First Start goes wrong with a FIRE (Video)
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Johnson City Tennessee
I think you have answered your own question.
If the problem is with the wire from the battery to the starter then thats why the link did not kick in.
Btw... did you ground one of the wires from the starter harness{the one with the fusible links in} to the bell housing or engine block?
If the problem is with the wire from the battery to the starter then thats why the link did not kick in.
Btw... did you ground one of the wires from the starter harness{the one with the fusible links in} to the bell housing or engine block?
There is a small wire in that bundle connected to the bell housing. I was pretty careful to number every wire & hose with some masking tape when I pulled the old motor. Problem with that tho is that any mistake the previous owner/s made I've duplicated. For the most part the numbering everything has worked really well for 99% of the motor swap. Naturally that last 1% is the stuff my Haynes book becomes useless with because repeatedly it just says "installation is opposite of removal" Thats all well & good IF you know how it was originally installed correctly.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Canastota Ny
a fuseable link is a plastic (link) inline with a power wire. if there is a larger voltage on the line then the wire can handle the fuseable link melts or breaks the contact. inwhich you will need to replace the link unlike a fuse. seems the volatage was much more then anything could handle and went right through all of it.
exact definition -- A fusible link is a device consisting of two strips of metal soldered together with a fusible alloy that is designed to melt at a specific temperature, thus allowing the two pieces to separate.
exact definition -- A fusible link is a device consisting of two strips of metal soldered together with a fusible alloy that is designed to melt at a specific temperature, thus allowing the two pieces to separate.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: North Alabama
Last edited by Jclgodale3; Sep 22, 2008 at 07:08 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Johnson City Tennessee
a fuseable link is a plastic (link) inline with a power wire. if there is a larger voltage on the line then the wire can handle the fuseable link melts or breaks the contact. inwhich you will need to replace the link unlike a fuse. seems the volatage was much more then anything could handle and went right through all of it.
exact definition -- A fusible link is a device consisting of two strips of metal soldered together with a fusible alloy that is designed to melt at a specific temperature, thus allowing the two pieces to separate.
exact definition -- A fusible link is a device consisting of two strips of metal soldered together with a fusible alloy that is designed to melt at a specific temperature, thus allowing the two pieces to separate.
I'll look again now that I know what I'm lookin for.
What that in mind, I get why the fusible link didn't do its thing. The remaining strands of the wire were smaller than the fusible link & so it got hot instead & was going to be the point where it would melt through & because it had a rubber cover over it, it caught fire.
OK, seems like I did have the right idea on how to fix it then by just cutting the end off & putting the connector back on.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Tuttle OK
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Instructor
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Suffern NY
Once you've fixed the electrical problem, I'd suggest you don't just pour gas down the carb. Try filling the float bowls manually thru the vent tube. This will allow the carb to function properly until the pump is primed and refills the bowl. Your buddy looked like he poured gas right down the venturi's which will just pool in the intake and will guarantee a nice fire if there happens to be a backfire thru the intake.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: cincinnati ohio
St. Jude Donor '09
Safety Car
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From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
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ask any question, before you take action,
this place was more knowledge than a college.
prime the bowls like suggested thru the vent tubes,
then look down the carb, manually pump the accelrator until you see gas squirt out.
Now your ready to lite it up, after you double check wiring.
this place was more knowledge than a college.
prime the bowls like suggested thru the vent tubes,
then look down the carb, manually pump the accelrator until you see gas squirt out.
Now your ready to lite it up, after you double check wiring.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
All a fuse link is is an undersized piece of wire on the end of a circuit. Typically its 2 sizes under what the tated load of the circuit is. Say you have a circuit wired with 12 gauge wire, the fuse link should be 14.
A fuse is used to protect against an overload, like putting to mush stuff on a single circuit.
A fuse link is there to protect the wire harness (and thus the rest of the car) in case of a dead short. The plastic piece on a fuse link is just a splice cover, the link is the wire itself.
Pouring gas in the carb might work, but there is a much better, safer way. I use a large syrenge, a turkey baster will work. Fill the float bowl thru the Air Horn vent on top of the carb.
Before attempting to start the car, static time the car. Park #1 at 10* or so before TDC and then set the dist right on the #1 terminal. Fill the carb bowl (2 or 3 ounces is all) and hit the key, it Will start.
Like this, mine after a year of work, fresh start and fresh top end;
Pay no attention to the fat guy
A fuse is used to protect against an overload, like putting to mush stuff on a single circuit.
A fuse link is there to protect the wire harness (and thus the rest of the car) in case of a dead short. The plastic piece on a fuse link is just a splice cover, the link is the wire itself.
Pouring gas in the carb might work, but there is a much better, safer way. I use a large syrenge, a turkey baster will work. Fill the float bowl thru the Air Horn vent on top of the carb.
Before attempting to start the car, static time the car. Park #1 at 10* or so before TDC and then set the dist right on the #1 terminal. Fill the carb bowl (2 or 3 ounces is all) and hit the key, it Will start.
Like this, mine after a year of work, fresh start and fresh top end;
Pay no attention to the fat guy
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: texas
at least you found a problem that needs to be fixed without adding large amounts of gasoline to the situation. double check all the ignition electrical connections. distributor, coil wires, etc... if theres a unhooked coil wire something will fry because all the electricity has to go somewhere (or thats what some people told me when i fried a wire one time). the weakest link fries. pull a plug and lay it on the exhaust manifold to see if you get spark. good luck.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 5
From: South of London, Engerland
You know what? When I first watched the vid I, I said..."you gotta be sh@tten' me" But then I understood. Dude. Don't sweat it. There is absolutely no one here that hasn't been in the same boat as you and had the same type issue. You can't and won't catch everything the first time. I commend you for being prepared!
It's easy to laugh but I just learnt something by watching your video so I'll be better prepared when I come to restart my car after the body-off. I've got two extinguishers in the garage but I think I'll have a buddy on hand as well.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 614
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From: Johnson City Tennessee
Pouring gas in the carb might work, but there is a much better, safer way. I use a large syrenge, a turkey baster will work. Fill the float bowl thru the Air Horn vent on top of the carb.
Before attempting to start the car, static time the car. Park #1 at 10* or so before TDC and then set the dist right on the #1 terminal. Fill the carb bowl (2 or 3 ounces is all) and hit the key, it Will start.
Like this, mine after a year of work, fresh start and fresh top end;
Pay no attention to the fat guy
Before attempting to start the car, static time the car. Park #1 at 10* or so before TDC and then set the dist right on the #1 terminal. Fill the carb bowl (2 or 3 ounces is all) and hit the key, it Will start.
Like this, mine after a year of work, fresh start and fresh top end;
Pay no attention to the fat guy
I know just enough to know it was not going to go that smoothly before I tryed it.
Turkey baster sounds MUCH safer. I'll do that for sure. The air horn vent, thats the hole on the top front of the carb that sticks up like a short pipe?
Static time the car. Another new term. I'll Wikipedia that. What I did was put marks on the distributor when I pulled it from the old motor so that when I switched it over it would be in the general area of where it needed to be so that I could adjust it with the timing advance light I just got.
I know that statement is about to upset some mechanics in here. Thats OK, I can take it, I figure how else am I going to learn except by doing. I'll be the first to admit I'm no mechanic & that this project is very ambitious for me.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 614
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From: Johnson City Tennessee
Wikipedia doesn't have anything on static timing (surprising) but I found this how to do Static Timing on an MG on YouTube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpp67aqwM2Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpp67aqwM2Y
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 614
Likes: 0
From: Johnson City Tennessee
at least you found a problem that needs to be fixed without adding large amounts of gasoline to the situation. double check all the ignition electrical connections. distributor, coil wires, etc... if theres a unhooked coil wire something will fry because all the electricity has to go somewhere (or thats what some people told me when i fried a wire one time). the weakest link fries. pull a plug and lay it on the exhaust manifold to see if you get spark. good luck.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 153
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From: London
Now thats how its supposed to be done.
I know just enough to know it was not going to go that smoothly before I tryed it.
Turkey baster sounds MUCH safer. I'll do that for sure. The air horn vent, thats the hole on the top front of the carb that sticks up like a short pipe?
Static time the car. Another new term. I'll Wikipedia that. What I did was put marks on the distributor when I pulled it from the old motor so that when I switched it over it would be in the general area of where it needed to be so that I could adjust it with the timing advance light I just got.
I know that statement is about to upset some mechanics in here. Thats OK, I can take it, I figure how else am I going to learn except by doing. I'll be the first to admit I'm no mechanic & that this project is very ambitious for me.
I know just enough to know it was not going to go that smoothly before I tryed it.
Turkey baster sounds MUCH safer. I'll do that for sure. The air horn vent, thats the hole on the top front of the carb that sticks up like a short pipe?
Static time the car. Another new term. I'll Wikipedia that. What I did was put marks on the distributor when I pulled it from the old motor so that when I switched it over it would be in the general area of where it needed to be so that I could adjust it with the timing advance light I just got.
I know that statement is about to upset some mechanics in here. Thats OK, I can take it, I figure how else am I going to learn except by doing. I'll be the first to admit I'm no mechanic & that this project is very ambitious for me.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ghlight=timing
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,030
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From: Lubbock Texas
DC
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Thats exactly correct