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Yeah, I was looking at some of your rollcage pics today and thinking the same thing. I like the flat back window shark body design better, but for the rollcage it is going to be rough (flat window sucks for lane changes too...).
[QUOTE=norvalwilhelm;1559322451]. I wanted the cage removable for powdercoating, for insurance purposes and in a police check they can demand the cage is removed.QUOTE]
but no one will notice the BLOWER STICKING OUT OF THE HOOD ??
..redvetracr
Yeah, I was looking at some of your rollcage pics today and thinking the same thing. I like the flat back window shark body design better, but for the rollcage it is going to be rough (flat window sucks for lane changes too...).
I could have bought nearly any used Vette for the price of my 79. I should have bought a C=3 race car. But the new earodynamic body with lots of cargo room intreged (SP?) me. I used to take long trips with a passenger and I've been around Vettes for many years and the flat rear windows just sucks for storage.
rear view really becomes limited with cages and 5 point seats
When do I need a roll bar or roll cage, and what should it look like?
A roll bar is required in any convertible running 13.99 seconds or quicker in the quarter mile, and in other cars beginning at 11.99. The roll bar is accepted in vehicles running as quick as 10.00 second e.t., provided the stock firewall and floorboard is intact, other than for installation of wheel tubs. The rollbar must be constructed of minimum 1 ¾ inch o.d. x .118 inch wall mild steel tubing, or 1 ¾ x .083 chrome moly tubing, and must conform to the following diagram:
If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. A full roll cage is required in any vehicle running 9.99 seconds or quicker, and any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing, and must conform to the following diagram:
I want it to be scca certifiable in case I go to sebring
Then do the 10.99 and quicker cage and it will pass SCCA. It really comes down to: Are you just after looks? Or do you really want function and true safety? I went over the rules. I use .134 wall 1 3/4. Yes, it is heavier.
I also have always ridden my rice bikes with the best helmets and leathers made. Even when the law required no helmet. How much is your head worth? Or like the summer dumb asses on fast bikes going in and out of traffic 100 mph in shorts and sandles with a babe on the back in a bikini without helmets
Yeah safety is an issue, but I also don't want a full roll cage...yet. The rule book doesn't talk about making a bracket off the frame for the foot area side bar, but I don't see any other way to do it. Also, with a swing bar IRS, NHRA doesn't allow you to go faster than 10.99 anyway, so the roll bar to 10.00 should suffice. I wonder how they look at the Drag vette setup or the Tom's IRS setup? Don't see it in the rules anywhere.
Don't get me wrong on the body style George, I like ALL vette body styles, in fact the first one I rode in was a '79 with hooker sidepipes...decided I wanted one then and there and had my '76 about 2 months later. Yours is particularly sweet. Yeah, I should have looked around for a race car myself, would have a lot less money in it.
Yeah safety is an issue, but I also don't want a full roll cage...yet. The rule book doesn't talk about making a bracket off the frame for the foot area side bar, but I don't see any other way to do it.
I have a welded plate inboard from each frame rail for the front down bar in the foot area.
The correct way to do it: cut through the raised portion next to the door sill. The whole pipe would then be right against the frame rail and you could run a bead down each side. Or maybe even notch the pipe so 1/2 of it would be on the frame rail and down the side.
I have the S&W swing outs just like TT. I just never installed them.
Nice picture Chris. I just looked up the NHRA rule and 1 3/4" OD .118 mild steel or .83 4130 chromoly tubing is required except for the harness back brace which is 1 1/4" .118 or .065 4130 chromoly tubing. Also, the back brace needs to be mounted 'no higher' than the down tubes.
Nice picture Chris. I just looked up the NHRA rule and 1 3/4" OD .118 mild steel or .83 4130 chromoly tubing is required except for the harness back brace which is 1 1/4" .118 or .065 4130 chromoly tubing. Also, the back brace needs to be mounted 'no higher' than the down tubes.
I determine that the green tubes aren't going to work.
So I'll have to make the back braces equal to the down tubes?
I'll update the picture
Edit:I also want to keep the bar sway from my head and it will be almost touching the rear window
And I plan on using stock door panels
Last edited by Yellow73SB; Mar 27, 2007 at 07:19 PM.
I'll try that for the down pipe. I ordered also ordered an S&W swing out kit yesterday or I would offer to buy 1 from ya.
I'll post pics as I get closer. Having trouble getting the gas tank out atm...
The shop that did mine did not remove the gas tank. They pulled the lines over and away from the top of the frame rails.
I still have the stock door handles inplace. They shut against the 45 degree side bar. Posted above another guy here on the forum put another upright 1/2 way - right next to the seat for side impact. But that is a NO swing out bar car
Couple of other NHRA issues with your picture. You might read the rules over a couple of times so u don't have to redo something later.
1. The back support bars for the hoop can't be more than 5" below the top of the hoop where u weld them to the hoop.
2. Hoop has to be <=6" from back of drivers head.