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spindle castle nut removal

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Old May 6, 2008 | 12:21 PM
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Default spindle castle nut removal

How do you get the castle nut off the spindle assembly!? I have the TA off the car and I can't get to budge
Also, whats the size of those bolts holding the spindle assembly on the TA, my 1/2 inch socket doesn't seem to fit, and the 9/16 is too big
thanks
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Old May 6, 2008 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by killervette666
How do you get the castle nut off the spindle assembly!? I have the TA off the car and I can't get to budge
Also, whats the size of those bolts holding the spindle assembly on the TA, my 1/2 inch socket doesn't seem to fit, and the 9/16 is too big
thanks
Did you remove the cotter pins from the spindle? If you are dealing with a rusty, grease-covered mess it might be hard to see a broken cotter pin. I don't remember offhand what size the nuts are for the spindle assembly but one of those 2 should fit. The nuts might have rusted enough that they are no longer a recognizable size. You can use one of those extractors that grip the outside of the nut to get them loose if necessary. Spray everything with PB Blaster for a few days to help loosen things up. Good luck.



Rick B.
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Old May 6, 2008 | 12:41 PM
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I got the cotter pin ouit, the bolt just doesn't want to turn, te fact that the trailing arm is off the car doesn't help any either.
I sprayed it down with pb blaster just now, hopefully itll help
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Old May 6, 2008 | 12:50 PM
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The spindle threads may be rolled and beat up from the last guy working on the car. I take apart a lot of arms and use a 1/2 breaker bar or an impact gun on the nuts. The last one was so bad I had to cut the nut in 1/2 , the spindle was wrecked already. If the nut doesn't back off be careful or expect the job to cost more.
9/16 hex heads should be on the studs holding the support on the arm. Expect the support to be seized on the arm as well.
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Old May 6, 2008 | 01:13 PM
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Thanks Gary, I'm thinking I'm just going to have my shop where I get stuff done for my camry take an impact gun to it tomorrow, it doesn't seem to want to budge.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 12:30 AM
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The guy who rebuilt my arms said he used a 5 FOOT breaker bar to get them to budge!

Temvette72
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Old May 7, 2008 | 03:33 AM
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The guy who rebuilt my arms said he used a 5 FOOT breaker bar to get them to budge!

I used a 6 foot pipe on my breaker bar to break it loose
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Old May 7, 2008 | 05:43 AM
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Geez...you guys must have big tool boxes.... Heating it up pretty good with a torch might work. So will taking it to your shop, saves the knuckles and less stress. You might be able to remove the studs with a punch through the spindle after you get the nut off.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 09:21 AM
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If the threads are 'damaged' from forceful installation, you may not want to use an impact gun. It could just cause additional tearing and distress to the threads. Best to try getting it off with steady torque application, then chase the threads with a tap to clean them up.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 09:28 AM
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Take a 2X10 and mark the hole pattern of the lug nut studs on it and drill all the holes in the wood. Clamp this down to hold the spindle solid and it may help. This worked for me.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 11:56 AM
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Chain wrench!
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Old May 7, 2008 | 12:03 PM
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Default Use the tire

I just remounted the spindle on the tire, then had some help holding the tire in place as I removed (and installed) the nut.

Andy
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Old May 7, 2008 | 12:11 PM
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Good thinkin'!! Glad it worked.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 12:11 PM
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Clamp an old rotor to your work bench using two c-clamps. Place the studs through the hub and it will prevent the spindle from turning. You can also retighten the spindle nut using this method.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by stinger12
Clamp an old rotor to your work bench using two c-clamps. Place the studs through the hub and it will prevent the spindle from turning. You can also retighten the spindle nut using this method.
I did mine in a similar fashion.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 07:05 PM
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Default Flat Washer under Nut

And if I remember right I'd suggest replacing the flat washer under the nut. It's slightly "bowed" and allows for the extra "turns" it normally takes to turn the nut passed the minimum torque setting on to a point where you can put in the cotter pin. Mine was especially bad and reached the torque just after it passed the cotter pin opening, then an additional "superman" effort to get the nut on over to the next hole.

Just an FYI.

Andy
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Old May 7, 2008 | 08:34 PM
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I took it down to my mechanics, known them for a while, 2 minutes with an impact gun and they had the spindles out
Now I just have to get out that thing that is held unto the trailing arm with studs, do I just smack the living hell out of it?
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Old May 8, 2008 | 12:26 AM
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Default Use Some Care

Once the four bolts/nuts are off the spindle support gentle tap/press it out of the arm. Be careful and don't distort the arm, it's heavy steel, but the spindle can be rusted onto the T-arm. It's a bit of a press fit, and with a little rust it can take some "doing".

Andy
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Old May 8, 2008 | 06:39 PM
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just pulled my castle nuts off a moment ago. slight problem with them though. i didnt need a 6 foot breaker bar, i just needed a socket and my fingers. im glad those cotter pins didnt give out... hate to think what would have happened if the spindle came out when i was driving.
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Old May 8, 2008 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by another-user
just pulled my castle nuts off a moment ago. slight problem with them though. i didnt need a 6 foot breaker bar, i just needed a socket and my fingers. im glad those cotter pins didnt give out... hate to think what would have happened if the spindle came out when i was driving.
That's just one of the reasons why it is not recommended to slip fit inner bearings.
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