor mounts. Rubber or poly work just as good on the tranny!
Bernie
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Verdad Gallardo
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
So you use solid mounts on both the engine and transmission? Doesn't that run a risk of cracking an aluminum transmission case?
I have a set of ES poly motor mounts that I haven't installed, but I'm seriously considering going solid. Just trying to work out all the details.
Also, I have those solid rear crossmember mounts. I can't decide if I should go ahead and use the poly cushion for the differential tongue mount or if I should make an aluminum replacement. Any thoughts?
I have a set of ES poly motor mounts that I haven't installed, but I'm seriously considering going solid. Just trying to work out all the details.
Also, I have those solid rear crossmember mounts. I can't decide if I should go ahead and use the poly cushion for the differential tongue mount or if I should make an aluminum replacement. Any thoughts?
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 216
Likes: 1
From: Lapeer Michigan
I agree with Norvals reply, I also use solid motor mount's and everything else is ploy.
No vibration from my roller motor either.
What ever you use to lift the motor, put it on the bottom side of the block and oil pan lip/bolt head.
I have many oil pans dented and that changes the gap to the oil pump pickup.
I use a 3'8" X 12" extinsion with a bottle jack, it only needs a 1/4' to remove the mount's.
A 1/4" drive gets at the bolt's easy.
No vibration from my roller motor either.
What ever you use to lift the motor, put it on the bottom side of the block and oil pan lip/bolt head.
I have many oil pans dented and that changes the gap to the oil pump pickup.
I use a 3'8" X 12" extinsion with a bottle jack, it only needs a 1/4' to remove the mount's.
A 1/4" drive gets at the bolt's easy.
It is easier if you loosen or remove the through bolts in the tranny first. I do the passengers side first, then the drivers side and then you usually pry the tranny mount over a little to get those bolts started.
If you leave the tranny bolts in the drivers side is often the problem side with aligning the bolts.
I did this 2 weeks ago with no probems but I do take the tranny bolts out first.
I am also a fan of solid mounts. When I pull a tranny I replace the solid mounts with rubber mounts to allow the mounts to flex when I lower the tranny but once the tranny is back in I do a quick mount change.
If you leave the tranny bolts in the drivers side is often the problem side with aligning the bolts.
I did this 2 weeks ago with no probems but I do take the tranny bolts out first.
I am also a fan of solid mounts. When I pull a tranny I replace the solid mounts with rubber mounts to allow the mounts to flex when I lower the tranny but once the tranny is back in I do a quick mount change.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 162
From: columbia city in
Pro
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 647
Likes: 22
From: Norwalk CT and Boynton Beach FL
I have a 75 L-82 with 75K miles and have never replaced my motor mounts but the way I would do it would be to build a |_| out of 2x4 or 2x6's so the oil pan would fit in the middle without any pressure on it so all the pressure would be on the block as you jack it up from the middle. Any problem with doing it this way? I probably need mountsd myself and should do them in the spring when it warms up in CT
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 8
From: Hamilton NJ
I have a 75 L-82 with 75K miles and have never replaced my motor mounts but the way I would do it would be to build a |_| out of 2x4 or 2x6's so the oil pan would fit in the middle without any pressure on it so all the pressure would be on the block as you jack it up from the middle. Any problem with doing it this way? I probably need mountsd myself and should do them in the spring when it warms up in CT
BTW it was 27 F in central jersey yesterday...no need to wait for the warm up to get it done...
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I replaced mine yesterday on my 79 L82. I followed the advice of a sagely restorer friend (2x Bloomington Gold Top Flight NCRS restorations) who directed me to lift from the balancer with a notched 2 x 4 on a bottle jack. I used my DD's regular scissor jack and it worked like a charm. Just enough height to pull the frame bolt was all I needed. Only snag was the power steering pump bracket. Got around it by jacking up a smidge for clearance then back down to line up the bolts. No probs at all. Drivers side was split in two, passenger's was still pretty much intact but showing its age (pretty sure they were original).
BTW it was 27 F in central jersey yesterday...no need to wait for the warm up to get it done...
BTW it was 27 F in central jersey yesterday...no need to wait for the warm up to get it done...
It's an average of 30 around here, but my garage always seems to be 10 degrees colder than outside air temp. Anyone know why?
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 8
From: Hamilton NJ
Can't say since I don't have a garage, just a nice dirty, windy, cold driveway. Makes completing a challenging maintenance task all the sweeter...
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Tonight, when you hear a knock at the door, and you look down on the empty porch and see a flaming brown paper bag...be sure to stomp it out so it doesn't burn up your front deck.