C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old May 29, 2008 | 09:22 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by FlyViper
I've emailed him and will call him probably next week. That engine looks great, but I wasn't sure if that's too much for the stock rear end. 588 torque is a lot to me and I would just think I'd have to beef up a lot of stuff to take that. Am I right or wrong? If the stock stuff could handle this engine, I'd get it in a second. The other engine here on the forum looks great too. I have to sell my other car before I can buy one (wife directed), so until then I have time to keep researching. But as soon as that car sales, I'm pulling the trigger! Thoughts on either of these engines w/ a stock rear end and street tires?
A turbo 400 with street tires will probably live for a while. With a manual trans if you use the power you will lose the drivetrain. That much power will kill parts way faster. As I said before $6000 for a rear end and $4000 for a trans.
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Old May 29, 2008 | 09:40 PM
  #82  
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I'm already planning on getting a TKO-600, so the tranny will be ok. However, I don't want to spend $6K on a rear end, so I guess I'll keep looking. Do you think 450-500 is a safe range for the stock rear end? I don't mind upgrading certain parts: BlackRat recommended replacing all the U joints w/ Brute Force solid non-greasables, which in combo w/ street tires should keep the rear end safe. Makes sense, but even still I don't want to push it and have a $6K "fund necessity" on my hands after a few weeks or months of driving the car when I'm done w/ the engine/tranny install.
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Old May 29, 2008 | 09:56 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by FlyViper
I'm already planning on getting a TKO-600, so the tranny will be ok. However, I don't want to spend $6K on a rear end, so I guess I'll keep looking. Do you think 450-500 is a safe range for the stock rear end? I don't mind upgrading certain parts: BlackRat recommended replacing all the U joints w/ Brute Force solid non-greasables, which in combo w/ street tires should keep the rear end safe. Makes sense, but even still I don't want to push it and have a $6K "fund necessity" on my hands after a few weeks or months of driving the car when I'm done w/ the engine/tranny install.
Blackrat is correct. Solid u-joints and 450 to 500 Hp on street tires will live, hard to say how long if you beat it. A lot of guys run stock rearends with street tires and 500 plus Hp but don't count on it lasting with big power. GTR1999 can build you a stonger posi. Run Spicer solid or Brute Force U-joints. 3" halfshafts and street tires. If you want to powershift 550 plus HP you need a Tom's setup for..................$6000 plus. A lot depends on how you drive it. you can run 1000 hp through a stock rear end and never hurt it if you drive like grandpa. Nevermind, Im a grandpa.

Last edited by 63mako; May 29, 2008 at 10:03 PM.
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Old May 29, 2008 | 11:20 PM
  #84  
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I'd say my driving habits would be "normal" w/ occasional "stomping on the pedal." It's really impossible to quantify, but I'm not going to the strip and besides the occasional "let see what this can do" (obviously w/in reason ), the driving should be fairly normal...probably more like cruising. There's only one highway by my house anyways that I'd even have an opportunity to open it up, so a lot of driving will be more residential/town areas w/ "getting on it" here and there when I'm getting on the highway. Point is, I'll probably only drive the car a few days a week at most (weather permitting) and the majority will NOT be opening it up 100% and seeing what I can do. So, does that help at all in a ballpark assessment of how the car will hold up to a 450-500HP engine?

EDIT: Quick google yield this: Denny's Driveshaft

The first set (3in) or second set (3.5in/aluminum) come w/ 1350 spicers (non-greaseable). Would those (or similar) make a big difference on what the rear end could take? I don't mind spending $5-700 to beef up the rear end enough, but I'd really like to avoid beyond that if possible.

Last edited by FlyViper; May 29, 2008 at 11:32 PM.
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Old May 29, 2008 | 11:25 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by FlyViper
I'd say my driving habits would be "normal" w/ occasional "stomping on the pedal." It's really impossible to quantify, but I'm not going to the strip and besides the occasional "let see what this can do" (obviously w/in reason ), the driving should be fairly normal...probably more like cruising. There's only one highway by my house anyways that I'd even have an opportunity to open it up, so a lot of driving will be more residential/town areas w/ "getting on it" here and there when I'm getting on the highway. Point is, I'll probably only drive the car a few days a week at most (weather permitting) and the majority will NOT be opening it up 100% and seeing what I can do. So, does that help at all in a ballpark assessment of how the car will hold up to a 450-500HP engine?
Should be fine with solid spicers and street tires. No powershifting.
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Old May 29, 2008 | 11:36 PM
  #86  
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I will NEVER power shift. A friend showed me how in a previous car, and while it worked, it felt so wrong to me that I never did it again. Guess I wouldn't make anything of a true drag racer, but like I've said, that's not what I'm trying to do with this car. Thanks for all the help mako and everyone else, I greatly appreciate it! Beers on me if we ever meet.
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 09:21 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
Street tires make all the difference in the world.. If there's too much shock on street tires, they spin.. It's SHOCK (in combination with traction) that kills rear ends and not horsepower. Sure, you can install a 1000 HP engine on 215/70R15 tires and you won't break anything as the tires will spin before breaking anything. Traction is the #1 cause for rear end failure. Sure, with enough horsepower and street tires, you can run very fast without breaking stuff BUT you'll need a TON more horsepower to get the same ET's.. A 550 HP engine is a lot cheaper than a 700 HP engine etc... I ran mid 11's with only 465 HP (365 RWHP) because I ran slicks and got 60' times in the 1.5x range. That's why my rear ends didn't last too long.. I've seen as fast as 1.43 60' times with the stock differential with AUTOMATIC cars but I haven't seen a differential that held up for more than 50 runs with 60' times like that.
I wouldn't recommend it but I run a Tom's 4.33 rear with a steel cap. The car is a BB car with a th400 and a 4000 stall and a 10 inch slick. I run consistent 1.46/48 60fts, the car is 3000lbs even though which helps. I know it is on its last let and am reading everything I can on the forums to try to figure out my best option for an upgrade. Some of my splines are twisting as well...not good. Just wanted to let everyone know it is possible but not smart.
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