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Rollcage update (pics)

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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 09:51 PM
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Default Rollcage update (pics)

Hey all,

I finally got my body mounts repaired and replaced, so back to the roll cage. I pretty much have the main hoop and down tubes setup, need to cut a bit off the main hoop to drop it for some headliner clearance, but I'm going to try to get it as close as possible without touching.

Here are some pics, what does everyone think? Now is the time for criticism, lol.
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 10:18 PM
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why does everyone weld the main hoop to the kickup area of the frame?
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 10:26 PM
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I guess to clear interior panels and get as much seat room as possible. That's why I did it anyway. Is that bad? I don't think the NHRA rules say anything except that it needs welded/bolted to the frame (among other specs).

DW
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 10:35 PM
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I'm glad you're doing this because it has inspired me to frame mine. My question is, is the loop made to go to the floor behind the seat? Or did you modify it to where you have it?

Chris
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 10:57 PM
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I actually bought a prefab 8 point mild steel cage for a c3 from Jegs (Jegster). It was designed to weld to the frame behind the seats, but I really didn't want to chop up that part of the car, so cut it down and had it bent in slightly on either side so that it could be welded to the kickup area of the frame.

I think the 8 point kit was $150+$75 shipping+$40 for the S&W swing out bar kit, so I will have all of $265 + a ton of time into the cage. Not sure how much people charge to install these.

I also am building it to NHRA, 5-point 'rollbar' specs that should make it good to a 10.0 quarter mile times, which I won't be able to run anyway.
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 04:20 AM
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For what it's worth, after referencing the old testament, I mean vintage Chevy Power book Corvette (C3) Chassis Section, chapter 5, verse 3, it appears the almighty factory had no problem advising attachment of the main hoop to the kick-up area for use in very serious racing applications of the era. Then again, that hoop location was part of a heavily triangulated, 396 point cage system.
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
why does everyone weld the main hoop to the kickup area of the frame?
Dave told you the right thing. The seat ends up pressed back against the battery box. You are trying to get triangulation to make the frame stiffer. The bigger the triangles the better
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
why does everyone weld the main hoop to the kickup area of the frame?
Where else can you weld it?
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by CorvetteDave01
I actually bought a prefab 8 point mild steel cage for a c3 from Jegs (Jegster). It was designed to weld to the frame behind the seats, but I really didn't want to chop up that part of the car, so cut it down and had it bent in slightly on either side so that it could be welded to the kickup area of the frame.

I think the 8 point kit was $150+$75 shipping+$40 for the S&W swing out bar kit, so I will have all of $265 + a ton of time into the cage. Not sure how much people charge to install these.

I also am building it to NHRA, 5-point 'rollbar' specs that should make it good to a 10.0 quarter mile times, which I won't be able to run anyway.
How does the halo and front down tubes fit? I might get the 4 to full roll cage kit if it fits good.
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Yellow73SB
Where else can you weld it?
where it was designed to be welded.

down low before the frame kicks up
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 03:12 PM
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I couldn't fit in then

I barely have enough leg room as it is.
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 09:09 PM
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OK guys thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately, I can't redo where I am welding the hoop to the frame at this point, so I will just have to make it work. I see what you mean about stiffening the frame better the other way, but it's not like I am running that much hp (550ish).

Have the down tubes welded up to the hoop tonight, will work on the seat brace and swing out door/bar this weekend. Will post some picks if you all don't make fun of me too much on my welds, they will pass any inspection, but aren't a work of art, lol.
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by CorvetteDave01
Will post some picks if you all don't make fun of me too much on my welds, they will pass any inspection, but aren't a work of art, lol.
Tig or mig? And I, for one, am in no possition to make fun of your welds.

Also, I hope you're at ease with your main hoop location as it appears most anyone who's really thought it out ends up with the same solution. I believe it actually better facilitates triangulation from there forward than if you were to put the hoop down ahead of the kickup, anyway. (If anyone has evidence otherwise, here's your chance to state your case.)

Keep posting updates...
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
where it was designed to be welded.

down low before the frame kicks up
I did a test fit for my 4-point before the frame kicks up. I couldn't put the seat all the way back and the side of the seat hit the vertical pillar. I am only 6ft but I still need the seat ALL the way back. So I welded mine in like Dave....
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by oregonsharkman
I did a test fit for my 4-point before the frame kicks up. I couldn't put the seat all the way back and the side of the seat hit the vertical pillar. I am only 6ft but I still need the seat ALL the way back. So I welded mine in like Dave....

I've got C4 seats and they don't interfere with the bar. I believe the whole system is stronger the way i did it.
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 11:48 PM
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
I've got C4 seats and they don't interfere with the bar. I believe the whole system is stronger the way i did it.
I'm no engineer, but the factory advice would appear to be contrary. However, before deciding for myself, if seat interference doesn't pose itself as an issue, I may go to the trouble of building a couple of balsa models to test out. But, please, anyone else is welcomed to do that and report findings to save me the trouble if you have the spare time on your hands...
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
I'm no engineer, but the factory advice would appear to be contrary. ..

where?
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by CorvetteDave01
Will post some picks if you all don't make fun of me too much on my welds, they will pass any inspection, but aren't a work of art, lol.
The ONLY way I'd make fun of you on your welds is if they looked like I did them.

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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 01:27 AM
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
where?
Check the Chevy Power manual's recommendations, as I refered to earlier. Of course, you'll need to find a vintage edition which included the Corvette Chassis Section for road racing C3's. The design in question was aimed at Trans-Am competition back in the day when Corvettes shook the planet. If I were smart enough to figure out how to include a picture, I'd share the three view suggested. ...not saying anything's inherently wrong with yours...

Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Apr 20, 2007 at 01:30 AM.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 07:26 PM
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That's how I did mine and it's really nice having it behind you. There should be nothing wrong with attaching to the upper frame, I've never had a tech comment on mine being located there.

Looks like your're making some great progress
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