Riveting for dummies
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 396
Likes: 3
From: Buffalo New York
Riveting for dummies
I'm replacing my clutch. The metal clip on the clutch fork is busted. (It's supposed to hold the throwout bearing in place). I ordered a new clip, with rivet. What's the best way to install the rivet properly? Or is it smarter to just buy a new clutch fork? I don't want to hand grenade my new clutch and flywheel !!.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,384
Likes: 6,408
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Rivets are normally "set" using a rivet gun (air hammer) and a bucking bar: You insert the proper "rivet set" into your air hammer, place the set against the head of the rivet with a heavy steel bar on the opposite side of the rivet, and then you "buck" the rivet by hitting the rivet head with the air hammer while the bar is firmly pushed against the opposite end of the rivet. This generally works really well with aluminum rivets - your problem is that the rivet in quetion is a solid steel rivet - they are a real pain to buck unless you have access to a rivet squeezer. I've worked in the aircraft industry for many years, and I've bucked a ton of rivets. I would buy a new clutch fork assembly before trying to buck a 1/4" steel rivet with hand tools...
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Rivets do NOT get their holding strength from the heading on the ends....they get it by completely filling the hole they are squeezed into (the shank squishes to fill the hole). Don't try to just head some rivets in the fork. Get a new one. {I suppose you might weld it together....but someone might call you Bubba}.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Rivets do NOT get their holding strength from the heading on the ends....they get it by completely filling the hole they are squeezed into (the shank squishes to fill the hole). Don't try to just head some rivets in the fork. Get a new one. {I suppose you might weld it together....but someone might call you Bubba}.
Limping across the line
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,299
Likes: 109
From: Peoria Az
Take the fork to a local small airport find a mechanic at a FBO(fixed base operator) and have him buck it for you. give him either a $20 or a 12pack. The steel rivet in those is a mild steel they are easily bucked.I just did one last week.
Or send me all the pieces I'll buck it for you and send it back overnite if you'ld like.
I too am a A&P mechanic and bucking rivets is no big thing once you've got the hang of it.
BTW its not a 1/4in rivet its a 5/32
Or send me all the pieces I'll buck it for you and send it back overnite if you'ld like.
I too am a A&P mechanic and bucking rivets is no big thing once you've got the hang of it.
BTW its not a 1/4in rivet its a 5/32
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 299
From: Midlothian VA
Lars is correct, the steel rivet is difficult to "start" / buck.
And 7T1vette is correct in that rivets expand as they are struck to fill their hole making a tight interference fit with great holding power.
Best part about the rivet is you don't have to worry about them backing off like you would with a tapped screw or bolt.
That said, I replaced the same spring on my clutch fork as you are looking to do. It wasn't that bad.
Set up your fork, spring, and rivet and place them on a very hard surface (I happened to have a small anvil). Using a BFH and a 1/2" steel drift with a concave face you simply beat it into submission/shape.
It's only one rivet and if you don't happen to have a properly faced drift or steel bar you could purchase a rivet set for less than $10 but honestly rivets are cheap and if you screw it up with a flat drift you could always drill it out and try again.
And 7T1vette is correct in that rivets expand as they are struck to fill their hole making a tight interference fit with great holding power.
Best part about the rivet is you don't have to worry about them backing off like you would with a tapped screw or bolt.
That said, I replaced the same spring on my clutch fork as you are looking to do. It wasn't that bad.
Set up your fork, spring, and rivet and place them on a very hard surface (I happened to have a small anvil). Using a BFH and a 1/2" steel drift with a concave face you simply beat it into submission/shape.
It's only one rivet and if you don't happen to have a properly faced drift or steel bar you could purchase a rivet set for less than $10 but honestly rivets are cheap and if you screw it up with a flat drift you could always drill it out and try again.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 1
From: SOUTH ELGIN IL
Bucking a rivet can be done exactly as described above. I have worked for a rivet company (although not "Buck" rivets) for 10 years and watched them installed on everything from aircraft to truck trailers. If you need a workout beat it down while supporting both sides as described, unless you have acess to buck riveting equipment which I am assuming you do not.
I'd probably just buy a new part though. Joint should be more reliable.
I'd probably just buy a new part though. Joint should be more reliable.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,820
Likes: 414
From: Pittsburgh suburbs Pa.
Make a bucking tool
In my antique auto restoration business I have to buck rivets on many of the real old cars to keep them original . I made my own bucking tool out of an old air chisel. Take an old chisel from your air hammer and cut the end off blunt before it starts to taper down. Then on the end, use a dremmel tool or similar to concave the end to hold the end of the rivet in the center of the bit. Back up one end of the rivet with some type of heavy metal object, then put pressure on the other end with the air hammer and the tool that you made. It will easily and quickly do any rivet to look like factory. Also works great on the many factory type rivets that you find on the corvettes.
this is what we did so we can set the factory aluminum rivets in the engine bay on these cars.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,820
Likes: 414
From: Pittsburgh suburbs Pa.
You don't want the tool to just be flat on the end because it would just flare the rivet out in an uneven shape and too wide . By concaving the end it keeps the rivet balled up in a neat mushroom shape just like the factory look. If you don't understand what concave means, picture a baby moon hubcap turned upside down. that would be a concave shape
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
You don't want the tool to just be flat on the end because it would just flare the rivet out in an uneven shape and too wide . By concaving the end it keeps the rivet balled up in a neat mushroom shape just like the factory look. If you don't understand what concave means, picture a baby moon hubcap turned upside down. that would be a concave shape
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 396
Likes: 3
From: Buffalo New York
In my antique auto restoration business I have to buck rivets on many of the real old cars to keep them original . I made my own bucking tool out of an old air chisel. Take an old chisel from your air hammer and cut the end off blunt before it starts to taper down. Then on the end, use a dremmel tool or similar to concave the end to hold the end of the rivet in the center of the bit. Back up one end of the rivet with some type of heavy metal object, then put pressure on the other end with the air hammer and the tool that you made. It will easily and quickly do any rivet to look like factory. Also works great on the many factory type rivets that you find on the corvettes.
