I replaced the master cylinder...the old one was deffinatly bad...I can tell a huge difference..to bench bleed it...(the instructions said) use the plugs in the box and depress the plunger no more than an inch until no more bubbles are visable...I did this waited a few hours and found a few more and waited another hour...repeat...repeat..and so on untill no more bubbles. I was vacume bleeding all of the brakes it was going pretty good...then I decided to have my wife pump the brakes for me and bleed them the old fashion way....well after about 15 minutes of that my RR caliper started leaking...

I'm going to search the formum...but any tips....(replace/rebuilt it obviously) where to get or which should I do.

:EDIT: I'm going the check Checkers...and then NAPA to see if they have replacements...and go from there

 

If that caliper started leaking brake fluid, then it was definitely sucking air the rest of the time. If you can determine where it was leaking...past a seal or through the casting....you can decide whether that caliper needs rebuilding or just replacement.

 

So the instructions said to install 2 "plugs"-not 2 fittings with hoses returning to the reservoir and bleed the cylinder that way?

 

If you are just trying to get it on the road so you can move, then replace the caliper with whatever they have at the local parts store.

When you do move, you should replace all the calipers. If one leaked, then the others are probably going to start leaking fairly soon.

 

Thats exactly what the instructions said when I replaced mine a few years back.

 

I found the calipers for $85 each...i'm going to replace the back as a pair...My rotors are rusted up...i'm going to clean them up since they are not gouged or anything...and while I'm at it...i'm going to pack the wheel bearings with fresh grease...

Thanks for all of the advice!

 

I went out today for the heck of it and bought a rebuilt master cylinder and read the directions and the directions are generic and talk about masters with more than 2 openings.
I'm not totally sure they are saying to use plugs on the Corvette cylinders.
I tried this way of bleeding the master using PLUGS.
I pumped forever and never could get all the air out of the rear cylinder.
I would highly recommend using the tube method.

 

Don't get me wrong, the tube method is much better, but the plug method worked for me.

Here's how I did the tube method on the new master.

 

On the knocking issue...you said the car was sitting since 2000, can we assume you changed the oil and filter before starting it up?

 

You know what they say about assuming...I did change the oil, filter, fuel filter, and check all the plugs before I started it...

What I assumed is all the peices were there...haha

I'm almost positive it is a timing issue......

I finally got my calipers off tonight..I'm going to get the new ones on tomorrow, get the car rolling (and stopping) so that I can get it out in to the drive way instead of choking out in the garage.

I just touched the Distributor and it moved...it is installed...but not bolted down...it is actually missing one of the peices that you bolt it down with....So yeah I'm pretty sure...and hoping that timing is my knock issue.

I should get it ironed out tomorrow...I'll post an update

 

If your knock is truly a hard, heavy knock, sounds like a spun rod bearing or bent con rod. But it could also be any of the above guesses. Also, there is the possibility of a broken piston. Rather uncommon on a stock, street motor, but no telling on an auction car what has had done to it. I had an Aurora that sucked a big gulp of water down the intake while crossing a major puddle during a downpour. And since you cannot compress water, it bent a rod. The car was totaled by my insurance company.

On your brake issue: Never rebuild or buy a reman master cylinder. They are too critical of a component to try and save a few bucks on. Go brand new! Always, always!!!! I have been fighting air in my '82 for nearly 5 months now. I have tried pumping, vacuum bleeding, and "wet" pressure bleeding. I replaced the m/c, both front calipers, all 4 flex lines, and still cannot get decent flow to the rears. I have just received a new brake porportioning valve that will be installed over Thanksgiving weekend. I have fabricated an adapter for the m/c, and will use my air compressor with 10-15psi to pressure the m/c. Monitoring the amount of fluid coming from the bleeders, I will be sure to not let the m/c run dry and have to start all over again. "Wet" pressure bleeding dumped many quarts of fluid on my firewall and driveway, and the dry system was an idea stolen from the Porsche 928 forum that I saw. Sounded great to me, if it will just work now. LOL! These C3's can be a real nightmere to bleed from what I have read on this wonderful forum, and in talks with other C3 owners.
Oh yes, almost forgot. Definitely bench bleed your m/c before installing. Instructions came with my new m/c from Advanced Auto Parts. That was the easiest part of the entire process.
Good luck on both issues, my friend. Let us know how you fair with your repairs and troubleshooting.
Andy

 

Thats the way to do it.
I think the problem with the plug way is when the air comes out of the front cylinder you can barely push the piston in to get the air out of the rear cyl..If I have time I will try filling only the rear cylinder and see if I can get all the air out of it before filling the front.

 

Can you expand on this dry system? I think your just going to put air pressure at the master but just didnt want to miss anything.

Sounds like you just have a bunch of trapped air.If you do a lot of pedal pumping the large air bubbles break up into lots of tiny bubbles(foam).Foam is he** to get out.Have you bled the combination valve? Since your going to replace it anyway,if you haven't already tried, try bleeding all the lines going into the valve.You can gravity bleed the combo valve just by loosening each fitting and letting air out.Tapping it with a small hammer will help.That is where I find air most of the time when I get cars in that other shops gave up on fixing.
Actually bled out a 76 today for another shop here in town.

 

I got my new calipers today!!!

one problem...the hard brake line that connects the flex line to the caliper is broke on the drivers side. I had to cut the line in order to get the stripped bolt off. It was completely stripped (before I touched it) on the caliper and pretty messed up on the connector to the flex line. It was a last resort (I even cut a slot in the closed end of my 3/8 wrench to try that first)

I tried Checkers and they didn't carry anything with with the exact fitting, so I went to the Chevy dealer and they said they can't get it either...

I'm looking online right now for a the peice of line... it just really bites because I wanted to get it rolling my monday....I was going to finish the brakes tonight, the timing tomorrow and drive it on sunday or monday....so much for hoping

 

Time to Close this one...in regards to the brakes that is...

Bad master cylinder...got brake pressue, blew rear calipers, front calipers were seized.

Replaced master cylinder...all four calipers fully loaded and Stainless Steel sleeved, rubber hoses since I was there, and the driver rear metal line.

I can stop now...and now the other issues have came into the light.