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Bought a prefab 8-point rollcage from Jegs and I'm gona install it to NHRA specs very soon while I'm waiting on my motor to be built (I think to meet 'rollbar' requirements is all, which I think go to 10.0 sec?). Anyway I have a manual, need to read it again. It's a '76 with stock interior.
Any tips and especially pictures would be very appreciated.
Yeah, the Jegs 'rollbar' didn't meet the NHRA rollbar standards, so I bought an 8 point kit and will probably do a 6 point (or even 5 point as only drivers side door needs the bar on the side). Will probably do a swing out bar as well as it looks like they are ok?
It looks like I need to weld it directly to the frame? Don't think I need the 6"X6" plates for a OEM frame do I? I think I'm reading this correctly.
For the front post right by your foot you can weld a standoff to the frame and then weld the down tube to this standoff. If keeps the bar right tight to the door and at the same time makes it possible to do the welding.
Since my cage can be removed/unbolted I just put a stub up through the floor. This stub is extremely heavy walled stainless tubing with a plug in the end and a 5/8th grade 8 cap screw is inserted from underneath and goes into a threaded slug in the DOM tubing.
Norval can you post up some more pictures? We are planning of having some one put one in now.
Turns out this guy sponsors my dad's friends race car and is good friends with another guy my dad knows.
I am mostly looking for how it fits around the dash. I found the other pictures through searching. And the only dash one I found was with the lower pad removed.
My cage is NOT NOT legal because the bolted together flanges. I wanted the cage removable for powdercoating, for insurance purposes and in a police check they can demand the cage is removed.
Again it is NOT legal because of the bolted together flanges but from an engineering point of view properly bolted and welded flanges are just as strong as welded tubing.
The bolt in deal alowed me to run most of the tube extremely tight to the interior trim, was able to finish all welds in the tight spots, could have it powder coated when finished and if demanded I could quickly remove it and again install it after the inspection.
The tubes through the firewall have to say as does the stubs comming up throught the floor by your foot.
This is how I did the front down bar and no guys I am not loosing it. I got PM a private message. I used extra heavy stainless tubing, put a end cap on it with a 5/8th hole through it. I welded this tube to a heavy plate, cut a hole in the floor right next to the edge of the door and inserted this from the bottom up. I held it to the frame with a jack and welded it into place. I then butted the down tube to the top of this standoff and the down tube had a threaded insert welded on the inside. I insert a 5/8th fine cap screw up from under the car and thread it into the down tube and snug it up.
This is not legal, don't mention screwing anything or some guys will jump all over you but secretly alot of cage are screwed in places.
I didn't want to cut large holes in the frame to weld the rear bars and yet I wanted a good attachment to the frame.
I made up 4 angle iron mounts. They are heavy duty angle gussets welded on the underside that rest on the frame and a side wing that allows a sold extra weld to the frame.
I cut a Tee hole in the fiberglass, inserted these inserts, drilled and taped the frame for a 1/4 inch bolt to hold them in place, used a level to level the inside mounting surface and then welded the solid to the frame, removed the bolt, welded this hole also closed and then ground and painted everything. This was my plateform for the rear bar.
Actually there are 3 per side. Pull the tire and you see 3 mounts for 3 seperate bars per side. I then used caukling aroung the standoff to prevent dirt and water from entering the interior.
I bolted the inside bars with flanges welded to their bottoms with 4 5/16 grade 8 bolts
Thats incredibly well done Norval, If I thought the tracks would all let me get away with it I would try to do it exactly as you did. Those pictures are veryhelpful regardless.
Two questions the NHRA rule book doesn't seem to address.
1. for the side bar on the floor (by your feet). Can u weld a bracket for the bar to the frame or do you have to weld the bar directly to the frame? How picky are tracks on this particular issue?
2. For the hoop and back hoop braces. Can't they be bolted to the frame like you have it set up according to the rules? Do the plates have to be 6" X 6" or can they be sized down like yours?
I have a standoff on the frame, it's a section of rect. tubing w/ a hole drilled in it to slide the downbar in, on the underside it's gusseted. You can see it in the pics above and this design drawing (gussets not drawn):
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Mar 12, 2007 at 05:26 AM.
Norval and his drill bits...Looks good guys. I like the idea of a removable cage especially for ease of working on it and detailing.
TT, looks awsome, coming along nicely. What is that yellow car parked behind ur vette in the second pic?? you only need 6 more radiators to compete with the 10 in the Bugatti Veyron...even though it looks like you have a trans cooler and 2 turbo intercoolers. I like the setup.
Anyone ever seen a rollcage in a c3 convertible? not the sharkbar.
Something to improve the cars rigidity from its current noodle-like characteristics and still stay somewhat hidden with the top down.
Thanks TT. I guess the term I should use is 'stand off', but I am still curious, are these allowed per the NHRA rulebook? The book doesn't seem to say u can't do that, but I think it does say the bars need welded to the frame?
OK, I am starting to install the rollcage this week. Got the car level on jackstands and cleared out the seats and speaker box.
I showed the breaker box because I had to rewire my garage for 220 so I could use my brothers Miller welder, my little 110 doesn't do well on thin stuff.
Tomorrow I remove the gas tank and carpet, then start chopping!