Could some one help me out here I am looking at building a 10-11 second quater mile 77 model c-3. I can go with a big block or small block just looking for some advice on a package to put it all together. What kind of horsepower and torque would I need etc.

Thanks

 

I have a 600 HP 406 SBC sitting in my garage.. It should get you into 10's with the proper setup. I ran 10.35 with that engine. However, it won't run on pump gas. You will need at least 600 HP with a small block and about 650 HP with a big block (due to the extra weight) to get into the 10's. If you want to stay with pump gas, you'll have to spend $$$ for such engine.. Budget at least $8k for such engine.. If you want to get into 10's, you'll also need to address suspension and rear end. In order for it to hold up at the drag strip, running 10's and 11's, it would be very wise to go with Tom's setup.
If you want to build a solid built setup that runs in the 10's, you need to upgrade just about everything. Just putting a high HP engine in the car won't be a permanent solutions. Stock rear ends are good to running about mid 11's.. If you go faster than that, I highly recommend an upgrade. In order to get good weight transfer, you'll also need softer front springs with adjustable 90/10 shocks and a stiff rear spring with QA1's. Making your car a solid 10 second car will cost you very likely over $20k.

Here's what you'll very likely have to spend:

$6000 rear end upgrade (either Tom's 12-bolt IRS or a solid axle. There's also a Dana60 IRS available here on the forum)
$8000 - $10000 for a engine that will get you into 10's
$3000 for a purpose built transmission that will hold up to running 10's
$1000 for a roll bar (needed if you run faster than 11.50)
$200 for front suspension upgrade
$500 for rear suspension upgrade (stiffer spring and QA1's)
$300 additional safety equipment (including helmet and harness)

Other recommended items include racing seat, weight savings, etc..

 

Your best bet would to buy a car already setup for this type of power it is so much cheaper that way

 

I'd suggest you pretty much listen to Olivier here, and if you're going to build the kind of power we're talking about I'd highly recommend the 12-bolt IRS, even if you never put slicks on it.

Only thing I can really add that might be worth anything is that IMHO it would be technically easier to build a reliable alum head, very large displacement BB capable of 10's on pump gas, but if that's what you have in mind I'd raise that budget to $10-12K, maybe more, if you want it done right.

 

Thanks to all who replied, There s a wealth of information on the forum you really gave me a lot of insight on whats needed thanks again.

 

Maybee I need a 12 second car after all, Any ideas on HP and stuff with it? I have a small block 427 dynoed at 535 would that get me close, I KNOW still need the rear end and tranny upgraded.

 

 

There's one for sale here in Austin. Full drag car though, complete new chassis, big slicks. Something like 660hp. I think he said the frame alone cost him $20-$30K. It was built some time in the 90s. It's complete and ready to go for something like 28K. If you're interested, let me know and I gan get more info. Since you're in Lufkin, it's only a 4.5hr drive... Not mine, belongs to a retired guy who loves cars, but can't get in and out of the cage anymore to race it. It has a beautiful paint job too. All the weight is stripped out of it. I think it's a '73. I'm guessing it's a 9-second car, I can't remember for sure what he said.

 

Some of you know me as a really 'stock kind of guy'. But see... I do read other threads!!! It sounds like it costs about the same (a lot) to go REALLY pretty or to go REALLY fast.
Regards,
Alan

 

535 HP will get you into mid 11's if everything else is setup right.. If you run automatic, the stock rear migh hold up for a while. With stick shift, it you won't get too many runs out of it.. I broke 3 rears with 465 HP and a 5-speed.. I do have a friend who ran 525 HP for 2 years with no rear end breakage but he ran a TH350..

 

every 100 lbs weight saving is worth .1 at the track.. That is as valuable as adding 10 - 20 HP to the engine power.

 

Email sent. Thanks.

 

Again, good advice from Olivier. He's progressed through various levels of fast in the 1/4 mile & he knows what he's talking about. I would add that if you want a car that can run 11's but don't plan to track it on a regular basis, your weak links won't be as critical. In years past I ran my 69 at the track many times, in part to see what it could run, & now it's only street driven. The drivetrain has lived without breakage for a good many years, although I do maintain it & watch it since I'm running sticky back tires. If 11's are good enough for you your existing 427 will get you the results you want. Good luck & enjoy.

 

Breakage also depends on gearing.. If you have a agressive rear and/or first gear on the transmission, you are more likely to break parts.. My TKO 5-speed had a 3.27 first gear and in combination with my 3.70 rear gears, that was a very violent setup on parts.. My current setup has a 1.80 first gear on the Powerglide and I run a 3.73 spool..

 

I don't ever remember Wayne Nelson (Mr. L88) saying anything about rear end breakage. His car had a 650 HP 511 CID Big Block that ran a best of 10.59.

BigBlockk

Later.....

 

I'm not Mr. L88, but can attest to having broken stock 10-bolt diffs without the use of slicks. Hence the 12-bolt IRS diff in my SA today. BTW, as you may know, there's a Dana 60 IRS on the market...

 

I recall that he ran street tires... Are you sure that his rear end was stock? Well, the stock rear MIGHT hold up a few passes at that performance level but not for too long, especially with stick shift unless you drive it like a old woman
Try dumping the clutch at 6000+ RPM with 650 HP and slicks with a stock rear and it'll go boom on the first try..

I'd bet $$$ that a stock rear won't hold up to such launch (see below)

http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p...rrent=Jim3.flv

 

..... in the early-'90s, I raced twice-a-week (sometimes 3-times-a-weekend) against a guy who had an chrome-bumper C3 that would've run 11s easily (in those days, Sportsman Class was 12.00-slower), with an oval-port 468" BBC, THM400, 4.11s and 29" slicks:
in 3+ seasons, I don't believe he had an IRS problems, and I'm fairly-sure he didn't have any high-dollar/aftermarket pieces in there.

 

With a auto, mid 11's are not a problem.. but faster than that will not give you too much rear end life.. I got about 30 - 40 passes out of stock differentials with my 5-speed and 465 HP (365 RWHP). That was with 3000 - 4000 RPM launches and power-shifting.

 

Add a 150 shot and you're there!