Engine Run Stand
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 361
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From: Valley AL
Engine Run Stand
Well, here is the start of the engine run stand. Got the frame cut down and welded back together ( it was a cart than moved rolls of cloth around a textile mill). I have the motor mount plates cut, but have not put them on the 'stalks' yet. Right now, I plan on hanging a radiator up front with the fuel tank below it. It will also have a full set of gauges and throttle control above the rad. The battery is going to ride between the frame rails under the harmonic balance. I am trying to keep this thing as compact as possible( note the zero clearance on the header collectors...got lucky there). Anyway, now is the time for suggestions and comments. Thanks, tobyte1
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
One thing about engine test stands. They are good for checking for leaks etc. but I would not let it run too long on the stand. THe rings need to be seated and that has to be done with the motor under load which means in the car or on a dyno. One reason I never built one. With the roller cams nowadays I just fire it up let it get warm, check for leaks and let it rip, I had my new motor up to 5500RPM's with 2 miles on it while seating the rings 
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Didn't mean to sound so negative, an engine stand has it's purpose, I am just trying to help you avoid any problems with a new engine down the road. Try Lars he has a nice little engine test stand
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Also, your run stand may be over-kill - you don't need a motor mount plate or any forward supports on the engine - you can simply hang it off a bellhousing so you have unlimited access to the bottom and sides of the engine. Here is a photo of my run stand - I've run BB Chevys and 455 Pontiacs on it by simply swapping bellhousings - there are no engine mount supports or forward supports on it - the engine hangs just fine from a hard-mounted bellhousing:
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
That's correct - Run the engine on the run stand long enough to verify timing, valve adjustment and to correct any leaks, but get the engine in the chassis and hammer it with a load as soon as possible to seat the rings - running it too long with no load can "glaze" the cylinder walls and cause the rings to never seat.
Also, your run stand may be over-kill - you don't need a motor mount plate or any forward supports on the engine - you can simply hang it off a bellhousing so you have unlimited access to the bottom and sides of the engine. Here is a photo of my run stand - I've run BB Chevys and 455 Pontiacs on it by simply swapping bellhousings - there are no engine mount supports or forward supports on it - the engine hangs just fine from a hard-mounted bellhousing:
Also, your run stand may be over-kill - you don't need a motor mount plate or any forward supports on the engine - you can simply hang it off a bellhousing so you have unlimited access to the bottom and sides of the engine. Here is a photo of my run stand - I've run BB Chevys and 455 Pontiacs on it by simply swapping bellhousings - there are no engine mount supports or forward supports on it - the engine hangs just fine from a hard-mounted bellhousing:
One word for you:
WOW!
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 10,362
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From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Valley AL
[QUOTE=lars;1567450053]That's correct - Run the engine on the run stand long enough to verify timing, valve adjustment and to correct any leaks, but get the engine in the chassis and hammer it with a load as soon as possible to seat the rings - running it too long with no load can "glaze" the cylinder walls and cause the rings to never seat.[QUOTE]
Thanks for the input guys. This is all I want the stand for. I build engines for a lot of people and it will make it much easier if I can run their engines before they pick them up. It will also be good to take to shows and swapmeets so potential buyers can hear an engine run before they buy it.
Thanks for the input guys. This is all I want the stand for. I build engines for a lot of people and it will make it much easier if I can run their engines before they pick them up. It will also be good to take to shows and swapmeets so potential buyers can hear an engine run before they buy it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Baltimore MD
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 200
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From: Whitmore Lake MI
That's correct - Run the engine on the run stand long enough to verify timing, valve adjustment and to correct any leaks, but get the engine in the chassis and hammer it with a load as soon as possible to seat the rings - running it too long with no load can "glaze" the cylinder walls and cause the rings to never seat.
Not to hijack this thread, but How long is too long?? Does that mean you can't break in a flat tapet cam on an engine stand since you're supposed to run the engine for 20 Min varying engine RPM??
Thanks,
Jeff
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,373
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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
I've run engines through the cam break-in period (about 20 minutes), plus the time needed to set timing, re-adjust hot lash, fix leaks, and set up the carb. Total run time on most of my engines ends up being about 45 minutes or-so before I go to the dyno or into the chassis for a few hard pulls on the rings. This has always worked well.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Whitmore Lake MI
I've run engines through the cam break-in period (about 20 minutes), plus the time needed to set timing, re-adjust hot lash, fix leaks, and set up the carb. Total run time on most of my engines ends up being about 45 minutes or-so before I go to the dyno or into the chassis for a few hard pulls on the rings. This has always worked well.
Thanks again,
Jeff
Terrorizing Orange Cones
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,572
Likes: 17
From: Northern CO
Years ago when I lived in DFW metro, I bought mine from a vendor's display at a local show. It has made life so much more convenient on initial cam break-in, tune and search for leaks.
This motor is ready to drop in the car and wire up to start for proper ring seating.
I have a large house fan to cool radiator if not running fan off the w-pump. Works fine for those 10-15 minute checks.
This motor is ready to drop in the car and wire up to start for proper ring seating.
I have a large house fan to cool radiator if not running fan off the w-pump. Works fine for those 10-15 minute checks.
Last edited by Dustup7T2; Oct 15, 2008 at 06:09 PM. Reason: edit photo
