HEI Distributor Orientation Question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 14
From: Norfolk VA
HEI Distributor Orientation Question
I have removed my HEI distributor in order because the vacuum can is contacting the intake runner and i cannot advance my timing any further.
I understand that the correct orientation of the distributor is that the #1 tower is at the driver's side with the coil being square to the engine. My question is will I have to move my #1 cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke, align the timing marks to 0, then reinstall dizzy or can I just reinstall the dizzy and line up the oil pump shaft with the dizzy so it is in the correct orientation? I hope I can do the latter b/c it is a pain to remove the fan so I can put a breaker bar on the crank bolt to turn the motor to #1 TDC. Thanx in advance.
I understand that the correct orientation of the distributor is that the #1 tower is at the driver's side with the coil being square to the engine. My question is will I have to move my #1 cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke, align the timing marks to 0, then reinstall dizzy or can I just reinstall the dizzy and line up the oil pump shaft with the dizzy so it is in the correct orientation? I hope I can do the latter b/c it is a pain to remove the fan so I can put a breaker bar on the crank bolt to turn the motor to #1 TDC. Thanx in advance.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: London
Why the need to remove the fan?
Put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and do it from the passenger side of the car.
Either get a helper to look out for the timing mark on the balancer standing drivers side or do a little at a time and walk round and check yourself.
Put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and do it from the passenger side of the car.
Either get a helper to look out for the timing mark on the balancer standing drivers side or do a little at a time and walk round and check yourself.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 14
From: Norfolk VA
not enough space between fan blades and 3 groove crank pulley (must use a deep well socket). I like my the breaker bar square with the front of the engine because if it is not it is more difficult to turn the crank and you risk breaking off the crank bolt head. (done that once)
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 14
From: Norfolk VA
Just changing wires around is a bubba fix.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: London
not enough space between fan blades and 3 groove crank pulley (must use a deep well socket). I like my the breaker bar square with the front of the engine because if it is not it is more difficult to turn the crank and you risk breaking off the crank bolt head. (done that once)
I did exactly as i posted above today on my brothers 79,and thankfully did not run into any problems.
BTW his car also has the 3 groove pulley.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
oldguard
i take exception to your idea that changing the wires won't solve this problem. by changing the wire position, you will be able to rotate the dist into proper alignment. the dist doesn't care which post the #1 wire is attached to. remove the wires, align the dist, and reset the wires. there is no reason that tdc, turning the crank or anything else needs to be done.
i take exception to your idea that changing the wires won't solve this problem. by changing the wire position, you will be able to rotate the dist into proper alignment. the dist doesn't care which post the #1 wire is attached to. remove the wires, align the dist, and reset the wires. there is no reason that tdc, turning the crank or anything else needs to be done.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Actually, GM had a service bulletin on re-clocking the distributor [one wire position] on Corvettes because of the space limitation around the distributor. Just shift the wires one position and 'flag' the distributor cap where the #1 wire resides. The other alternative is to remove the distributor (noting the position of the rotor so that you can replace it in the same orientation), drive the roll-pin out of the dist. drive gear, rotate the gear 180 degrees and reassemble the gear & drive pin in that position. The drive gear has an odd number of teeth and rotating it will give you a 1/2 tooth shift in rotor position (about 15 degrees rotation). Then reposition the pump drive shaft and reinstall the distributor with the rotor oriented as it was when you removed it. It's a lot easier to just move the wires.
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Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Taylor Michigan
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Russell Ontario
St. Jude Donor '09
I just use a 15/16 wrench and turn it by the alternator pulley, been doing this for years and it works fine, you can see the timing marks good too! If the belt slips just squeeze the belt around the pulley and watch you don't catch your fingers!!!! Ron
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
You guys work way too hard. Just bump the start till you get within 15-20 degrees while watching the valves cycle on #1.
Never turn on the crank bolt unless all the plugs are out
I actually set the damper to 15-20 degrees advance so the rotor will line up with the #1 wire cap prong from the very start. Or if you want 12 initial advance set it to 10-15 degrees on the damper.
Never turn on the crank bolt unless all the plugs are out
I actually set the damper to 15-20 degrees advance so the rotor will line up with the #1 wire cap prong from the very start. Or if you want 12 initial advance set it to 10-15 degrees on the damper.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,384
Likes: 6,408
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Sandy -
If your distributor vacuum can is hitting the back of the manifold and not allowing you enough advance, you just need to move the rotor over 1 tooth. You don't have to find TDC, turn the crank, or anything else - all you have to do is pop the cap off, pull the hold-down clamp off, and pull the distributor up until the gear disengages the cam. Then, rotate the rotor just a hair clockwise, and jam the distributor back down into the block - the oil pump shaft will engage with a little wiggling. This will move the rotor one gear tooth over, and you can now rotate the entire distributor body slightly clockwise for more timing adjustment. Check the timing with a light and see if the distributor is now "square" in the engine compartment. Repeat the operation if needed to get it square. The entire operation will take you less than 4 minutes.
Lars
If your distributor vacuum can is hitting the back of the manifold and not allowing you enough advance, you just need to move the rotor over 1 tooth. You don't have to find TDC, turn the crank, or anything else - all you have to do is pop the cap off, pull the hold-down clamp off, and pull the distributor up until the gear disengages the cam. Then, rotate the rotor just a hair clockwise, and jam the distributor back down into the block - the oil pump shaft will engage with a little wiggling. This will move the rotor one gear tooth over, and you can now rotate the entire distributor body slightly clockwise for more timing adjustment. Check the timing with a light and see if the distributor is now "square" in the engine compartment. Repeat the operation if needed to get it square. The entire operation will take you less than 4 minutes.
Lars
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 14
From: Norfolk VA
I have it installed in the correct orientation. However, I cannot put the hold down bolt to keep it loose enough when I set the timing because when attempting to put the bolt in the hole on the manifold, it fell down somewhere and is wedged between the transmission bellhousing and the body of the car. I have another bolt and will tighten the dizzy just enough to set timing and then tighten it down. I'm at work now and will do it first light tomorrow morning.
Lars, I did thought you didn't have to do what I mentioned before but wasn't sure and I have never done it that way fearing that if I jam the dizzy down into the block I would break something. I saw you do this in person but I have never done it and it is difficult for me to do but I will practice.
jnb 5101, Sorry you take exception to the idea of just changing wires wont solve the problem. I am aware that the dizzy does not care where the #1 wire is attached to. We all have different ways we do things. Seeing a cocked dizzy is an indication that the person (in this case me), did not install it properly and it is a pet peeve of mine, but that is for me to deal with. No offense meant.
gkull, point taken.
Lars, I did thought you didn't have to do what I mentioned before but wasn't sure and I have never done it that way fearing that if I jam the dizzy down into the block I would break something. I saw you do this in person but I have never done it and it is difficult for me to do but I will practice.
jnb 5101, Sorry you take exception to the idea of just changing wires wont solve the problem. I am aware that the dizzy does not care where the #1 wire is attached to. We all have different ways we do things. Seeing a cocked dizzy is an indication that the person (in this case me), did not install it properly and it is a pet peeve of mine, but that is for me to deal with. No offense meant.
gkull, point taken.
Last edited by Oldguard 7; Oct 2, 2008 at 04:13 PM.
