When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was in the process of removing my trailing arms when the rusted shims came crumbling to the ground. As a result, I don't know which size shims came out. I ordered new stainless steel shims as the replacement part however, I don't know what size shim goes to either side of the trailing arm bushing. Is there a ninimum/maximum thickness per side. What is the proper way to install shims? Please help. Thanks
At this point you've lost your settings, so the best thing would be to go back to a (theoretical) neutral setting then have the car re-aligned after it's been reassembled. to do this, measure the thickness of the trailing arm across the bushing, then measure the width of the frame pocket where the trailing arm is going to fit. divide the difference by two, and that will be the amount of shim to place on either side of the trailing arm. make sure whoever does the alignment is a) competent and b) FULLY aware of what it takes to properly set the toe on a C3 Corvette rearend- you'll probably be amazed at how many so-called "high-end" alignment shops will get completely lost trying to do this. Good Luck!
I just did this Job. I had to CUT the trailing arm bolts out. I was able to save my old shims and there was just about EQUAL shims on both sides of each trailing arm.
Start with the thickest shim that you have and insert them on each side of the trailing arm, Then insert the next size that will fit easily. The thin ones get inserted between the thick ones. Insert shims until the stack is tight. You can sight down the side of the car and see if the toe is really far out. I tapped a thin metal rod to each tire and you can see how much toe is in each tire. Its a good rough in so that your close.
Take ALL of your shims to the alignment shop and they will figure out where the arms need to be and build one stack (on the inside OR outside of the arms) that is toe correct and then fill up the other side to tighten the arm against the other stack.
I held the trailing arm tight against the correct stack with a pry-bar while the alignment guy inserted the correct shim stack in the inboard side. It worked out excellent.
I wouldnt leave the long cotter key out. I did and only drove 10 miles to the alignment shop and by the time I got there the shims were moved from the installed position. They could have fallen out if I would have driven a significant mileage. Just slide the long cotter key through and spread the ends slightly so its easy to remove at the shop.
I was able to save the shims when they were removed and matched them up with some new stainless ones. I bought some rebuilt trailing arms and the shims wouldn't fit the way they came out anyway. I put as many as I could and took it to the shop for alignment and they changed them around anyway.
I was able to save the shims when they were removed and matched them up with some new stainless ones. I bought some rebuilt trailing arms and the shims wouldn't fit the way they came out anyway. I put as many as I could and took it to the shop for alignment and they changed them around anyway.
The most probable reason the old shims didnt fit was the preload on the trailing arm bushing was probably different. In your case, less than the old one.