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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 09:20 PM
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Default Tripower update

I have torn into the motor to investigate the carnage from the track. First and only pass with this car so far. I had to depend on it as a daily driver for a month or so. It will be a winter project due to finances.

Needs:
2-3 new pistons and rings
all new valves (culprit to begin with)
Sleeve
1 new Head (slight chance of economical repair)
gaskets

I did find several areas where I was leaving power on the table and can fine tune it on reassembly to get a few more hp.
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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 11:05 PM
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So, what was the initial problem? ...valve-to-piston contact?
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
So, what was the initial problem? ...valve-to-piston contact?
The intake valve broke at about 5000rpm. It appears that it was a tensile break at the transition point of the valve head to stem. The broken surface was pretty granular. It just dropped the head of the valve into the cylinder. The valves were from Howard's Cams brand11/32" with under cut stems.
I plan on going back with ferrea 11/32" straight stem competition valves. Thoughts?
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 08:24 AM
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Got any close up pics of the piston valve pockets...maybe some that aren't torn up too bad?


JIM
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
Got any close up pics of the piston valve pockets...maybe some that aren't torn up too bad?


JIM
There was only 1 valve that broke, #7. The mangled pieces ended up in the intake port of #2. The other pistons look clean but I will try for some picts.
-Scott
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 10:38 AM
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Hmmm... I would look very carefully to why the valve broke. One possibility is a lifter too tight in its bore. At high rpm it can stick hanging the valve open. Piston smacks it->carnage. Happened to an unfortunate forum member...
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by howarsc
There was only 1 valve that broke, #7. The mangled pieces ended up in the intake port of #2. The other pistons look clean but I will try for some picts.
-Scott
Alloy heads are easy to fix if the guy knows what he's doing. If you were in NorCal, there is no one better than Nichols and Sons in Sacramento. My 'Vair sucked a valve while on the track and beat the s**t out of the irreplaceable ported, big valve head, and when Arlen Nichols got done with it, I couldn't tell it had ever been damaged. While I was there, I saw a badly damaged Volkswagen GTI head that had a MASSIVE chunk missing from one chamber, and when I came back it was fixed like new. Really amazing work, just don't be in a hurry with them...

Hans
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 10:53 AM
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Update:
I have torn it down to the bare block. I found a couple more broken pieces to add to the list. I found one slightly bent connecting rod from the destroyed cylinder. And the porcelein from the sparkplug tip got into the intake then to a couple other cylinders and scratched up the cylinder walls. It will have to be bored 0.010", so I will be buying a new rotating assembly. The crank and all bearings at least were in wonderful shape. 0.070 over and 4.25" stroke would be a 498 I guess...
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 12:48 PM
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Have you deterimined the initial cause of the failure? Valves too close to pistons? Or something else...
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 03:21 PM
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There appears to be ~.080" clearance. Therewas no evidence of any contact in other cylinders or near contact (no rubbed carbon). It appears that the 11/32" with undercut valves just weren't strong enough. I am going with straight stem ferreas.
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 04:31 PM
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6000 series EV8's?
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
6000 series EV8's?
yup. Those are them. I dropped another valve several years ago, but it was a stock valve on heavier than stock springs, but still flat tappet. Similar carnage.

Last edited by howarsc; Nov 16, 2008 at 08:34 PM.
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