When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I agree that the 2 spacers where used to help hold the windshield in its proper position when it was installed. I believe however that the top portion of the spacer was dipped in liquid rubber (plastic?) to protect the windshield. I don't think there was a rubber spacer used because that would push the windshield up too far.
From the picture it looks like the spacer is turned slightly and is not flush with the edge of the glass and has put too much pressure on the glass at one point.
Regards,
Alan
I did find a very thin coating at the tips of the clips but it seemed more like tape than anything. I'm going to get an estimate to have the crack fixed.
Does anyone know where one might purchase a set of these clips? I have looked around the various suppliers and have not found them yet. I have one that the top has broken off. Oh it's a 73 coup.
With most insurance coverage, you normally have full coverage for glass replacement. Check your coverage, the take it to a professional and get it done right --- new glass, no rerpairs
From expirience on my '76 there were also spacers that went behind the windshield. This left enough standoff betweeen the windshield and frame for the trim pieces to fit properly ask me howI know
Good news was a new windshield installed (I did take the old one out) was 175 bucks installed and he had it the next day.
It is not unusual to have rust issues going on under the glass. The discoloration on the dash might be an indication of this. You might consider taking the glass out yourself and do the windshield frame correctly before having the glass done. The glass man will just put new glass on top of a rusty frame.
Very nice writeup, thanks for passing it along. My next winter project!
You're welcome. It really is quite straightforward - it's all about the depth so the trim ends up correctly [just] touching the glass all around. You can actually do the windshield change in a day if you have everything ready (including a helper!) - so lots of room on that winter project list for other things!
It is not unusual to have rust issues going on under the glass. The discoloration on the dash might be an indication of this. You might consider taking the glass out yourself and do the windshield frame correctly before having the glass done. The glass man will just put new glass on top of a rusty frame.
I agree with this. Even if the glass guy does it, have them take it out, you inspect, clean and repair the frame (including the recommended primer), then have it installed once it's ready. Also, you can use those itty-bitty racing bicycle tubes (cut up into small 'bands') to strech over the clips supporting the glass. Nice and thin and it looks great.
Hans
Last edited by Wrencher; Jul 11, 2007 at 02:35 PM.
You're welcome. It really is quite straightforward - it's all about the depth so the trim ends up correctly [just] touching the glass all around. You can actually do the windshield change in a day if you have everything ready (including a helper!) - so lots of room on that winter project list for other things!
It looks like in one of the steps of assembling the side reveals, you put a bead of sealer on the surface that will contact the windshield, so when you press the windshield in place with the moldings, you also seal the reveals against the windshield. Did you also put a bead along the windshield edge of the upper reveal molding? I would think so, but want to be sure. I've got to replace mine soon because of a similar crack I caused when I tried to secure the corner moldings left loose by the PO.
pws69;; I Apologize, I do not want to highjack this thread,, I do have a question in respect to the rubber spacers,, What do they look like ?? where can I purchase some ? or can they be manufactured with local materials ? dimensions would be good,,lol. I'v read a lot about them but can't seem to find any pics, and if I ask a shop,, they will most likly look at me real funny without a clue (trust me). Thanks
Cracked a brand new windshield once when installing the pillar post moldings. Used too long a screw, tried to force it in, and 'tink', a crack appeared on the pass side. And then the same guy that put in the first one came out and installed the second.....I had some 'splaining to do....
Felt dumb doing something like that, and you can bet I made certain the screws were the right size the next time around
pws69;; I Apologize, I do not want to highjack this thread,, I do have a question in respect to the rubber spacers,, What do they look like ?? where can I purchase some ? or can they be manufactured with local materials ? dimensions would be good,,lol. I'v read a lot about them but can't seem to find any pics, and if I ask a shop,, they will most likly look at me real funny without a clue (trust me). Thanks
They are about 1/2 to 3/4" square and 3/8" thick. I used some that a friend gave me - but they weren't "special" According to the AIM, there are supposed to be 2 "special" spacers at the bottom corners. I called all over the country over a couple of days looking for them and everyone who actually knew what I was talking about stated they haven't been around in years. I just ended up using 4 of the ones I described and everything turned out very well.
It looks like in one of the steps of assembling the side reveals, you put a bead of sealer on the surface that will contact the windshield, so when you press the windshield in place with the moldings, you also seal the reveals against the windshield. Did you also put a bead along the windshield edge of the upper reveal molding? I would think so, but want to be sure. I've got to replace mine soon because of a similar crack I caused when I tried to secure the corner moldings left loose by the PO.
I used urethane or butyl EXACTLY as called out in the AIM - which is quite specific as to what type of sealers to use, where to use each, and how much to use . You MUST NOT go crazy with the sealers as some things (like the side reveals) actually provide a channel for water to pass down the windshield and pillar post seal then out. This keeps it from going down inside the "bird cage".