You would get more benefit from removing the 'weight' of the emissions stuff than you would for 'power improvement'. And, that benefit would still be minimal.

The more important issue is whether you need that stuff to remain on the car so you can pass you state's/county's emissions requirements.

And, if you have any intention of selling that car in the near future, removing that emission stuff would NOT be an asset to the sale. Better to just remove the drive belt from the AIR pump for now.

 

Emprical evidence ?

Disabuse ?



I may be getting too old to understand my C-3 !

Bill

 

I am taking all my emission stuff off because it isn't needed any more and it cleans up the engine compartment. It's just junk sitting there and if you cangain some extra power that is a plus.

 

What year and engine is in your car ?

Bill

 

Actually, the A.I.R. pump (aka "smog pump") takes just under 1 hp to turn, and that's when the air diverter valve is making it work "hard." Under other conditions (like at wide open throttle), it's absorbing no more power than a free-wheeling pulley. Likewise, the EGR is only "bleeding" exhaust into the engine under light throttle cruise, and has no effect on wide open throttle power (since there is no engine vacuum to open it).

Also, keep in mind that it does not matter what State you live in: The emissions requirements for vehicles are driven by Federal laws, and it's a Federal offense to remove or tamper with the emissions equipment, whether you have an emissions test requirement in your State or not.

It's not the bolt-on emissions equipment that is the cause of any power loss: It's the overall tuning and design of the engine to make the emissions equipment work that is the power robber. This includes low compression, restrictive single exhaust, mild cam, and small valves. You can remove and plug every piece of emissions equipment on that car, and I doubt you'll see a power gain of any more than 5 hp at wide open throttle, if that. You're much better off setting up your total timing correctly and doing a good tune up on your carb - you can gain 20-30 hp just from doing a good super-tune like this, and you won't screw up your original car in the process.

Lars

 

Thanks Lars I was hoping to receive a complete answer.I am going to keep it stock, except for the points. I bought a kit from Eckler's to convert the distributor.it is a one Wier conversation to electronic ignition so when the distributer cap goes back on it looks stock.heir's the (new) question with the change to Elect. ign. should I get a new hotter coil,and increase the gap on the plugs to increase the size of the spark. thats just my weird thinking????? I have a friend with a timing light He says if I do all the work he will set the timing. thanks for your input sure app. your help Rich outttt.

 

People here will disagree with me, but if I were you, I'd throw that e-conversion kit in the trash and get a good set of points and simply do a good re-curve on your distributor - you will gain absolutely nothing from that e-conversion on your stock '74, other than not needing to check the dwell every 20,000 miles... Get Echlin points part number CS786 with an RR175 condenser and use the 2 gold springs out of Mr. Gasket kit 928G.

Again, no gain there. Whatever system you run, use a .035 - .040 plug gap. Wider gaps will gain you little more than a greater potential for arcing and misfire, although your low-compression '74 can use a wider gap if you modify the coil for higher secondary voltage. Again, I really question any benefit of doing so on your stock engine.

That sounds absolutely frightening. Does he know anything about setting total timing..?

Lars

 

You have two issues to consider and resolve:

1) Your '74 car has a ballast resistor built into the wiring harness in the form of resistance wire. That wire feeds the coil and it limits the amount of current that the coil can draw. Whether you continue to use that wire as the power source for your coil and/or your electronic module [or not] depends on what the module you are buying needs. So, read the instructions carefully to determine whether you are to use the 'existing' wiring..which already has a built-in ballast resistance..; or if you need to find a direct 12 vdc power line without that resistance in it. The design of that module will dictate the type of power source you need.

2) Most electronic ignitions will be capable of producing higher output voltages...especially at low rpm's and at high rpm's. This is an improvement over the points systems. But, to actually obtain this higher voltage [potential], you will need the appropriate ignition coil to be paired with the module. Again, the module design will dictate how "hot" of a coil can be supported by it; and the instructions should tell you what coil to purchase for obtaining the most out of that module. Also, the spark plug gap can be widened (within reason) to provide a longer spark with that increased voltage capability. A standard points car would normally require a .030-.035" gap; electronic ignitions & hotter coils can support .045" or higher gaps. The documentation on the module should guide you in these changes.

 

You'll find Charley and I generally agree on this stuff - we've done a lot of the same work and have both seen pretty much the same results.
Lars