Water pump install

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Sep 14, 2008 | 10:44 PM

72TTop

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Water pump install

I searched all the threads and found lots of good info to help me with the replacement (sometime next weekend).

I'm doing a Stewart Stage 1 (cast iron) from Ecklers, so I have my fingers crossed on exact fit.... and I'm adding a high flow thermostat after reading all the threads.

3 Questions:

What's the torgue spec on the water pump bolts?

What do you coat the threads of the bolts with? Do you use a gasket sealant on the bolts or a thread lock...or something different?

What sealant do you use on the nipples and plugs when moving things from one pump to the other?

Thanks

Sep 14, 2008 | 11:50 PM

a1sensei

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From: Orange Park Fl

Quote:

Originally Posted by 72TTop

What's the torgue spec on the water pump bolts?

You need a service manual!

Quote:

Originally Posted by 72TTop

What do you coat the threads of the bolts with? Do you use a gasket sealant on the bolts or a thread lock...or something different?

Any bolt that goes into a water passage needs RTV. Otherwise, I always just use some anti-seize

Quote:

Originally Posted by 72TTop

What sealant do you use on the nipples and plugs when moving things from one pump to the other?

Teflon tape.

God bless, Sensei

Sep 15, 2008 | 07:50 AM

72TTop

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thanks!... one of my buddies gave me his Chilton manual when he sold his C3. It tells you to take off the fan, remove the water pump, remove the old gasket and sealant....and reverse the process to install the new one. What a joke. Does someone else make a better manual? The only thing you didn't answer for me was torque spec. Is there a torque spec sheet anywhere on the forum?

Sep 15, 2008 | 08:57 AM

GD70

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Joined: Jan 2007

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From: Peekskill NY

Quote:

Originally Posted by 72TTop

I just did this 3 weeks ago. You don't need to remove the fan to remove the water pump. Just take care to make sure the blade dosn't hit the radiator. The fan clutch bolts are at an awkward angle and are pretty tight. It's much easier to remove the fan & clutch after the pump is out. The fan clutch bolts were a PITA to remove, mine were VERY tight. Once it's off take the opportunity to scrub the fan, pulley and shroud (mine is metal), with a scotch guard pad and simple green and re-spray the parts. Really makes a difference when it's all back together. I also reinstalled the new pump with the fan bolted to the new pump.
Glenn

Last edited by GD70; Sep 15, 2008 at 12:55 PM.

Sep 15, 2008 | 03:28 PM

Vette79C3

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From: Millersville, MD

Depending on what year Vette you have, I found it easier to remove the fan and fan clutch assembly first so that you have room to remove the water pump. Fan Shrouds are different. This would be a great time to address replacing the belts, pulley's, fan and fan clutch assembly if needed. You can use RTV or thread sealer on the bolts. If your going to drain coolant from the block, it would also be a good time to install petcocks on both sides of the block for an easier drain next time.

Sep 15, 2008 | 03:45 PM

7T1vette

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From: Crossville TN

I would recommend Permatex thread sealant (rather than RTV). {I just don't like silicone stuff on threads.} I think it's easier to remove the fan and pulley before removing the water pump; that way there's less risk of damaging the radiator fins, knuckles, etc. Use a smear of Permatex gasket sealant on the water pump and thermostat gaskets (both sides). It's a bit messy, but it won't leak. Don't put anti-seize and sealant on any one thread.

Sep 15, 2008 | 03:52 PM

72TTop

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Thanks,
72 Smalll block. The shroud is fiberglass.
Still no one has commented on torque spec?

And I ordered a high flow thermostat for the Hi Flow water pump...anything i need to know to replace the stat?

Sep 15, 2008 | 04:05 PM

Alan 71

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From: Westminster Maryland

Hi 72,
The GM CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL, which is the manual for you to have on hand, indicates 30 lb. torque for the water pump bolts.
Regards,
Alan

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Sep 15, 2008 | 04:14 PM

72TTop

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Thanks Alan...I'm going to buy the manual!!

Sep 15, 2008 | 04:17 PM

#10

7T1vette

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From: Crossville TN

3/8"-16 bolts to 30 ft-lbs [right again, Alan]. My GM Service Manual doesn't really show a spec for the fan pulley, but I think it should be 12-15 ft-lbs.

Sep 15, 2008 | 10:45 PM

#11

72TTop

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do you use any loctite on the fan bolts??

Sep 16, 2008 | 10:40 AM

#12

Vette79C3

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From: Millersville, MD

Quote:

Originally Posted by 72TTop

do you use any loctite on the fan bolts??

I did but I don't think you have to.

Sep 16, 2008 | 03:20 PM

#13

72TTop

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Thanks...I like a bit of loctite.... of course having an old Harley, I "expect" every bolt to work it's way loose

Sep 16, 2008 | 09:20 PM

#14

7T1vette

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From: Crossville TN

I think there are split lock washers under the bolts...but it doesn't hurt anything to add a little extra "insurance".

Sep 17, 2009 | 01:05 PM

#15

G-Sting

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From: LaUgH, mOrE!

My water pump just went out. How do you know if your fan clutch is ready for replacement, too?

Sep 19, 2009 | 10:28 AM

#16

72TTop

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I don't know all the criteria... but age is one? Mine did not turn freely. Go feel a new one at an auto parts store and compare to yours. if yours is pretty old and as big of a pain in the *** it is to change the pump in those cramped quarters, I'd put on a new one! double check the lenth of the pin on the pump as it goes into clutch. mine didn't match. the pin on the pump was .10" longer than the hole so it did not mate 100% flat.

Sep 20, 2009 | 03:32 AM

#17

RunningMan373

Melting Slicks

Joined: May 2007

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From: Bay Area CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by 72TTop

I searched all the threads and found lots of good info to help me with the replacement (sometime next weekend).

I'm doing a Stewart Stage 1 (cast iron) from Ecklers, so I have my fingers crossed on exact fit.... and I'm adding a high flow thermostat after reading all the threads.

3 Questions:

What's the torque spec on the water pump bolts?

30 ft/lbs. it's big iron block. Could probably take 60- (not recommended).

What do you coat the threads of the bolts with? Do you use a gasket sealant on the bolts or a thread lock...or something different?

Thread sealer. a use ARP. permatex should work fine

What sealant do you use on the nipples and plugs when moving things from one pump to the other?

thread sealer or teflon tape.

Thanks

Chiltons any thing is cra-dap. really useless. a GM service if you want to spring for it. Try a Haynes, for a aftermarket, there really pretty good, but i found the C3 one a bit under their standards, still pretty useful for torque specs and such.

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