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St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
Originally Posted by DJ Dep
Wouldn't that be a bit pricey? Might be cheaper to just buy a new 4-bolt block.
Dep
Bought the caps (chevy vette caps) from the machine shop and had the work done for $200. Its getting hard to find used blocks around here and 4 bolt blocks are even harder to find. I thought the price was very fare for the work.
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
I know of a guy running over 950 with a two bolt and studs, pretty stout 454 with a 350 shot of nitrous. I would almost be willing to bet a two bolt with studs is stronger than a four bolt with conventional bolts.
Bought the caps (chevy vette caps) from the machine shop and had the work done for $200. Its getting hard to find used blocks around here and 4 bolt blocks are even harder to find. I thought the price was very fare for the work.
Neal
That's not bad at all. Last I saw Moroso also had caps for sale.
I know of a guy running over 950 with a two bolt and studs, pretty stout 454 with a 350 shot of nitrous. I would almost be willing to bet a two bolt with studs is stronger than a four bolt with conventional bolts.
Bought the caps (chevy vette caps) from the machine shop and had the work done for $200. Its getting hard to find used blocks around here and 4 bolt blocks are even harder to find. I thought the price was very fare for the work.
Neal
Thought I saw this thread I started this in General this morning.
Bought the caps (chevy vette caps) from the machine shop and had the work done for $200. Its getting hard to find used blocks around here and 4 bolt blocks are even harder to find. I thought the price was very fare for the work.
Neal
Those GM caps are dirt cheap, I think I paid $70 for the set. My block needed line boring for the retro fit, which in turn required a .005" shorter timing chain. I'm not even close to needing a 4 bolt block, but spent the money just in case.
The Milodon kit doesn't include the rear main, I think the front is optional and it's two bolt.
I saw a thing about the 2 bolt small blocks having thicker webbing in the lower end and putting 4 bolt caps really increased the strength. Factoy SB's only had 4 bolts in the 2,3,and 4, with the front and rear still 2 bolts.
My 4 bolt BB has factory caps and are 4 bolt all the way thru.
Makes me wonder if maybe the 2 bolt BB's are a little thicker in the webs too. A 2 bolt block, refit for 4 bolt splayed caps might be the real answer.
Loots og good info here. But does anyone now how much HP it can take at it is?
Where to buy studs and caps, and how to install??
All that must be done in a machine shop, and cant by done by meself, will be werry expencive here in Norway. Most shops wont even take small tings, because they have so many large customers in line. (offshore industry are pressuring the prices up.)
So the bottom line is, that if i cant do it myself, i will reach the price of a crate engine real quick. And i was hopeng to spend around $3000 at max on the engine + some good headers (stans maybe???)
This is the projekt for next winter. The summer is time for driving an colecting info. The winter is the time for improving the car.
Last edited by kayosnes; Apr 22, 2007 at 06:40 PM.
Had a 396 and a 1973 454 both had two bolt mains
forged factory cranks spun both engines to 7500 rpm. don't
loose any sleep worrying about a two bolt main big block.
Loots og good info here. But does anyone now how much HP it can take at it is?
Where to buy studs and caps, and how to install??
All that must be done in a machine shop, and cant by done by meself, will be werry expencive here in Norway. Most shops wont even take small tings, because they have so many large customers in line. (offshore industry are pressuring the prices up.)
So the bottom line is, that if i cant do it myself, i will reach the price of a crate engine real quick. And i was hopeng to spend around $3000 at max on the engine + some good headers (stans maybe???)
This is the projekt for next winter. The summer is time for driving an colecting info. The winter is the time for improving the car.
They have the splayed caps there. I suspect they will cost more than standard caps to install. Drilling them is a bit trickier. Splayed will give you even more strength/RPM than inline bolts. Definitely a job for a really good machine shop.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Guys, he's looking to make sure he's safe with the 2-bolt if he adds the Edelbrock Performer package. I advised studs as insurance on another thread. Looks like the high cost of machining where he is makes the 4-bolt option too expensive for what he's planning, as long as he doesn't give it a shot or pressurize it...
For the Edelbrock package, a 2 bolt will work every bit as well as the 4 bolt. It's not he's going to add 300+ horsepower to it. No gas and a carb? No deal. Throw the package on and ENJOY!!!!!!!!!!
Guys, he's looking to make sure he's safe with the 2-bolt if he adds the Edelbrock Performer package. I advised studs as insurance on another thread. Looks like the high cost of machining where he is makes the 4-bolt option too expensive for what he's planning, as long as he doesn't give it a shot or pressurize it...
Anyone agree???
Well i have decided that if i add an edelbrock package it will be the performer RPM.(including alu cylynder heads , intake,carb,cam) Adverised it is 539pft\lbs and 540HP. (max torque is between 3000and5500rpm)
I will not use that car at a higher rpm than 5500 (automatic shifts before 5500 as it is anyway. \ TH400)
I was hoping that my engine would be ok with this package with modifications i dont need a machine shop for. if not, it will newer be installed. (the it will be: start to save money for crate engine.)
Does it sound ok to run this package if i have the stock 2 bolt w\ studs???
Last edited by kayosnes; Apr 23, 2007 at 02:46 AM.
Reason: wrong spelling
I know of a guy running over 950 with a two bolt and studs, pretty stout 454 with a 350 shot of nitrous. I would almost be willing to bet a two bolt with studs is stronger than a four bolt with conventional bolts.
Do you now what torque you use on the studs, compared to the conventional bolts????
Why don't you find a local engine builder that you can trust and have him advise you on a performance package? Edelbrock's heads aren't bad but their cams are old school. Different car's weight, tranny, gearing, converter, etc. and intended useage will call for different camshafts. The cam for a 4000lbs Chevelle won't be the same as for a 3300lbs Corvette or a 5000lbs truck. If you can scrape funds together, go hydraulic roller. The AlGore faction of our government is doing all they can to remove all the additives from oil that provide adequate lubrication for flat tappet camshafts and as they do, you'll see more and more folks with flat cams, even those that have successful cam break-ins and thousands of miles of run time on them. One flattened cam lobe will cost you much more than the switch to hydraulic roller right now.
as long as he doesn't give it a shot or pressurize it...
Anyone agree???
I helped run a drag boat about 15 years ago. It had a 427 with a 2 bolt main block and studs. Static compression ratio was 5.6-1 with an 8-71 Mooneyham blower making 22 pounds of boost. The motor made well over 1000 hp and turned 7500 rpm. Never had a mechanical failure, in fact the motor is in a pulling truck right now.