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Rollcage update (pics)

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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 08:02 PM
  #21  
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I can't see a problem with it. I can see turtles being a bit better design for only a 4 point but once you add more points I don't see it helping.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 08:36 PM
  #22  
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Anyone got pics of the hoop goin all the way done?
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 08:42 PM
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I'm finishing my install tomorrow. We clear coated it also. It's nice and shiny.

Last edited by Yellow73SB; Apr 20, 2007 at 08:44 PM.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 10:35 PM
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-Yeah guys, the hoop behind me is a done deal, best plan or not at this point. It's good to hear that tech isn't saying anything, would have been surprised if they did though really as I have combed the NHRA rulebook several times and there is no mention whatsoever as to where the main hoop 'must' be mounted. I hope to work on it some more tomorrow, needs a little 'fitting' still to get proper headline clearance. My goal tomorrow is to get the seat brace welded in, get everything fitted, then prime/paint/clearcoat. May weld in the hoop Sunday and then I work on the swing out bar...

I'll try to get a few pics posted tomorrow.

Great Chris, post some pics when your done. I got sidetracked with the new body mounts/frame repair on #4's etc. Took a lot of time on that, but it turned out well.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 01:30 AM
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hey dave...shud i be running a rollbar on my bb vert,stroked,475+hp to limit frame twist? is this just nhra req. or just a good idea anyways? thanks fred...ps never be ashamed of your welding... if you can do it at all you're 150% better than most
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 10:08 AM
  #26  
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Frame twist isn't really a problem on these cars. And I am running around that much horsepower and I don't think it's nearly enough to twist the frame.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 11:17 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Yellow73SB
I can't see a problem with it. I can see turtles being a bit better design for only a 4 point but once you add more points I don't see it helping.
it'd be cool if somone could do an analysis.

i'm drawing it out on paper right now.



I did my rear braces much different than i've seen you guys do them. Instead of running it straight back i put an angle on it. In addition, it attaches to the top of the hoop rather than 1/2 way up. This in my opinion creates some effective triangulation side to side and maybe some less effective triangulation front to rear.

If you envision force trying to bend one side of the frame after the kickup in the upwards direction, that force will create a vector on that rear support in turn pushing in several directions on the hoop. The other rear brace acts as a restraining arm. So if you envision force being in 3 directions:

1. pushing towards the front of the car.
2. pushing towards the side of the car.
3 pushing up on the hoop

I think this creates a stronger overall system providing perhaps some stiffening for the rear of the car.

The disadvantage is obvious. Some rear window obstruction. The inspector has not said anything for the past 2 years. If you think about how much window a vert has, i still think i have at least that much view.

When TT wakes up we'll see if he agrees.

Last edited by turtlevette; Apr 21, 2007 at 01:24 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 07:10 PM
  #28  
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OK, here are some pics, just got done painting/clearcoating it. Gona try to work on the swing out bar tomorrow. Again, don't kill me on the welds please
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Last edited by CorvetteDave01; Apr 21, 2007 at 07:29 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 07:15 PM
  #29  
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Looks like you're doing fine. I just had a custom one built in my car so I could still use the soft top as well as it was made removable. I have swing out bars and it was made out of Chromemoly and was powdercoated.

You're getting it all done for a lot less than I did!!

Keep it up!

JIM
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 07:29 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
it'd be cool if somone could do an analysis.

i'm drawing it out on paper right now.



I did my rear braces much different than i've seen you guys do them. Instead of running it straight back i put an angle on it. In addition, it attaches to the top of the hoop rather than 1/2 way up. This in my opinion creates some effective triangulation side to side and maybe some less effective triangulation front to rear.

If you envision force trying to bend one side of the frame after the kickup in the upwards direction, that force will create a vector on that rear support in turn pushing in several directions on the hoop. The other rear brace acts as a restraining arm. So if you envision force being in 3 directions:

1. pushing towards the front of the car.
2. pushing towards the side of the car.
3 pushing up on the hoop

I think this creates a stronger overall system providing perhaps some stiffening for the rear of the car.

The disadvantage is obvious. Some rear window obstruction. The inspector has not said anything for the past 2 years. If you think about how much window a vert has, i still think i have at least that much view.

When TT wakes up we'll see if he agrees.
I'd say yours is better.

I'm thinking of door bars also. I'll probably end up with the swing outs.

I just finished mine up today. Couldn't say I noticed to much of a difference. Forgot the camera though.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 07:35 PM
  #31  
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I think we have about the same rear hoop Chris. I'm just doing the driver's side swing out, don't want to mess with the passenger side and don't need it down to 10.0, I believe.

Are you welding yours in or bolting, I'm still debating...
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 07:46 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by CorvetteDave01
I think we have about the same rear hoop Chris. I'm just doing the driver's side swing out, don't want to mess with the passenger side and don't need it down to 10.0, I believe.

Are you welding yours in or bolting, I'm still debating...
I don't know if you 'need it' to be NHRA-legal to run 10-ohs, but I recall an article in a bracket-racing magazine several years ago involving a low 12-second Nova that ran inconsistent ETs:
with no other changes than the addition of an 8-point bar, the car (owned by the magazine editor, and driven by his wife ) became much-more competitive and won several races locally, so, from a competitive-standpoint, the passenger-side diagonal door-bar might-be worth it.

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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 07:48 PM
  #33  
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bolting?? tisk tisk
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 08:23 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by CorvetteDave01
I think we have about the same rear hoop Chris. I'm just doing the driver's side swing out, don't want to mess with the passenger side and don't need it down to 10.0, I believe.

Are you welding yours in or bolting, I'm still debating...
I weled mine in today. It feels very sturdy

The swing out on only one side sounds like a good idea. Do they sell a kit for only one side though?
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 08:28 PM
  #35  
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The S&W Racing kit I bought was one side only, think 39.95 was the price, you can find them with a google.
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 11:34 PM
  #36  
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Just about got the swing out bar done today, forgot to get pics though. I wish I would have bolted in the standoff already, so it was removable. I am seriously thinking about making the main hoop bolt-in at this point, although it will take way longer to get it cut down further, fab up plates, nuts or tapped steel plates etc. Only thing I'm worried about is losing some rigidity, but I would think the bolted in cage has got to be just as rigid when bolted in tightly?
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Yellow73SB
Frame twist isn't really a problem on these cars. And I am running around that much horsepower and I don't think it's nearly enough to twist the frame.
BTDT... If you're going to ever put slicks on a Vette with enough power to pull the front wheels, be certain to keep an eye on twist by stringing it up and plumb-bobbing your frame regularly. Should your start seeing any changes, it's either time to go full cage with tubes all the way to the front towers or retire the car from the strip before you seriously twist it to a point where you'll have to re-jig the chassis to get it square again. Once it gets tweaked past about 1" - 1 1/2" or so, the frame shop likely can't pull it out without potentially causing further damage.

Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Apr 22, 2007 at 11:52 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 11:58 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Yellow73SB
Frame twist isn't really a problem on these cars. And I am running around that much horsepower and I don't think it's nearly enough to twist the frame.
Originally Posted by CorvetteDave01
Just about got the swing out bar done today, forgot to get pics though. I wish I would have bolted in the standoff already, so it was removable. I am seriously thinking about making the main hoop bolt-in at this point, although it will take way longer to get it cut down further, fab up plates, nuts or tapped steel plates etc. Only thing I'm worried about is losing some rigidity, but I would think the bolted in cage has got to be just as rigid when bolted in tightly?
Both Norval and TT are sleeping or working on a joint venture C3 time machine.
I've heard mentioned several times on here how bad the C3 frame is and will twist like a wet noodle. The spot welds on the frame are not very strong. Someone had a video of their car and when they hit the gas you could see the frame really twist. Don't remember if the car was on a dyno or on jackstands, but the camera had full view of the underside. It was a crazy sight.
I can personally tell you that when I had a rolling chasis without drivetrain I could lift one corner off the ground and the frame would bend in front of my eyes.

Norval and I beleive a few others have the removable cages bolted to standoffs. If you use the proper Grade 8 or 9 bolts and torque them down good it should be just as rigid if not more than if it were welded to the frame. I'd like to see some pics of a rollcage in a vert.

Dave, that looks great, keep up the good work
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 02:55 PM
  #39  
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I was talking about when you launch the car with slicks at a drag track it doesn't twist like other cars. Thats what he was talking about. I've never seen a c3 twist at the drag track.


I welded some un-welded spots on the rear part after you take the tire off. I'll probably try and weld more though.

Last edited by Yellow73SB; Apr 23, 2007 at 02:57 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Yellow73SB
I was talking about when you launch the car with slicks at a drag track it doesn't twist like other cars. Thats what he was talking about. I've never seen a c3 twist at the drag track.

I welded some un-welded spots on the rear part after you take the tire off. I'll probably try and weld more though.
You are correct that a C3 doesn't twist like a lot of C-channel framed cars but, having personally twisted a fully caged car some 2 1/2" diagonally, I can assure you that a C3 with a stout mill will twist at the strip enough to hurt itself eventually if precautions are not taken to minimize and monitor it.

In addition to installing at least a 6-point, it would probably be a good idea to weld up every inch of the frame you can reach, and to do some triangulating in the area around the transmission mount (being it's so far between the front crossmember and the kickup). A good reference is Twin_Turbo's work in that area.

Not saying other systems aren't sound, but thought I'd share the "typical" cage cited by the factory for C3's that used to be in the Power Manual, since I finally figured out how...

Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Apr 24, 2007 at 01:24 PM.
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