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I just dissassembled the clock from our 70 today according to Jay Ney's instructions. When I got inside it, I found one contact baddly pitted and the other contact arm bent upwards & barely hanging on. I guess all the pressure from years of the contact being pushed up by the coil energizing weakened the metal. When I tried delicately to bend the contact arm back down, it broke off. Just my typical luck. Now I will have to buy another clock. I found one one e-bay for $119.00 & free shipping. I sure was hoping mine would be usable yet. It was rebuilt by Corvette Clocks by Roger at one time. We've had the car 10 years, so I guess that's not bad. It sure was a pain getting it out though. When I was removing the instrument bezel, my suspicions of a cracked bezel were true. It was replaced 2 years ago with a repro & today the top half fall into my hand as I removed it. Should have kept the original. It was only cracked on 1 side. Now I should deal with the radio as long as it is out. When I turn it on, I get a scratching noise as I turn the **** & once it is on the noise is gone. I suspect a dirty tuner.
I just replaced mine, Real PITA. Taking the cluster out was real fun.
I bought a quartz replacement. It replaces the inner works. Keeping excellent time.
Since you have it out, you can buy a replacement mechanism (guts) which you install with your frame, faceplate, and needles. You can get them at ZIP Products for about $70 or so. You'll end up with what is, essentially, a new factory-identical clock which has the same second-hand action.
why fix the clock? you should have a battery disconnect switch in these rolling fiberglass fire traps which will stop the clock ( ease of working on the electrical system and a quick power disconnect if/when a wire decides to short out).
jeff