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with a motor installed and timing chain cover on can you install a fuel pump push rod
Yes, there is a bolt hole with a short bolt in the front of the block on the front of the fuel pump location, which goes in pointing to the back of the fuel pump location toward the cam.. Remove that short bolt, and install a long bolt to hold the push rod up as you guide the pump in and over the cam. Then remove the long bolt and install the short one again.
Last edited by Durango_Boy; Dec 30, 2007 at 11:19 AM.
Sure, remove the fuel pump & just push it in. There may or not be a bolt in the front of the block to tighten down on the rod & keep it from slipping out. That bolt needs to be loose for normal operation (if present).
you can get the push rod at oreilly's (part# pr936) for $12 or the Zone (pt# fp936) for $15. they might have it on the shelf otherwise if you order it in the morning they will have it in by afternoon. They may also have it hanging in the HELP section and that part# is 03875 for about $5.
If you have already put the fuel pump plate on (the one held on by the two small bolts at the bottom) that goes between the block and the fuel pump, you will need to remove this to get the pushrod in.
with a motor installed and timing chain cover on can you install a fuel pump push rod
If you look at the bottom of the fuel pump mounting boss, there will be a pipe plug screwed in there. Take that plug out and slide the rod up into the block and replace the plug. Look at the front of the block, there is a short bolt screwed into the face, remove it. Use a long bolt to TEMPORARILY hold the rod in place after you push it up with your finger. Install the fuel pump, if you are feeling interference and the fuel pump bolts won't line up, turn the motor over by hand until you are on the base circle of the cam. Bolt the pump up. Remove the long bolt and replace it with the small bolt with sealer on the threads. If you don't seal it, it leaks oil.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
The big blocks use the pipe plug. The small blocks don't have it. On a small block, just remove the fuel pump adapter plate and the rod slides right in. If you put a little grease on the rod it will stay up without using the long bolt trick. Here's another little trick: Put the engine on top dead center compression stroke on #1 cylinder. This will fully retract the pushrod (allow it to go all the way "up") and it makes pump installation much easier.
Some roller cams do not have a mechanical fuel pump lobe. If you miss that and install the cam and mechanical pump the rod will never move and the pump will not pump and you won't understand why you're not getting any fuel past the pump.
The big blocks use the pipe plug. The small blocks don't have it. On a small block, just remove the fuel pump adapter plate and the rod slides right in. If you put a little grease on the rod it will stay up without using the long bolt trick. Here's another little trick: Put the engine on top dead center compression stroke on #1 cylinder. This will fully retract the pushrod (allow it to go all the way "up") and it makes pump installation much easier.
That's exactly how I did mine. This method works great.
Yes, there is a bolt hole with a short bolt in the front of the block on the front of the fuel pump location, which goes in pointing to the back of the fuel pump location toward the cam.. Remove that short bolt, and install a long bolt to hold the push rod up as you guide the pump in and over the cam. Then remove the long bolt and install the short one again.
He's talking about installing the rod itself. Apparently it is missing.
A different alloy is used for roller cams. Some need dist gears changed to be compatible. I've heard of fuel pump pushrods also having to be changed. I believe some have a roller tip, some have a different alloy at the tip. The thing is all about different hardness I believe. Most rollers cams now have the iron dist gear pressed on so its no longer an issue there but I don't know about the fuel pump lobe. My understanding is if this is not taken into consideration, the parts will begin to eat each other up. I have yet to use a roller cam. Sooo, I'm sure there are many here that can better confirm or deny what I've read and heard. I'll be going roller with my next build so I'll be researching all of that then.
Timely subject here guys!
Would anyone know what to use to remove that plug from a big block to install the fuel pump rod?
My GMPP ZZ454 has a plug with an internal square, a 3/8s drive is to big!
For the record I'll be using the ARP fuel pump rod.
The big blocks use the pipe plug. The small blocks don't have it. On a small block, just remove the fuel pump adapter plate and the rod slides right in. If you put a little grease on the rod it will stay up without using the long bolt trick. Here's another little trick: Put the engine on top dead center compression stroke on #1 cylinder. This will fully retract the pushrod (allow it to go all the way "up") and it makes pump installation much easier.
could this be used to determine #1 firing order if distributer is out of car.In anotherwords if balancer is on "0" and your on #6 compression stock would your fuel rod be at a different height?